Poor Anderson handle design. Fix?

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Tomottoe

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I have some Anderson French Doors and the door handle has always been a problem. The handles are attached on either side of the door via allen-head set screws to a metal bar. See pix. The problem is the set screws over time stop holding, and the handles start slipping and falling off regularly. It's very irritating and unfortunately the design of the rod does nothing to help, with the groove for the screw running all the way to the outer end. If I marked a "stop" position on the rod, would it be possible to weld in some material to fill in the groove from the stop to the end of the rod (third picture, red area)? (I'd have to find a local welder.)
I previously drilled into the original rod to create a better nest for the set screw, but this did not last and the second time I drilled, I compromised the strength of the bar and it broke.
thanks!
tom
 

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Hi Tomottoe,

The material of door hardware shafts is often what is commonly called "White Metal". White metals are very soft. Except for aluminum, white metals don't weld. They vaporize. (Some are brazeable, but carefully.)

Yours kind of looks like white metal. (And you mentioned that the nest did not last, indicating a very soft metal.) Perhaps JB Weld will help out. It is drillable and tapable.

If the set screws hold even for a short time, maybe try using a Thread Locking Compound on the threads to prevent the screw from backing out. This is what I did on one of our locksets that had screws that would not stay tight (brass plated white metal handle = poor threads in the hole).

Thread lockers come in various holding strengths. I suggest the Removable, such as Henkel's Loctite Blue.

But...
Note that such shafts are mainly in just a few sizes. You may be able to find a match at a local Lock and Key Shop for a dollar or two.

Let us know how the repair goes!
Paul
 

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This style of door hardware, mortised, an example of, has been employed in a variety of configurations, for at least a century.

When changing to a different, updated style, we'ed often reshape the bars in the form of drift punches.

While LOCKTITE will likely settle the difficulty, before LOCKTITE, we'ed simply bend a thread, just beneath the head of the screw, which restricted the gradual loosening, through use.
 
Can you rotate that inner shift 90⁰, to give you a smooth surface to work with? If so, drill a small indent for the set screw to lock into, then tighten up.
Come to think of it, I have the same patio door. I was able to cinch it tight using the hardened allens affixed to a 3/8ths socket. I can get it really tight using this.
 
thanks for all the input! I'll probably try simplest first: loc-tite plus hardened allen tightening. But if that fails, I like the idea of drilling set holes in the opposite face of the bar.
Cheers!
 
thanks for all the input! I'll probably try simplest first: loc-tite plus hardened allen tightening. But if that fails, I like the idea of drilling set holes in the opposite face of the bar.
Cheers!
If it's not too late, I'd suggest not hardened set screws. Hardened rust really quickly. Brass would be ideal with thread locker so that you don't have to over-torque.
 

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