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Daryl in Nanoose

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Okay here is the problem, I have a 4/12 pitch roof and presently it has butt shingles. Where the garage starts the roof has a very slight turn maybe 3-4 degrees( its like a mini valley towards the front of the house) . The past installer overlapped the joint and we do not like this. I have to put a new roof on this year and looking for ideas on what to do about this joint. I will be using butt shingles. Look foward to your input.

ourhouse.jpg
 
Okay now that its daylight here is a few pics. I have a few ideas but wanted to get some input as to what others might do in case I havent thought of something.

roof1.jpg

roof2.jpg
 
I always think a copper valley looks nice and works well...
 
I vote for a metal base, either aluminum, tin or copper with the shingles woven over the metal base. There should not be any nails in the valley area which will allow the valley to flex. The shingles should overlap the valley by 1' or more; nail the 2' portion and let the 1' drift.
Woven valleys are the only ones that don't get any call-backs.
Glenn
 
I vote for a metal base, either aluminum, tin or copper with the shingles woven over the metal base. There should not be any nails in the valley area which will allow the valley to flex. The shingles should overlap the valley by 1' or more; nail the 2' portion and let the 1' drift.
Woven valleys are the only ones that don't get any call-backs.
Glenn
This is what I was thinking to, with a low pitch roof a open valley could leak with heavy rains and wind. Well we will see if any other ideas show up so in the meantime thanks Glenn and Craig.
 
Honestly the BEST way is to overlap the valley as it looks like was done before. I'm not a big fan of having an open valley with just tin covering the sheeting. Water from time to time will run underneath the shingles to the roof. If you really think its ugly, just make sure you run ice and water protector in the valley and your tin or copper or whatever over that. I would also make sure that you overlap the shingle to the metal at least 3 or 4 inches and it might not be a bad idea to put some clear caulking along the two ridges of shingles just to be sure.
 
Like Glenn said, a woven valley will be a guaranteed protection while any cut or exposed valley might leak. And with the 3 to 4 inches, scratch that and do what Glenn said. Sorry.
 
I would put on a second floor now while you still can....

Or you could still go with the copper valley, make the pieces no longer than 8 feet long for expantion and contraction, also it would need a ridge/bend in the center to stop water from flowing up the other side of the valley.
On the edges you fold them over onto themselves about a 1/2 inch so if any water gets under the shingle it cannot flow off the copper. If you want to get crazy you can attach a tab to these beds and nail those to the roof so the metal can move and you dont penetrate your valley metal.
Last you always install some ice and water up the entire valley under the copper for that extra protection.

Copper prices are at a high now, however lasts and is nice to look at.

Even with the low pitch you will be ok. Shinled roofs leak as much as metal ones on low pitchs if things back up..that is why we have that human fly paper called ...ice and water.:D

I wish i knew how to draw a picture of thius....and ony if I kould spel....;)
 
I would put on a second floor now while you still can....
Great idea, wish I had the bucks, anyway great info here and I will take it all into consideration before my final decision. I have a fantastic roofer that does all my bigger jobs coming over next week and I will see what kinda bucks this will be. Thanks to everyone who replied.
Don't worru Inspectord, I cnn nott spel worth a darrnn eitherr..:D :D
 
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