Restoration & Renovations
- Jun 21, 2008
- Reaction score
This is the way I would do it; others may have a different opinion.A couple questions:
1/ For the 2x6 sill plate, should that be pressure treated or just regular, looks like just regular there now.
2/ What should I do for the king & Jack stud support?
3/ Should I spray anything in there to kill the mold/fungus that dry-rotted the wood or will fixing the water intrusion solve that as well?
4/ The vapor barrier is shot. What should I do about that as I don't understand why there were 4 vapor barriers there and why the wrapped up around above and behind things. Basically my understanding is vapor barrier should have went up concrete wall downstairs then come over the 2x6 on the foundation then went to the outside of the rim joist then up to the subfloor. At that point that black water barrier membrane should have been under the door and sealed all of that off. The basement is finished so if I can avoid opening that wall and tap off the vapor barrier where that comes up to the cement top that would be great...
5/ For the bolt into the foundation, should I just cut that off flush with the foundation and move on to replace the 2x6 or should I put a notch in the 2x6 so I can still have the bolt in place?
1/ The plate can be regular SF. You are high enough off the ground.
2/ After you get the new band/ledge installed I would try and cut that bad end off the plate (back to the next stud) that is under the king/jack and wedge a new piece in there. The old one will have nails into it from the K/J so it will take some work. After you get the wedge in place, try driving a screw at an angle through the studs into the wedge to hole it in place. You can also toenail a screw through the J when you remove the old door.
3/ If you remove the old rot and properly flash it, that should solve the problem.
4/ Yeah, I'm not sure what they did, put you want the vapor barrier open along the bottom edge in case and water were to get behind it, it could drain out the bottom. I use Ice & Water shield (sticky back stuff) around and under my doors & windows. I would use that below your door here also. Let it hang down over the concrete foundation a little to seal that space between the foundation and plate. The way it had been done before by wrapping, it was trapping any moisture up against the wood, causing rot. And yes, don't forget the sill flashing under the door. I use sheet lead and form my own "pan" along the full length of the door with a small lip on the interior edge and then a bent over lap on the exterior and also up both J studs on each side...all from one piece. You can also use the sticky Ice & Water shield. You can buy the I&W in widths that will work for this application.
5/ I notch my 2x6 for the bolt when I do it. Just easier than trying to cut it off.
And also as I said earlier, you need to add 1/2" plywood sheathing to the K/J studs around the door AND also below the door....before you do the flashing work. If you're going to put the deck back, it needs to be attached directly to the ledger/sheathing without any siding sandwiched in between. And the the deck rim joist can be flashed tight to the house so there is not water intrusion at that joint.