Pantry won't fit with toe kick

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I still don’t see why the back flange needs to be cut. Cut the bottom of the toe kick box to the right height and to adjust for any irregularities in the floor and mount it to the floor lift the pantry and slide it right into place and screw it to the wall and the cabinet next to it. You have to leave a small space at the top if it goes floor to ceiling. Don’t trust your ceilings are 96” right on the nose measure to see what you have. Then cut trim pieces and cover the exposed ends of toe kick.

Maybe your photos will show me the problem in the back.:)
 
I'm still not sure that HD is off the hook on this. If the 'specialist' hadn't considered this problem, he should readdress it. He can make sure the unit is not relying on that back lip, and then he can remove it for you.
 
I still don’t see why the back flange needs to be cut. Cut the bottom of the toe kick box to the right height and to adjust for any irregularities in the floor and mount it to the floor lift the pantry and slide it right into place and screw it to the wall and the cabinet next to it. You have to leave a small space at the top if it goes floor to ceiling. Don’t trust your ceilings are 96” right on the nose measure to see what you have. Then cut trim pieces and cover the exposed ends of toe kick.

Maybe your photos will show me the problem in the back.:)

You don't want to cut it because then it won't match the toe kick height of the other cabinets. It's probably a 4-1/2" toe kick plus the 3/4" lip. That's why it's 5-1/8". Gives you an 1/8" to spare for the top.
 
Here are some more pictures showing the bottom of the cabinet and the toe kick they provided.

I don't think there would be any issue cutting off the back lip so the pantry can slide onto the toe kick (box)

image1 (1).jpg

image2.jpg

image3.jpg

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I don't get what the problem is. Find a peice of anything that is 3/4" thick and fitting against the floor inside the lip. Then you have a flat bottom on the cupboard. Did you call the salesman? they should supply this spacer.
 
With all due respect. Why is this even still an issue for you? Why don't you just go back to HD and have someone, even if it's not the salesperson that handled your order, explain how it's supposed to be installed?
It's not like you're the first person to install one of these. If the person there can't answer your question then just camp there until they call the cabinet manufacturer for you.
 
That explains to me what I didn’t understand the box is sized to provide a toe kick in front but also on the side. For me that doesn’t sound correct. I was assuming the riser was just under the width of the pantry by the thickness of the beauty strip provided to hide the end of the riser.

Is it common to have a toe kick on the end? I think you got the wrong size riser with your pantry. I could be wrong. the floor of the pantry is not going to hold IMO if you mount it as you are showing with the back cut out. that floor is to take the weight of the items you place in the bottom only. Neal’s method is better if the piece you fit in gets secured to the sides.
 
Thanks for everyone's help! Home Depot wanted us to bring it back in and, since it's 8ft tall and about 200lbs, I was just looking for some other DIY options that would be easier.

It's a stand alone pantry not attached to any other cabinet so they claim the toe kick is correct. Guess we'll find out when we take it in. Thanks!
 
If it's the right base, which appears designed for a toe space on 3 sides, I would question if that 3/4" particle board base in the cabinet is going to support the weight of the cabinet plus the weight of all the material stored in it. I know some of the weight will be supported when you mount it to the wall.
Most base cabinets are supported by their back and side panels, not the bottom.
With your pictures, is there really a need to haul it back for them to look at?
 
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If it's the right base, which appears designed for a toe space on 3 sides, I would question if that 3/4" particle board base in the cabinet is going to support the weight of the cabinet plus the weight of all the material stored in it. I know some of the weight will be supported when you mount it to the wall.
Most base cabinets are supported by their back and side panels, not the bottom.
With your pictures, is there really a need to haul it back for them to look at?

If you do a search of HDs site you will find nothing like this is listed, so it is truely custom, and the saleman likely has never had one like this before.
The fact that he dosn't understand the problem sure explains why he didn't write on the order that the bottom has to be flush for the kick to go under it.
When you talk about the strength of particle board, is your concern is that it will bend or are you questioning its shear strength.
Again I ask, what is the easiest why and the cheapest way to make it flush on the bottom with out tampering with the strength of the cupboard?
 
