Question for roof and wall sheathing.. 1. When we put plywood or osb(we are not sure what we will use?) on roof rafter..what nails we should use ...should we use 8d vinyl coated sinkers or just 8d bright common ? which is preferable out of two and 8d is good enough for it? or we should use 16d? 2. we are putting t1-11 for siding what type of nails we should use for this? we were told galvanized 8d spirals or ring shank is that correct? or we should use 8d vinyl coated sinkers? 3. What size and type of nails we should use when we put felt paper and roll roofing over this low slope flat roof?

http://www.bostitch.com/default.asp...CT&PARTNUMBER=N80CB&SDesc=Coil+Framing+Nailer If your building a house I would suggest you invest in a nail gun and a small compresser. 2 1/4" nails spirel is what we use on roof and wall for sheeting and I would suggest osb for the roof, not a slippery as plywood.

Vikasinti, I like to use the 8d CC coated nails as they have a little bit of "glue" coating which helps hold them in the wood. For the T-111 siding you would be better using the galvanized nail as the head exposed to weather will rust on the regular nail and streak down the siding. It would be best to use a stainless steel nail, but they are expensive. The felt paper you can use staples to hold it down until the finished roof is applied. You want to use a galv roofing nail long enough to penetrate the plywood surface. Typically use 1-1/4" for 1/2" plywood. I like to use 1-1/2 as they are easier to hold with my old stiff fingers. Follow the roll roofing manufacture's recommendations on the overlapping of seams to prevent water penetration with a low pitch roof. Good luck, Jim

I have a difficult question now... City says the height should not be more than 10 feet from bottom to roof pitch. Since I used concrete blocks I already used 1 feet just to build the floor. Now if I use 8 feet stud for wall that will be total 9 feet plus when I put top plate and bottom plate that would be another 3 inches total ...now it becomes 9 feet 3 inches now we put rafter which will be another 3 and half inches so total becomes 9 feet and 6.5 inches. also I have to put half inch board under the metal roofing for additional support instead just putting roofing panels directly on rafters. so now it comes to 9 feet and 7 inches....I only have 5 inches to reach max. allowed height without permit for shed which is 10 feet.. my shed width is 8 feet but am having 12 feet metal panel for roofing ...so I can have 2 feet over hang on each side.... question is... is there any formula using which I can measure what will be root pitch before I build walls?

There is a few details you havn't givin us to help you. To start with you would buy pre cut studs which will give you a wall height of 97" unless you want less, then you could buy the 8 footers and cut them. Are you planning on a peaked in the middle roof or a sloped to one side roof? The panels that you plan on using will have a required pitch and we need to know what that is. And then we would need to know how wide the shed is. Just for example, say your shed is 120" wide and you have a peaked roof and your roofing needs a 4/12 pitch The peak would be 60" from the side. So 60/12= 5 x 4 = 20"at the peak So you would have 120" in height minus 20" for the pitch and 4" for for rafters and sheeting and 12" for the floor, so your wall is now 84" tall with 79 1/2" studs. You will gain an inch back when you cut in a birds mouth in the rafter to sit in the wall. If you install cross tie instead of ceiling joists you can raise the ceiling inside to a full 8 ft. I hope this helps.

Thanks..am planning low slope metal roof which will be 12 feet long so I can have 2 feet over hang on each side of 8 feet of width of shed... the length of shed is 15 feet...so total 15x8 = 120 sq. feet... city says without permit you can build only up to 10 feet height....from ground (not floor) to root pitch.. so my question is ...what should be height of walls studs on higher side so that root pitch on slope roof does not go beyond 10 feet ... also what should be height for the studs of lower wall (back wall) so we can get good slope ? Btw please note that we have put the floor on concrete blocks so 1 feet is already used ...

Not that I would requemend it but let's say you were using a real low pitch like 2/12 and you have 9 ft or 107" of usable height. Your high walls could be 99"with studs at 95 1/2 with a 2/12 angle cut on top. The short wall would be 83" with studs at 78 1/2 to the short of a 2 1/2 angle cut. All I did was subtract the 4" for rafters and and sheeting and 2" for each foot of the width and I started at the top, 2 ft from the building. For a 3/12 or 4/12 you just change out the 2" For the angle cuts, pick up a quick square, vaugn makes one with an angle arm and there fairly cheap. You will want to cut the angle on both end of the rafter too and you will want to tie them down with huricane hangers.

Wow, you are replying on holiday...thanks... am bit confused... we have 9 feet of usable height which is 108" and not 107.... so, correct me if am wrong in this calculation.. 108-4"(subsctract 1/2" sheathing and 31/2" for rafter)=104" than 104"-3"( subsctract 3" for top and bottom plate ..11/2" each) = 101" also we have to consider 2 feet overhang so total 4 inch subsctraction for that.. so 101-04=97" so 97" should be the stud height for high wall and low wall should be 16" lower than higher wall.. so low wall stud height should be 81" correct? ...I am saying 16" lower because 2 inch per foot ...and low wall is 8 feet away from high wall so 2" per foot is 2x8=16" I think am turning off now for firework but I will check your answer first thing in the morning....thanks...

Our holiday is July 1, Canada Day Hope the fire works are good I allowed for 3 plates which is two top plates and one bottom, Only use one top plate if your rafters can land directly above a stud. We never go with one top plate. I went with 107" so you wouldn't have to buy 10 ft 2x4s. Sounds like you have the math down anyway, some cities up here measure the height half way between gutter and peak, that would give you another 8", might be worth checking. 2/12 is a very low pitch.

Ok I can use two top plates but rest of the measurements is correct as I shown above? also I did not understand what you meant 107" ..so I dont have to buy 10 feet... please explain?

It looked like the math could end up with a 97" stud on the high wall which would have to come from a 10 ft board , that's all. Yes I think you math is fine.

Well, I already have 8 feet 2x4s so I would use them so it would be 96" instead 97" which is ok if its one inch lower...its fine...I have to adjust one and half inch for double top plate any way......I have to cut only the lower walls from 8 feet boards... Thanks for all your help...I don't think I have any more questions as of now..

You should cut all the stud with angle on top, same angle as the pitch of the roof. Square to long on the high wall and square to short on the low wall. Keep the top plate short on both walls so the side wall top plates overlap and tie everything together.

Ok one more question...the lower wall should also have two top plates and one bottom plate ..total 3 plates?

Yes the top plate is held back so the top plate of the side walls can overlap. That locks the corners together. I just went looking for a picture to show what I was talking about. I guess I've been over building sheds. No wonder most look so crappy after a few years. I did find this write up. http://www.constructioncalc.com/blo...ngle-or-double-top-plate-diminishing-returns/