Replacing header or leave in when re-framing wall

Discussion in 'Framing and Foundation' started by dutchbuild, Jun 2, 2013.

  1. Jun 2, 2013 #1

    dutchbuild

    dutchbuild

    dutchbuild

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    Hi All,

    This is my first post here, so feel free to redirect if this is not the right place. This question could fit into the walls and ceiling forum also, but since it concerns the framing of the wall I figured this may be better. We just bought a house, so I'll have more questions in the future, I'm sure:).

    I took out a small protrusion (by lack of a better word) of the kitchen were originally the fridge was put in. The idea is to put the wall back in its original configuration so that I can reclaim the garage space (was extending into the garage). However, of course in the kitchen wall, the 2x4s were cut and a header put in to allow the add-on to the kitchen. I need to re-frame it before putting sheet rock back on. So can I just leave the header in and but 2x4s under it at the same location the 2x4s above the header? Or should I take out the header out and replace the cut 2x4s by new full length 2x4s?

    Thanks for any input!

    frame2.jpg
     
  2. Jun 2, 2013 #2

    WindowsonWashington

    WindowsonWashington

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    Is that knob and tube wiring?

    Are you calling that 2x4 laid flat a header?
     
  3. Jun 2, 2013 #3

    dutchbuild

    dutchbuild

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    Not sure if your questions are rhetorical, but in any case, yes that's knob and tube wiring. And yes, since that beam (it's not a 2x4) laid flat was presumably put in to function as a header, I was referring to it as a header.

    Whether or not it is a 'real' header is not relevant at this point since it will not function as a header anymore. This is just how I found it.

    Any advise on how to move forward?
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2013
  4. Jun 2, 2013 #4

    Blue Jay

    Blue Jay

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    I would just leave the "header" in place and install 2/4's below the upper ones.
    My first project would be to replace the wiring and bring it up to spec. I can only imagine what your insurance company's reaction to the knob and tube wiring would be.
     
  5. Jun 3, 2013 #5

    CallMeVilla

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    YES, you can replace the stud wall without removing the header they installed. Best practice would be to install new studs directly below (vertically in-line with) the old ones. If you want to get anal about it, you could install horizontal blocks to add lateral rigidity.

    As for the K&T wiring ... get rid of it! :D
     
  6. Jun 3, 2013 #6

    JoeD

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    Definitely needs to be restructured. The studs that were cut out were supporting the floor above. I'm not sure that 2x6 nailed on is doing a proper job of supporting the floor.
     
  7. Jun 3, 2013 #7

    dutchbuild

    dutchbuild

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    Thanks guys! That's what I'll do then.

    As to the k+t wiring. Yes, I understand it's not great. We have replaced the fuse box by breakers and had an electrician look at the wiring. His take was that since the insulation on the wires is still very good good (not brittle) it was not an immediate issue (was installed in 60s). But yes, will definitely add it to the (long) project list and will get to it at some point.

    Thanks again for the input! Much appreciated.
     
  8. Jun 3, 2013 #8

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    The 2x4 nailed to the studs under the joists is the only thing close to a header, Support the floor above before restructuring this wall. Get a couple more opinions on the k&t wiring.
     
  9. Jun 3, 2013 #9

    dutchbuild

    dutchbuild

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    Thanks for the advise Neal. This is a single story building so the wall just supports the (flat) roof.

    Yes, I'll get some other opinions on the K&T. My biggest concern is that insulating the exterior walls does not seem possible with this archaic installation. I was thinking to replace it anywhere I am replacing sheet rock anyway (which will eventually be pretty much everywhere) and just go step by step that way. Good idea?






     
  10. Jun 3, 2013 #10

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    If you don't change the wiring now I would still plan a head for it in pull in the peices of new wire while it's open so you don't have to rip down this new drywall later.
     
  11. Jun 3, 2013 #11

    WindowsonWashington

    WindowsonWashington

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    This is my feeling too.

    While it is not carrying a huge weight in the flat roof above, I would go ahead and re-structure the opening.

    I wasn't trying to be funny before its just that there are a couple of headers in that picture.
     

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