Replacing exterior doors with rotted sills

House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
You know when you talk and people just nod their head?

That doesn't mean they understand a thing you're saying.

They are just saying to themselves...

"Wow... I found Him... It's Kamala Harris' Teacher"...
 
And yet, you chose to absorb and implement.

My DIL'S sister donated these, for my upcoming urology app.
 

Attachments

  • KAMALA-LA-LA - 1.jpeg
    KAMALA-LA-LA - 1.jpeg
    1.9 MB
  • KAMALA-LA-LA-2 - 1.jpeg
    KAMALA-LA-LA-2 - 1.jpeg
    2.1 MB
1727313202189.png1727313220297.png
Slightly on topic again, does anyone know the name of the moulding that goes at the to of the door? I know casing is one term, but I'm specifically looking for the top decorative moulding piece term.
Something that looks like this:
1727313319126.png
 
Image search showed it to be called crosshead moulding or something. But I saw the prices on it. Yeesh.
So, new plan is to just use some PVC 1x6s (5/8"x5.5") and just overlap the J-trim on the sides and use PVC 1x4 (which I already have) over the door and then use some aluminium door cap over the top trim. The 1x4 is actually more 3/4 so it will be proud of the side trim but I don't care. I don't want to have trim too tall since I still need to fit the light and an awning up there. Gonna be fun figuring out where awning will sit.

I'll just cut the boards to size, prime & paint them, and pop them on with my brad nailer., fill in, and touch up paint. Will have to see what I can fit under the door sill to cover the gap.
 
The Dif. between 3/4 X 5-12 pvc and the RB03, is only about $14 @ home desperado.
 
I'm struggling to find the right sized exterior trim to either replace the brickmould or to bridge the gap between brickmould and J-trim. Need either 2" or 4" and am not finding either. And I mean actual 2" or 4", not nominal. I'd prefer pvc but might be able to do vinyl.

I was looking at some brick mold for a window repair I need to do. This is from Lowes

1727394720163.png
Hoping I can hide the underside of the sill with a landing if/when I build one. I wonder if I can build a cinderblock landing and fill in the blocks with dirt or quikrete and then add railing and steps. Or maybe it would be easier to build it out of wood. I found some composite deck boards I like but they are over $30 per board. If I get nominal 6" wide ones I would need about 11 or so to make the landing the size I want. I think...
 
In order to cover the gap between brickmould and J-trim I'd need 2" on the sides. I'd need more on the bottom. On the top I can get away with something smaller. I'm probably just going to go wider and overlap the J-trim on the sides. Do 1x6s there and on the bottom and then do the 1x4 on top. I've already got one 1x4 in PVC and I have at least one 1x6 already. I just have to prime and paint it. I should go look and see if I have one down in the workshop.

Neal, who used to post here, said that I shouldn't need flashing above the door because the eaves are so close and hang over so much.
 
You could also hang a tarp.Flashings are simply good building practice, never exclude them.
 
You could also hang a tarp.Flashings are simply good building practice, never exclude them.
I'm trying to figure out how to put the flashing on if it goes over the bottom of some of the vinyl sheet and the J-trim. I don't want to have to cut the vinyl siding away or redo the J-trim.

I still need to measure and put up the awning. Not sure if that is next or if I want to do other stuff first. I need to find the pancake box I got for outside and get that old light removed & new one put up.
 
Frankly, it doesn't appear that there was ever flashing placed there, so, I'd loosen the wrap, slip the flashing under the wrap and over the nailing rail of the "J" trim.
 
Frankly, it doesn't appear that there was ever flashing placed there, so, I'd loosen the wrap, slip the flashing under the wrap and over the nailing rail of the "J" trim.
The issue is that I want to put some sort of top moulding up there that might end up covering the J-trim and I want to have the z flashing go over the top trim piece. But maybe I can rip a PVC board down to fit under the J-trim and under the z-flashing.

You are correct that there was no flashing done around doors and windows. They also put the vinyl siding over the old whatever kind of siding that was that looked like it might be asbestos. I understand why they didn't want to pull it if it was asbestos. When we moved in we had aluminium siding but it got messed up by a hurricane and we had it removed and replaced with vinyl. Same contractors also put the metal roof on-- probably over the old asphalt shingles.

I'll figure something out for the trim.
 
Hmm. I suppose I could remove the top piece of J-trim and then trim the vinyl to go over the Z-bar and try to tuck the house wrap and flashing over the Z-bar if possible. I wonder if its even necessary since I will have an awning over that area as well. Still need to measure for that.
 
The inevitability about awnings is, were they are caulked, at the attachment, the caulk will fail and then there is a leak.
 
It will still be under the eaves. The eaves come out about 2ft and the awning comes out 40"- although I might build a frame to make it stick out more. I still do want to try to get the door cap on over the top piece of trim. I'll have to see how a 1x4 would fit over the top there and use my vinyl siding tool to unhook some siding to get the door cap under the J-trim-- or remove J-trim if it doesn't seem necessary. Will have to see.
 
Back
Top