Replacing Table Saw Blade

Discussion in 'Tools' started by jmc0319, Jan 10, 2013.

  1. Jan 10, 2013 #1

    jmc0319

    jmc0319

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    Today I went to change the blade on my Table Saw only to find out that I lost the wrenches. Any idea where I can get new ones or if they have to be the same manufacturers wrenches?
     
  2. Jan 11, 2013 #2

    nealtw

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    Who ever sells that brand will be able to get them for you. Tie strings on them and attach them to the saw. You know you will order them weight to long for them pay to much for them and find the old ones.
     
  3. Jan 11, 2013 #3

    JoeD

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    You can't just use an adjustable wrench?
     
  4. Jan 11, 2013 #4

    nealtw

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    Some of them just have a slot in the inside, so only that skinny wrench fits.
    Sometimes you can grab the blade with vicegrips and let the table hold that for you.
     
  5. Jan 11, 2013 #5

    Wuzzat?

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    Allen wrenches? Metric or English? Torx?
     
  6. Jan 11, 2013 #6

    jmc0319

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    Well luckily I dug a little deeper in an old tool box and found the original wrenches. Thanks for the suggestions. I tried many different things but nothing fit right or worked.
     
  7. Jan 11, 2013 #7

    nealtw

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    Wuzzat: the're just open end wrenches cut out 1/8 steel so the fit in the slot.
     
  8. Jan 11, 2013 #8

    Wuzzat?

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    For my Makita I have those flat wrenches plus Allens for the blade guard, plus you need a Phillips. I keep them all in a soup can fastened to the saw with #12 AWG.
     
  9. Jan 11, 2013 #9

    jmc0319

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    Good idea thanks Wuzzat
     
  10. Jan 11, 2013 #10

    jmc0319

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    Got the blade off. Next question is "Any suggestions for a new blade?" I use it for general home projects.
     
  11. Jan 12, 2013 #11

    elbo

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    dont ever use visegrips on a saw blade It's a gauranteed way to ruin a blade and dangerous to boot. You stand a good chance of twisting the blade just enough to cause it to vibrate when running, not to mention thr v'grips slipping and dulling or knocking off a tooth. A better way is to wedge a piece of wood between the blade and tablesaw that the blade won't turn. They also make a blade holder that will do it safer than either method.
     
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  12. Jan 12, 2013 #12

    Wuzzat?

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    Some blades have a hole in them so you can pass a screwdriver shaft through to prevent the blade from turning.
     
  13. Jan 14, 2013 #13

    jmc0319

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    See below. Any suggestions for a new table saw blade?
     
  14. Jan 15, 2013 #14

    JoeD

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    I just take a scrap of wood and jam it against the blade teeth and the end of the throat.
     
  15. Jan 18, 2013 #15

    BridgeMan

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    Only you can answer that question. It depends on what type of material you will be cutting. Lots of high-end cabinet plywood cutting would dictate a quality plywood blade with lots of teeth. Doing mostly ripping of solid stock calls for a ripping blade. If it's just mostly cross-cutting of miscellaneous wood, get a decent combination (carbide-tipped) blade. Around here they range from $9 (cheapo Chinese) to more than $75 for a quality 10-inch, made in the USA. I recently paid $13 for a generic combination from a local big box that comes with a life-time replacement policy--just bring back the old beat-up blade, and they'll give me a new one. I like it! Especially since I spent $25 last year to have a high-end, carbide-tipped 10-inch sharpened (including having 2 teeth replaced).
     
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  16. Jan 29, 2013 #16

    rander

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    I know I'm late to the issue posted but I just came up on this posting and thought I'd share a trick learned from a friend who has a shop full of power tools. Get a few small rare earth magnets and use them to attach the wrenches and small tools for a specific tool to the machime. Find an out of the way spot to put a magnet on the machine then put the wrench or whatever on the magnet. A big wrench may need two. Those little magnets are powerful and really hold tight. It keeps the tool with the machine and saves a lot of hunting.
     
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  17. Jan 30, 2013 #17

    dthornton

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    I like "Diablo" saw blades. They work well and last a pretty long time. For a general, all-purpose blade, go for what they refer to as a "combination". If you're cutting furniture grade wood, or thin stuff, or need a smooth edge, get a blade with more teeth. If you just want to rip through some 2X's, get a blade with fewer, but larger teeth. Larger teeth take bigger "bites" so they cut faster, but they also leave jagged edges (not an issue for stuff like framing). Smaller, more numerous teeth cut much slower (you don't want this if you're cutting a lot of framing or some 3/4" plywood, etc) but they also leave a smoother edge. Great if you're building cabinets or furniture. Now that you found your wrenches and can change blades easily, why not buy a set of 3 blades - one course, one combination, and one fine tooth? Then you'll be set for most general wood cutting you may want to do. ((For cutting anything other than wood, you'll need specialty blades, such as diamond grit. As at the place you purchase your blades))
     
  18. Jan 30, 2013 #18

    dthornton

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    Sorry BridgeMan - I just saw your answer, and I said pretty much the same thing. Don't forget the safety glasses!
     
  19. Jun 10, 2013 #19

    Thomas529

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    I use my tablesaw a lot. I love the Forrest blades.
     
  20. Jun 10, 2013 #20

    CallMeVilla

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