Rewiring House DIY Info

Discussion in 'Electrical and Wiring' started by Joelkbish, Oct 27, 2019.

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  1. Nov 11, 2019 #21

    Eddie_T

    Eddie_T

    Eddie_T

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    I used 12AWG just to cut voltage drop as some runs were 60 feet. I thought about ring feeding using 2 breakers but couldn't decipher the code to determine if it was legal.
     
  2. Nov 12, 2019 #22

    afjes_2016

    afjes_2016

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    Voltage drop really does not come into play until about 100 feet. Many times also in a home using a sub panel in an area far from the main panel will reduce the possible need of figuring voltage drop; that's the handy dandy reason for the sub panels :)

    May I please ask what "ring feeding" means? It may be an old "trade term" that I have not heard of.
     
  3. Nov 12, 2019 #23

    JoeD

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    The term ring circuit is more common in UK. It is a circuit that is fed from both ends in a loop or ring. I do not think they are permitted here.
     
  4. Nov 12, 2019 #24

    Eddie_T

    Eddie_T

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    I'll give an example of voltage drop. I rented a Levitt home in Bowie, MD which was wired with 12AWG aluminum. The wiring approach was cleverly designed to save wire so layout in a Cape Cod home wasn't immediately obvious to the resident.

    I was watching TV and the picture shrank in from the edges periodically. Puzzled I found the breaker got out my VOM and found all the receptacles on that branch. It turned out that my wife had left the iron on in a BR which was cycling and affecting the TV in the LR on the same circuit.

    My brother down the street had a similar problem, when he started his table saw the fluorescent lights in his garage started flickering. So when I wired my house all receptacles are on 12AWG copper branches and the garage receptacles are on 10AWG copper and I have never experienced a problem.

    I didn't realize that my receptacles were 15A until one that I was using for a quartz heater failed. The heater was 1500W but the receptacle got hot enough to affect the tension of the contacts over time. I replaced it with a 20A receptacle.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2019
  5. Nov 12, 2019 #25

    ShellbackBill

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    Just use 12 gauge and 20 amp parts.
    If you are doing the work yourself, the added cost is minimal.
    There is no downside other than cost to doing this.

    Unless you house is HUGE and has very long wire runs you are good.
     
  6. Nov 20, 2019 #26

    Jeff Handy

    Jeff Handy

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  7. Nov 20, 2019 #27

    Jeff Handy

    Jeff Handy

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    A 20 amp appliance has a plug with the prongs in a different layout, so it will not be able to be inserted into a 15 amp receptacle.
    Unless someone changes the plug.

    20 amp household appliances are not as common as years ago.
    Motors are more efficient, for one thing

    But back then, things like waffle irons or other devices that generated lots of heat sometimes needed a 20 amp circuit and outlet.

    Elsewhere in the house, many circuits that power something with a big motor are required to have 20 amp capacity, because the motor draws higher current when starting up.
    Sump pumps, sewage pumps, whole house vacuum, some furnaces, etc.

    And electric heaters like for a garage, or circuits to a workshop for big power tools.
     
  8. Nov 20, 2019 #28

    Jeff Handy

    Jeff Handy

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    That ring feeding type of wiring is commonly used in 12 volt dc landscape lighting layouts.

    So the farthest fixture does not get starved for voltage.

    Although that is less of a problem now, with LED lights taking over from halogen.
     
  9. Nov 21, 2019 #29

    Eddie_T

    Eddie_T

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    Thanks Jeff, I was incorrect in stating that I replaced a failed 15A receptacle with a 20A receptacle. It turns out that I just replaced a 59¢ 15A receptacle with a higher quality 15A receptacle. It's good to know that the use of 15A receptacles is not a problem.
     

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