replace doors and door casing

Discussion in 'Carpentry and Woodworking' started by shan2themax, May 18, 2008.

  1. May 18, 2008 #1

    shan2themax

    shan2themax

    shan2themax

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    AT some point this summer (July, August), I would like to replace the doors, doorcasings, baseboards and possibly add crown moulding.... I think that the baseboards wont be too bad... but... doors and door casings... I have looked on line for a tutorial, but I havent found any that I like or understood fully... so.. if anyone has any pointers, feel free to boss me around or point me in the direction I need to go... thanks in advance
     
  2. May 18, 2008 #2

    hondadrv24

    hondadrv24

    hondadrv24

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    Buy the pre-hung doors, use a level to install the casing, putting shims behind it in several places where you screw it to the 2x4s. Start with the hinge side, get it nice and plumb, then make the top level. Finish by making the lock side plumb. Its not too difficult to do. In my opinion the only door worth buying is a solid wood door, I hate the cheap hollow core doors. Good Luck
    Justin
     
  3. May 18, 2008 #3

    shan2themax

    shan2themax

    shan2themax

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    the cheap hollow ones are what I have now and I have had to take my staple gun to them multiple times to try to keep them together until I can replace them.... so... do I use a plumbbob to make sure they are plump or just a level?
     
  4. May 18, 2008 #4

    hondadrv24

    hondadrv24

    hondadrv24

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    Just a good 4' level
     
  5. May 18, 2008 #5
  6. May 18, 2008 #6

    inspectorD

    inspectorD

    inspectorD

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    You should take the door trim off, then get a feal for how the existing doors are installed.
    A good 4 foot level on the jamb side, nail it in...then do the other side.
    Make sure you check the floor first. You may need to cut some off one leg to get the top level and keep both sides of the jamb on the floor.
    Darylls links will help too.
     
  7. May 19, 2008 #7

    rachael24

    rachael24

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    I agree with Daryl's links...let us know how it turns out!
     
  8. May 19, 2008 #8

    Daryl in Nanoose

    Daryl in Nanoose

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    Something I just thought of, pull one out before you order them or at least the casings so you can ckeck the thickness of the wall and while its off check the height and width of the rough opening just in case there a werd size. Sometimes older sizes are not the same as todays.
     
  9. May 20, 2008 #9

    shan2themax

    shan2themax

    shan2themax

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    How convenient... my ex-husband took one off when he delivered the bearded dragon cage in December.... (and I havent bothered to do anything with it....) I will make sure I do all the things explained and then I will post when I do it.... (it will probably be july/august....) still have upper cabinets and a half bathroom plus one window.... lol
     
  10. Sep 20, 2008 #10

    mikemeier

    mikemeier

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    I agree with Daryl I always pull trim off of one side three weeks before I plan my project. It's the only acurate way to know the rough opening. Remember that the size listed on the new door is usually not what it actually is. i.e. 80 inches=79.5 somtimes. So, measure before you buy. If your house is older you sometimes have two choices either a straight and level door, or having the trim flush with the wall. If you can get it somewhere in between you're doing pretty good. If you wanted to read up on crown moulding there is a good book at home depot. It is light blue and always by the moulding. The angle measuring tools are very helpful as there is almost never a 90' corner.
     

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