Replacing shutoff

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum' started by JeremyB, Jun 30, 2012.

  1. Jun 30, 2012 #1

    JeremyB

    JeremyB

    JeremyB

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    Hi Fellas,

    I am going to have to replace my outdoor faucet as it has been leaking lately and also want to replace the shutoff to it in the basement as it's looking rough also.

    While Im sure I can run the new faucet through the wall after removing the old one pretty easy I am stumped as to how I can replace the shutoff valve? I want to use a ball valve instead of the old style compression one that is already. Is this a easy job to do?

    But what stumps me as how do you solder copper pipe into a ball valve? or does it somehow crimp down onto the pipe? is that what a sharkbite ( I think thats what there called ?) does?

    any tips would be great

    Jeremy
     
  2. Jun 30, 2012 #2

    oldognewtrick

    oldognewtrick

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    Jeremy, just shut down the entire house and get all the water you can out of the line. Sweat on a new shut off valve (you can get one with a solder fitting end) and make sure the valve is in the open position when you solder it. I just did mine a couple weeks ago, easy job to do on a hot Saturday.
     
  3. Jun 30, 2012 #3

    JeremyB

    JeremyB

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    Cheers oldog new trick,

    would you have a link to what they look like
     
  4. Jun 30, 2012 #4

    oldognewtrick

    oldognewtrick

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    The end of the valve has a sleeve to allow the pipe to be seated and soldered. It will be mooth as opposed to a threaded end. I do not have a link.
     
  5. Jun 30, 2012 #5

    JeremyB

    JeremyB

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    Thats what I though oldog :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2012
  6. Jun 30, 2012 #6

    JeremyB

    JeremyB

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    Also Oldog,

    what are these sharkbites ball valves I see? I read that nothing has to be soldered? how do they work?

    Jeremy
     
  7. Jun 30, 2012 #7

    kok328

    kok328

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  8. Jun 30, 2012 #8

    JeremyB

    JeremyB

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    Cheers Kok328,

    Went to the hardware store to get the parts. I just have one last question for you guys. I will have to dothe soldering in a area that is somewhat close to a floor joist, how can I safely solder around it so I dont burn my house down? :p

    Can you just spray the area down with water from a spray bottle to keep the area wet? or do they make something that can be placed there somehow to act as a fire barrier? maybe take my autographed michael andretti racing gloves at stick them there,lol.... well maybe not.

    Anyways I will still keep a fire extinguiser and a bucket of water beside me:rolleyes:
     
  9. Jul 1, 2012 #9

    kok328

    kok328

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    Last edited: Jul 1, 2012
  10. Jul 2, 2012 #10

    BridgeMan

    BridgeMan

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    Use the smaller of the 2 tips that most propone soldering torches come with. I've always just sprayed down any nearby combustibles with water, and never burned anything down yet. Don't forget the flux, after rubbing all contact points squeaky clean with steel wool.
     
  11. Jul 2, 2012 #11

    CallMeVilla

    CallMeVilla

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    Lots of good advice here for you. Don't mean to insult you if this gets too basic . . . Hard to tell your experience level . . . Getting the old pipe "copery clean" is essential. Also, buy the best grade of flux you can find. Cheap flux is all but worthless. Use a fresh brush.

    Remember to heat where you want the solder to "go" . . . it follows heat. Get all around the valve, not just where you can see. DO NOT overfill the top of the valve so you do not run solder down into the ball. Use just enough to get a good seal.

    Sweating copper is about the feel as much as technique. Here is a YouTube location you can review in advance: [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CH5Uy8Uf1xs[/ame]
     
  12. Jul 2, 2012 #12

    JeremyB

    JeremyB

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    Cheers for the tips and video guys
     

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