Removing galvanized and going copper

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What is the WC acronym referring to? And the previous owner installed slate for a bathroom flooring!! Horrible! Eventually this will get gutted and remodeled.

I did a few of the punch through the floor system, but stopped because I became the A hole when people wanted to change their lavs, and my referrals suffered.

I now cut the drywall and cut the galv. below the elbow and remove the pipe from the bottom, feed the new through the same hole, solder the 90, compression angle stop and patch the drywall.
 
You can, depending upon how much you enjoyed your 1st trip under the house.

However you'll need to map your FJ (floor joist) near the WC so you can use a masonry bit and drill the slate from the top.
 
Spent about an hour under the house crawling and inspecting my situation....wow! Somebody ran about 20 ft of copper from a galvanized transition. It gets better. Instead of teeing off and running some copper over to the main bathroom it continues all the way over to the laundry room, which is slab and goes about 2 ft, tees off back under house and galvanized to the kitchen sink, 20 ft back to the main bathroom all galvanized! Ugh! Space is very limited where it enters house so that was my main concern. I have a plan and that's all that matters, I'm just glad I can access everything. The hot side appears to be all copper and the roll kind, some spots appear to be smaller than 1/2 near the fixtures so that will be another project. I did notice some pinholes that weren't spraying yet but moist around the rust and corrosion. Can't wait to remove all this crap and get some pictures for you all but I'm sure you've seen it all haha.
 
That's the Idea.

Whether you could find them or not, there are strait thru compression stops, instead of the angles, which require shorter braided connectors.
 
Nice, thank you...about $6 more. I'm fine with what I got but will definitely keep that in mind if I ever decide to change it. I'm really excited to get this done and see a change, can't wait.
 
Like I say, shop around.

Shark-bites are always more expensive. Check ACE, LOWE"S and home desperado.

I find walking in gives you a truer representation than some out of the area generalized web site.
 
You need to break the contact between the hanger and the copper to prevent electrolysis.
 
You will also need to use a bell escutcheons instead of the flat escutcheons shown in your picture
that way, your straight stop can be directly on the escutcheons and no copper will show, then use chromed supplies to hook up the faucets
and use a tubing bender

bell.jpg
 
nice solder job!!! it looks clean, I am impressed you wiped your joints:):thbup:

I do notice one thing, use a copper 2 hole strap on your pipe
they will stop your pipe from banging, the hangers you are using are not strapping the pipe down
I stopped using those years ago because of the banging

copper.jpg
 
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As far as removing the cabinet at a later date, LOl, it is NOT a problem. remove the stop and pick the cabinet up

simple and easy
 
Those hangers are actually temporary due to the fact the old galvanized is sitting a bit lower and not allowing me to push the pipe up against the joists. I plan on a final securing when I get that out of the way. They were holding it in place while soldering. Thanks Frodo! I have soldering experience since I was 14 but mainly on D.C. Electronics and worked at a manufacturing place where I did a lot of wire integration and terminating. Very limited copper sweating so I hope all is well with my joints. Flux and map gas and solder flowed great. I use to have more steady hands but all the coffee I drink makes me a little shaky haha. Are you talking about the horseshoe looking anchors but in copper?
 
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