Replacing deck siding

Discussion in 'Roofing and Siding' started by daleslad, May 18, 2008.

  1. May 18, 2008 #1

    daleslad

    daleslad

    daleslad

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    Hi all, I am thinking about replacing the siding around the deck of a cabin with Hardie panels and would like to get some feel for what it entails.
    I haven't used it before so can it be cut and nailed just like regular wood or is predrilling required and do I need a special saw to cut it.
    Does it have to be painted .
    I have attached a photo showing the siding I'd like to replace. The cabin is at 7300 ft. so I would like something that will hold up to Mother nature .
    I'd welcome any suggestions for making it look better.
    Thanks

    DSC03141_2.jpg
     
  2. May 18, 2008 #2

    Daryl in Nanoose

    Daryl in Nanoose

    Daryl in Nanoose

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    I don't see any reason not to use Hardie but I am a cedar man I would match what's on the Cttage now just make sure there is suffient framing and while you have the old siding off check everything. A lot easier to fix problems now than later. You need a carbide blade and a good dust mask and use stainless steel nails.:)
     
  3. May 19, 2008 #3

    daleslad

    daleslad

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    Thanks Daryl, I appreciate your suggestions. What do you think about using screws instead of nails.
     
  4. May 19, 2008 #4

    Daryl in Nanoose

    Daryl in Nanoose

    Daryl in Nanoose

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    I guess you could but have never known anyone to go that route also I forgot to mention the hardi should be nailed 16" on center min.
     
  5. May 19, 2008 #5

    handyguys

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    Pre-dril? That would really slow things down and isn't necessary. Stainless or ACQ rated nails if nailing into newer PT framing or is specified by siding mfg.

    Yes, should be painted. I have heard of people staining it too. Could match existing pretty well.
     
  6. May 19, 2008 #6

    Daryl in Nanoose

    Daryl in Nanoose

    Daryl in Nanoose

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    I have been looking at your pics a little more carefully and I got to tell yah those railings just don't do justice to that nice looking cottage so question I have is
    Are you interested in changing them before you redo the siding? and is there a particular reason for the screen?
     
  7. May 21, 2008 #7

    daleslad

    daleslad

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    wow lots of great ideas fellas, I'd rather use nails than screws anyway,as for the railing I would like to do something with it but it's a Forest Service cabin and therein lies the rub.
    They are very strict about what modifications you can do to the outside of the cabin. Apparently they only allow the wire fence and it's a pain having to take it all down for the winter.
    I've only experienced this winter in the cabin and I was told by the previous owner that the snow could cause some damage to the deck if it was left up.
    It was originally held up with dozens of screws with washers and I would like to come up with another idea for holding the wire that can easily be removed and replaced.
    Any ideas would be welcome.
    BTW what thickness would be the best to use for the hardi ?
     
  8. May 21, 2008 #8

    Daryl in Nanoose

    Daryl in Nanoose

    Daryl in Nanoose

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    You could make a frame that's removeble that has the screen attached to it.
    Make a 1x4 frame sized to the opening less a 1/8" so it fits now cut the wire so its 1" bigger than your frame now bend the edges of the wire so theres a1/2" lip all around and attach it to your frame centered then take some 1x2 and frame it in on all sides so you have a finished looking frame on both sides. You could also do this with a 1x2 and 1x1 frame.
    Another way to do this is to sandwich the screen on some 1x2 flat and then frame it with 1x3.

    screenrail.JPG
     
  9. May 22, 2008 #9

    daleslad

    daleslad

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    Daryl thanks for the suggestions but could you elaborate a bit more on the framing. Are you just framing each end of the wire, you don't mean frame all 4 sides do you.
    How would you attach the 1x4 to each of the 4x4 posts so that it can easily be removed.
    The rails along the top of the posts come off for the winter so one idea I had was to screw and L shaped bracket at the top and bottom of the post on each side. Off set the bracket enough so the 4x1 could slide down behind them.
     
  10. May 24, 2008 #10

    Daryl in Nanoose

    Daryl in Nanoose

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    A couple of things. I thought you had 6x6 and didn't know the top came off. If you sandwich the screen with 1x2 all around the outside edge of the screen add 1x1 to the post you can pop the top and slide the panel in and put the top back on.
     
  11. May 24, 2008 #11

    daleslad

    daleslad

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    That would work Daryl, now that you mention the size I'm not sure just what they are but looking at the photo they look like maybe they are 4x6's but either way your suggestion will work.
    Thanks
     
  12. May 25, 2008 #12

    daleslad

    daleslad

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    Thanks roofer another great idea.
    Could you explain to me what you mean by 4-7 in. exposure ?
     
  13. Jun 2, 2008 #13

    daleslad

    daleslad

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    Thanks TRG I'll remember that.
    Are you referring to the size of the design of the panel when you say 4 - 7 inch exposure ?
     
  14. Jun 13, 2008 #14

    daleslad

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    Daryl I just found out that I was mislead about the deck railings having to have the wire so I'm open to any suggestions for improving the look of the cabin.
    Bearing in mind that the fence would still have to be removable due to the heavy snow damage caused by the snow moving off the roof onto the deck.
     
  15. Jun 13, 2008 #15

    inspectorD

    inspectorD

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    You could make any railings you want to.I would use some 4x4 posts as the anchor points, and build some rails to fit in-between. Just buy some brackets to hold and remove as you need to change the season.
    They sell em, just make sure they will be safe.
    Sounds good, have fun up there.:D
     
  16. Jun 13, 2008 #16

    daleslad

    daleslad

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    Thanks, that would work ok
     
  17. Jun 14, 2008 #17

    Daryl in Nanoose

    Daryl in Nanoose

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    As mentioned you can do what ever you like, lots of options here. A system I used on a cedar pavillion was I installed a 1x2 to the inside of the posts even with the outside surface then installed a removable panel and then screwed a 1x2 against the panel. I used washers behind the screw heads so they would not have any problem getting them out. On a railing system I would attach a 2x? from post to post at the bottom with a space ( no more than 4 inches) with a block at half way point. As far as the panel goes whatever you like with no more than a 4" space in between the spindels unless of course you use tempered glass.

    deck.JPG
     
  18. Jun 14, 2008 #18

    daleslad

    daleslad

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    Thanks Daryl, that is kind of what I had in mind, although I was thinking that instead of having a permanent bottom rail just put some kind of block at the bottom of each post for the bottom rail of the panel to rest on.
    Also was thinking of doing the same thing for the top of the panel and then adding the some kind of spindles. I'd like to make it easy to see through so as not to block the view. I've seen a lot of cabins with painted rebar for the spindles and they look pretty good.
    I never thought of tempered glass is that very expensive, although that might be a bit harder to store safely in the winter. I'm short on storage space unfortunately ,
    Not sure of the best way to attach the top 2x4 on the panel to the posts.
    I'm curious Daryl, what program are you using to draw your designs.
    I used to use Adobe Pagemaker years ago and loved it but they discontinued it and I haven't found a substitute that I like yet.
     
  19. Jun 15, 2008 #19

    Daryl in Nanoose

    Daryl in Nanoose

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    I use Microsoft Paint for quick skething. Tempered glass is exspensive unless you have a recycle store around and they can be a pain to store. Your blocks at the bottom sounds good but here is one idea.

    deck.JPG
     
  20. Jun 15, 2008 #20

    daleslad

    daleslad

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    Thanks Daryl, that will work I can take off the top rail and lift out the panel for storage in the winter time, or if it is too heavy to lift straight up I can remove the 1x2 moulding from the front of it.
     

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