recommended sockets for a 15 amp line

Discussion in 'Electrical and Wiring' started by drewdin, Mar 28, 2013.

  1. Mar 28, 2013 #1

    drewdin

    drewdin

    drewdin

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    I have a questions about the amont of sockets that can be installed for a 15 amp line, i know it's kind of a generic question as who knows what ill be plugging into those sockets.

    Is there a rule of thumb or is it install what you need and if there's an issue unplug some stuff? Thanks
     
  2. Mar 28, 2013 #2

    nealtw

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    It was up there like 10 or 12 lights and plugs. Now I think you seperate the lights from the plugs. You do want to figure where some of the more demanding things will be used. Portable heater, AC, vacumns, entertainment centers. 1800 watts is all you get.
     
  3. Mar 28, 2013 #3

    drewdin

    drewdin

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    I'm fitting my garage with lights and sockets, there will be pool stuff and a garage door opener. I know that will suck up most of the juice, Ill separate the other by sockets and lights.

    I have a 20 amp line to the garage at the moment, how can I calculate how much amperage i need to see if I need a 30 or 60 amp?

    Right now there is 1927 wires and switches all over and they stink. I plan on having about 7 sockets, four lights, pool filter, 3/4 hp garage door.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2013
  4. Mar 28, 2013 #4

    nealtw

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    These guys put out books that are a great for home owners, we can find them in every lumber yard except HD
    http://www.psknight.com/
     
  5. Mar 28, 2013 #5

    JoeD

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    Since you didn't post your location I will say in Canada you are limited by code to 12 outlets per circuit. An outlet is a light, receptacle, fan or any device that draws power. A switch is not an outlet.

    The NEC (USA) does not have a limit. Put as many as feel can be safely used on a circuit.
     
  6. Mar 28, 2013 #6

    drewdin

    drewdin

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    I'm in Boston MA, i'll adhere to your codes. Unlimited does not sound right, 12 seems enough.
     
  7. Mar 29, 2013 #7

    JoeD

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    It depends on what the potential uses of the receptacles are. Five might be too many if they are for an bedroom where a hair dryer might be used or window AC plugged in during the summer or an area where a bunch of power tools might be used. A general living area where only one or two are likely to be used for lamps could probably handle a lot more.
     
  8. Mar 29, 2013 #8

    Fireguy5674

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    I usually go fairly heavy in a garage where you have the potential for heavier loads. If you have a pool pump running, the lights on and you decide to run a saw as your wife opens or closes the garage door you are likely to pop a breaker or fuse. If you have the ability to run another circuit to the garage I would strongly suggest it. Or run a 30 amp or 50 amp to the garage and set a sub panel. If you do that you will need another ground rod or "equipment ground" for your sub panel. That will give you enough to handle your heavier loads potentially even a 220 welder if you have a need for that. Check your pool pump to see what it draws and determine what else you might want in the pool area.
     
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  9. Mar 29, 2013 #9

    drewdin

    drewdin

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    I have a pool but no pump yet, I guess Ill have to run a 6/3 line to the garage and a grounding rod.

    There was a special at granite city electric today, got 250ft of 14-2 for 50 bucks. I want to wire up the garage with as many sockets i could along with a few lights but I have to keep in mind that there is a garage door opener and pool pump.

    Its a detached garage with no heat so I don't plan on being spending many nights there but i would like it to be convenient if i do want to occasionally run some tools or a small TV.
     
  10. Mar 29, 2013 #10

    nealtw

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    Just having a panel in a detached garage is a big plus when you sell the house. Run one cercuit just for lights. One for the door opener. One dedecated single in the back corner incase you ever want a compresser or some such. You will have to research the pool to know what you need there. Put the rest in so that they are less than 12 ft. apart. If you have room in the box you could divide them up but one cercuit would work fine and maybe one outside.
     
  11. Mar 29, 2013 #11

    drewdin

    drewdin

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    thanks neal, I plan on doing that this weekend.
     
  12. Mar 30, 2013 #12

    Fireguy5674

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    Just remember as a rule of thumb if your wire length exceeds 100' up need to jump up to the next size wire. So depending on the distance between the house and garage you may need to upgrade your wire.
    Since this is a detached garage I would go minimum 60 amp sub panel with room for 6 to 8 breakers and run the conductors through PVC conduit, unless you have to cross the drive. Then you will need to go to Schedule 80 PVC or steel conduit under the drive.
     
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  13. Mar 30, 2013 #13

    drewdin

    drewdin

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    @fireguy, what do you recommend for cable for the run, its about 125' run. I put a 6 breker panel in today and i plan on running the wires next week.

    Right now there is the grey underground wire run to the garage, i think its 12 gauge.

    Also, what do you recommend for a ground in the garage, do I just drive a spike into the earth 6'? thanks
     
  14. Apr 1, 2013 #14

    Fireguy5674

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    According to the voltage drop calculator I used at this sight:

    http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm

    You need a #4 copper wire in conduit to supply a 240 volt, 60 amp line the 125' to your garage. You will need a 60 amp double pole breaker at you main panel. Then you will need three #4 copper wires 125' long and 125' of PVC conduit and fittings. I think you will probably want to use 1 1/2" conduit. You might get by will 1 1/4" but don't try to get it to snug, it is not worth the fight.

    For a ground you will need an 8 to 10 foot copper ground rod (check local requirements) with a #6 bare copper run from the sub panel to the ground rod and a ground clamp to attach the wire to the rod. Use 1/2" pvc conduit to protect your ground wire from the time it comes through the wall until it goes below the ground. To install a ground rod in my area the easiest way is to dig a 10 to 12 inch hole where you want to put the ground rod. Then pour 3 or 4 inches of water in the bottom of the hole. Push the ground rod into the ground as far as you can then pull it up and let the water run down the hole you just made. Push the rod in again as far as you can and remove it again. Repeat these steps and the rod will keep disappearing into the ground. After a couple of feet you do not need to remove the rod from the hole just keep working the rod up and down while keeping some water in your original hole. The entire length of an 8' rod should install in a few minutes. Set the top of your rod below the surface of the ground and bury the whole thing after your ground wire is hooked up.

    Good luck and let me know if something is unclear.
     
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  15. Apr 2, 2013 #15

    Fireguy5674

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    Oh, just to throw a few more decisions at you, I ran the calculations through for a 50 amp run. If you start adding up material costs and go "WOW!" you can drop to 50 amps and drop a wire size to a #6. That also means you can go to an 1 1/4" conduit. Your ground wire can go to a #8. Should lower your cost considerably if you choose to give up 10 amps.

    Food for thought.
     
  16. May 3, 2013 #16
    Code says 10 outlets I never go over 8 personally. I also make all the circuits I add 20 amp using #12 wire. Save problems down the road.
     
  17. May 3, 2013 #17

    speedy petey

    speedy petey

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    Unless you are in Canada please tell me what code says this?
     
  18. May 4, 2013 #18

    JoeD

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    Canadian code says 12 not 10 outlets.
     

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