The bottom shelf on the pantry looks like it is slotted into the sides, like a drawer bottom. I can't think of a scenario that I would let that support any weight beyond a sack of potatoes.

If the Op wouldn't mind telling us the brand of cabinet, I'd be curious enough to take a look at the demo cabinets next time I'm in HD
 
The bottom shelf on the pantry looks like it is slotted into the sides, like a drawer bottom. I can't think of a scenario that I would let that support any weight beyond a sack of potatoes.

If the Op wouldn't mind telling us the brand of cabinet, I'd be curious enough to take a look at the demo cabinets next time I'm in HD

That's pretty common construction,think of a fully loaded book shelf built out of the cheapest grade of this stuff.
 
Yeah, as I was writing that i was thinking of how thick the pieces could be. But I still doubt that it's a good support for the pantry on the box.....maybe if the weight is at the edges.
 
Yeah, as I was writing that i was thinking of how thick the pieces could be. But I still doubt that it's a good support for the pantry on the box.....maybe if the weight is at the edges.

Not sure how else you could build it and hide the floor behind finished gables and face frame.
Just for fun take a sheet of paper and place it on a bowl. Poke your finger down the center than ask yourself if this product could bend like that while it is trapped on a dato cut. Then if it can't bend like that you have think about shear strength, I'm thinking if the dato is 1/4 " you will run out of shelf space a long time before you get to critical weight.
 
Agreed. As a shelf, it could support all the weight that could fit on it. But as a floor for the entire pantry and it's contents? I know that's the basis for this whole thread, but as I looked at the construction in the last set of pix, and the size of the pedestal compared to the area (should say volume) of the pantry....well, I just had to comment. I'm also thinking of Ikea quality construction, and that may not be fair.
 
Ikea, would have the whole thing sitting on four adjustable legs. Cupboard would have same type of construction.
Four plastic legs are rated for 1000lbs and I found no ifs or buts about partical board
 
If you do a search of HDs site you will find nothing like this is listed, so it is truely custom, and the saleman likely has never had one like this before.
The fact that he dosn't understand the problem sure explains why he didn't write on the order that the bottom has to be flush for the kick to go under it.
When you talk about the strength of particle board, is your concern is that it will bend or are you questioning its shear strength.
Again I ask, what is the easiest why and the cheapest way to make it flush on the bottom with out tampering with the strength of the cupboard?


It wouldn't be on HDs site but rather on the cabinet makers site. If you look at Kraftmade, which is a brand they sell a lot of, it does tell you that the toe kick base is shipped separately on floor to ceiling cabinets.
I can't believe any kitchen cabinet salesperson hasn't sold these full height cabinets before....unless it was their first day on the job.
 
It wouldn't be on HDs site but rather on the cabinet makers site. If you look at Kraftmade, which is a brand they sell a lot of, it does tell you that the toe kick base is shipped separately on floor to ceiling cabinets.
I can't believe any kitchen cabinet salesperson hasn't sold these full height cabinets before....unless it was their first day on the job.

We are talking about a HD sales person, like I said he dosn't unserstand with out seeing it. There might be difference if the order was writtin for 96" or a cupboard to fit tight to ceiling which is 96"
 
I'm thinking the base piece gets trimmed down and then the cabinet is slid onto it and secured to the wall. There has to be a little gap between the top and ceiling as no house was ever built 100% square, plumb, nor straight. Perhaps a picture of the bottom of the cabinet?

That might help in seeing just what the issue is in the fit.
 
I'm thinking the base piece gets trimmed down and then the cabinet is slid onto it and secured to the wall. There has to be a little gap between the top and ceiling as no house was ever built 100% square, plumb, nor straight. Perhaps a picture of the bottom of the cabinet?

That might help in seeing just what the issue is in the fit.

It's all there at the start of the thread
 

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