Replacing 1975 Toilet

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum' started by akersr, Dec 19, 2016.

  1. Dec 19, 2016 #1

    akersr

    akersr

    akersr

    Established Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Likes Received:
    5
    This is what was under our 1975 toilet. left bolt is 10.50", right is is 10.75". Old toilet was big and set flush against the back wall. Wondering if I can get a 12" rough in to fit. Or should I just chisel this stuff out and start over with a 12" adapter flange? Not too experienced at this.

    [​IMG]

    IMG_3199.jpg

    IMG_3210.jpg

    IMG_3213.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
  2. Dec 20, 2016 #2

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

    Contractor retired

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2010
    Messages:
    23,892
    Likes Received:
    3,117
    I can not see your photo.
    If you have a wood floor you may be up against the position of the floor joist.
     
  3. Dec 20, 2016 #3

    akersr

    akersr

    akersr

    Established Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Likes Received:
    5
    It's concrete! Wondering of I should chisel this out, add flooring over the concrete to level it up with the existing laminate, install a new flange and order a 10" toilet, Would that be the easiest way to do this?
    Thanks,
    Scott

    IMG_3198.jpg

    IMG_3197.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
  4. Dec 20, 2016 #4

    johnjh2o

    johnjh2o

    johnjh2o

    Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2016
    Messages:
    30
    Likes Received:
    13
    The rough of a toilet is measured from the back wall to the center of the pipe not from the side wall.
     
    akersr likes this.
  5. Dec 20, 2016 #5

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

    Contractor retired

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2010
    Messages:
    23,892
    Likes Received:
    3,117
    The bolts are cut off after the toilet is installed and are meant to be replaced each time you lift the toilet. They are in slip slot in the flange.
    It is a common mistake for the plumber not to allow for the wall behind the toilet.
    I would dig it out if for nothing else to level the floor.
    Chip more from around the flange and see what you have.

    Toilet%20Rough%20In.jpg
     
    akersr likes this.
  6. Dec 20, 2016 #6

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    2,899
    Likes Received:
    506
    The trick is actually being able to find a WC that will match or slightly overlap the pattern of the existing WC.

    If you can, simply clean the toilet flange, replace the bolts, add a new wax ring and set the new WC.
     
    akersr and kok328 like this.
  7. Dec 20, 2016 #7

    akersr

    akersr

    akersr

    Established Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Likes Received:
    5
    Thanks Johnj20. The 10.5 " and 10.75" measurements are from the bolts to the back wall. My description along with the pic was confusing. The pic with the tape measure sideways probably made it even more so. I took that one to remind myself how narrow the space was when I went WC shopping.

    I'll start chipping away until I get to the flange and see what I find.

    Thanks for the drawings nealtw! Looks there's only 14" from sidewall to center in this space.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
  8. Dec 20, 2016 #8

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    2,899
    Likes Received:
    506
    What you may not find, "off the shelf", at the big boxes, is a 10" WC, but you can "special order" them, just be aware of the price, because you may be able to beat that at a plumbing supplier, off the shelf.

    And while you are at it, consider changing the angle stop to a 1/4 turn ball valve.

    The 30" is today's standard, which can be addressed in the pullman/vanity.

    If you are contemplating a built-up floor product there are flange extensions to address that as well.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
    akersr likes this.
  9. Dec 21, 2016 #9

    akersr

    akersr

    akersr

    Established Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Likes Received:
    5
    Here's what it looks like after chipping away this morning. I can't find where its attached to the slab or drainpipe. Its in solid and its tilted at an angle.
    The left side is just about flush with the floor and the right side is about half an inch below the existing floor. Do i knock it out somehow or use it as a base for a new flange like the one pictures which would be shimmed to level. If I knock it out I have to build the base up about an inch to reach floor level.

    IMG_3235.jpg

    IMG_3234.jpg

    IMG_3231.jpg

    IMG_3232.jpg

    IMG_3224.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2016
  10. Dec 21, 2016 #10

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

    Contractor retired

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2010
    Messages:
    23,892
    Likes Received:
    3,117
    I think that one fits inside a 4" pipe.
    Is your pipe cast iron or plastic?
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2016
  11. Dec 21, 2016 #11

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    2,899
    Likes Received:
    506
    Your existing flange is a lead oakum set and you can leave it, set the new bolts, add double wax rings and set the WC.
     
    akersr likes this.
  12. Dec 21, 2016 #12

    akersr

    akersr

    akersr

    Established Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Likes Received:
    5
    It's a soft metal, could it be lead? The flange pic is for a 3" pipe.
     
  13. Dec 21, 2016 #13

    akersr

    akersr

    akersr

    Established Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Likes Received:
    5
    I replied before seeing your post snoonyb. Thanks for the update on what I have. Can I use this flange even though it sits at an angle?
     
  14. Dec 21, 2016 #14

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

    Contractor retired

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2010
    Messages:
    23,892
    Likes Received:
    3,117
    akersr likes this.
  15. Dec 21, 2016 #15

    akersr

    akersr

    akersr

    Established Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Likes Received:
    5
    The old toilet was leaking from the bottom before we got rid of it. It was on its way out anyway as we weren't happy with the color. I'm guessing the wax ring was at fault.

    My next question is now that I've chiseled away all of the previous owner's "custom" height adjustment, will where the flange is seated now going to be too low in relationship to the floor height?

    The high side of the tilted flange sits just at floor height. The low side is 1/2" below floor height(see pics). Nealtw's drawings show the bottom of the flange at floor height.

    Sorry to have so many questions. When this toilet leaks it leaks through the wall into an adjacent sunken living room. Tired of moving bookcases and furniture.

    Snoonyb you were right. There are some 10" toilets in stock at a local plumbing supply house.

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2016
  16. Dec 21, 2016 #16

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

    Contractor retired

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2010
    Messages:
    23,892
    Likes Received:
    3,117
    The usual trick is to use a fat wax ring or two rings, there are companies that make spacers so you could raise it but being on an angle is another problem.

    I sent a link to one of those companies to see if they could suggest a fix.

    But with the toto toilet I posted earlier you get too mount the wax ring and can test the seal before you place the toilet, that might be a plus and the fact that it can be made to fit the ten inches.
     
    akersr likes this.
  17. Dec 21, 2016 #17

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    2,899
    Likes Received:
    506
    It appears that there was an "adjustment" made when the pour was done causing the closet bend to have been tilted, so the flange pictured may also set at an angle, affecting the seal. However it may not, so if you elect to use this style of flange, I'd set it a base of urethane construction adhesive, set the bolts and support the low side with a nut and washer and leave it alone for a couple of days until the urethane takes a set.
     
  18. Dec 23, 2016 #18

    akersr

    akersr

    akersr

    Established Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Likes Received:
    5
    Thank Ya'll....as we say it down here

    translation

    New toilet is in...and working. I learned a lot.

    4 trips to the store, 3 days a fretting, 2 wax rings, one 12 inch rough in toilet, and a partridge and a pair tree.

    Thank everyone who commented or shared a thought on this!!

    Very helpful.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2016
    slownsteady likes this.
  19. Dec 23, 2016 #19

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

    Contractor retired

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2010
    Messages:
    23,892
    Likes Received:
    3,117
    I think you would have got there on your own but you are more than welcome.
     
  20. Dec 23, 2016 #20

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    2,899
    Likes Received:
    506
    And the price was right.
     

Share This Page