Replacing bathroom fixture

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gschimma

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hi,
Replacing an original fixture in a 1997 home and found this. No junction box and a pipe less than an inch from the drywall. Also the end of other wire...

Not much experience with electrical work but it seems that for this to be done correctly I need to install a junction box and figure out what to do with the additional wiring, correct? Would an oldwork electrical box work? The new fixture isn’t more than 10 pounds.

Suggestions?
Thanks.
 

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Some bathroom fixture don't need a box. You need enough of that cut wire to reach into the box you may have to remove some dry wall to see what can be done.
 
You can use a VOM, Volt, Ohm Meter, to determine if there is voltage present on the romex still in the wall cavity, and if there is, can you pull at least 6" of slack.

You'll need 6" clear length for a "J" box for the switch leg if there is no voltage present on the other romex.

Placement of the new fixture and the size of the base/wall plate of that fixture, will determine what style of oldwork box will best fit.
 
If you determine the other wire to be dead you can install a pancake box on the wall surface for your new fixture. There is not enough room in a pancake box for two cables.
 
Thanks for replies. The extra cable is not live. My next problem...the previous light fixture was a long plate attached to the sheetrock with anchors and screws. The integrity of the sheetrock at the cutout isn’t great and I’m not confident it would hold the 12lb fixture. The replacement base is about 4 1/2 square, would fit perfect to a 4 inch round pancake box. There’s a stud just to the right of the existing hole. How do I connect the pancake box to the stud? Other suggestions? I was also thinking of building a small box to attach to the stud and screw the mounting bracket to that. I don’t want to a lot of sheetrock patching if I don’t have to. Thanks.
 
The only way I would do this is to open up that wall and reroute that vent line, the whole line does not need to be replaced.
Two cuts about 2' apart at least 2, 45's, two short pieces of pipe and 2, hubless connectors will do it.
I'd be trying to trace that other line and seeing if could be pulled out, at least strip it back and add wire nuts.
There's nothing wrong with abanding a wire like that but both ends need to be disconnected.
No one "wants" to have to do a drywall repair but sometimes it needs to be done.
It's no harder to fix a larger than need be hole you cut, but a royal pain if it's to small and you have no room to work and now have to cut it again.
Make clean straight cuts, cut along side of the studs and add 2 X 4's side of the opening for nailers for the sheetrock.
An ossilating saw work great for this job.
 
Here's a thought... how about making or having made a "decorative" wooden backing plate for behind the light. That would give you 1 1/4" to mount a box (front to pipe) and give you more the ability to glue/anchor the plate to support the light fixture. Much easier that moving the vent.
Just a thought...
 

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If the stud is to the left, can you put your fixture over the stud? Simple matter to patch the small drywall opening using the butterfly technique. Then there would be no need to move the pipe. Just screw right through the pancake box into the stud.
 
Plumbers use vent pipes to clean drains from the roof with a long snake, bends would prevent that. Vents are usually black ABS rather than schedule 4o.
 
Plumbers use vent pipes to clean drains from the roof with a long snake, bends would prevent that. Vents are usually black ABS rather than schedule 4o.
They seldom interchange ABS and PVC in the same house and which you use is mostly about where you live.
 
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