Sliding door troubles

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mabloodhound

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A couple questions:

1/ For the 2x6 sill plate, should that be pressure treated or just regular, looks like just regular there now.

2/ What should I do for the king & Jack stud support?

3/ Should I spray anything in there to kill the mold/fungus that dry-rotted the wood or will fixing the water intrusion solve that as well?

4/ The vapor barrier is shot. What should I do about that as I don't understand why there were 4 vapor barriers there and why the wrapped up around above and behind things. Basically my understanding is vapor barrier should have went up concrete wall downstairs then come over the 2x6 on the foundation then went to the outside of the rim joist then up to the subfloor. At that point that black water barrier membrane should have been under the door and sealed all of that off. The basement is finished so if I can avoid opening that wall and tap off the vapor barrier where that comes up to the cement top that would be great...

5/ For the bolt into the foundation, should I just cut that off flush with the foundation and move on to replace the 2x6 or should I put a notch in the 2x6 so I can still have the bolt in place?
This is the way I would do it; others may have a different opinion.

1/ The plate can be regular SF. You are high enough off the ground.

2/ After you get the new band/ledge installed I would try and cut that bad end off the plate (back to the next stud) that is under the king/jack and wedge a new piece in there. The old one will have nails into it from the K/J so it will take some work. After you get the wedge in place, try driving a screw at an angle through the studs into the wedge to hole it in place. You can also toenail a screw through the J when you remove the old door.

3/ If you remove the old rot and properly flash it, that should solve the problem.

4/ Yeah, I'm not sure what they did, put you want the vapor barrier open along the bottom edge in case and water were to get behind it, it could drain out the bottom. I use Ice & Water shield (sticky back stuff) around and under my doors & windows. I would use that below your door here also. Let it hang down over the concrete foundation a little to seal that space between the foundation and plate. The way it had been done before by wrapping, it was trapping any moisture up against the wood, causing rot. And yes, don't forget the sill flashing under the door. I use sheet lead and form my own "pan" along the full length of the door with a small lip on the interior edge and then a bent over lap on the exterior and also up both J studs on each side...all from one piece. You can also use the sticky Ice & Water shield. You can buy the I&W in widths that will work for this application.

5/ I notch my 2x6 for the bolt when I do it. Just easier than trying to cut it off.

And also as I said earlier, you need to add 1/2" plywood sheathing to the K/J studs around the door AND also below the door....before you do the flashing work. If you're going to put the deck back, it needs to be attached directly to the ledger/sheathing without any siding sandwiched in between. And the the deck rim joist can be flashed tight to the house so there is not water intrusion at that joint.


Dave Mason
 
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gottodo1

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mablood,
I've never really understood vapor barriers very well even after ready alot of websites as I just don't see how it benefits things very much when you realize it's really air flow that's the issue (100X more from my reading).

So since the vapor barrier to the basement is cut behind the sill plate and good rim joist, Ideally I would patch a new piece in and put it ontop of the sill plate and under the rim joist, then run it up the rim joist to the hole for the door. Then the flashing would come down over the door opening and the ledger board and protrude out and over the siding. Something like this except it doesn't show the vapor barier becuase it was directly using the RIM Joist and not a 2ndary mounting board. Right? https://www.familyhandyman.com/decks/building-a-deck/attaching-a-new-deck-to-a-house-the-correct-method/view-all/ Where would I leave it "open" At? I've used the 4" version on doors but I figure the 12" version will be more practical for the deck install. https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/decking-deck-products/deck-fasteners-flashing-supports/12-x-25-deck-flashing-tape/p-1462879491609-c-5728.htm?tid=-493131570350807142&ipos=41
 

mabloodhound

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Vapor barriers do NOT belong on the exterior of a house. The only exterior product to use is a breathable, water shedding product like TYVEK. You do not want anything patched in on top of the sill plate.
In your link, you will note that they added the ledger (the rim joist is behind the plywood sheathing). As I said above, you will need to add 1/2" plywood over your rim and then flashing over that. I suggested using the ice & water over the plywood because it is self sealing from any nail/screw penetrations. And yes, that product from Menards is perfect and meant exactly for what I am saying.

Dave Mason
 

nealtw

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I just read some of the high lights so excuse me if I repeat what others of said.

Do the stuff under the door and save the stuff under the jack stud until you have the window out Just put a coupe studs under the header so then you can work under the jack and king.
Just to the left of the kink stud there are 3 studs together, That might be a point load and it would be more than the window jacks.
Regular lumber is fine but you want something between concrete and wood, sheet plastic would be fine for that. If that looks hard, then you could go treated but treated is wet and thicker so that could be a problem too.

Where I am the sheeting never goes down over the rim joist so don't be surprised if the rim joist is out and matches the sheeting above.
 

gottodo1

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Okay guys, so I have the new door coming tomorrow and I pulled out the old door tonight. Not too bad except for some bug stuff I found and will ask about in next paragraph. I don't even have to replace much of the floor most of it looks really good. I might pull out the jack stud, fix the support under it and put in a new jack stud on the one side but not even sure if I need to.

SO I've had lady bugs the whole time I've lived here and box elder bugs. This year has been the worst (makes sense, the door was half removed for a month). So today when I removed the door entirely there were lady bugs EVERYWHERE. Between every section in the insulation, everywhere. Then when I removed the base I saw what look like eggs. The eggs were under caulk that was put in 7 years ago when I hired someone to re floor my house. The picture makes it look like alot but it was only a few inches 4-6 down the floor. At first I thought termite but I don't think they're frass since they're hollow??? Anyone an expert on household insects. I'm going to see if someone can come out tomorrow and look at it before I put the new door in just in case. Maybe buy some pesticide and soak the wood in it just in case. None of the wood damage appeared to be bug related so I'm not too worried but maybe I should be? My son was panicking about the bugs so the evidence is gone but...

What do you guys think, worried about egg cases? Plan sound good replace bit of flooring that's missing, maybe replace jack stud and brace and then install new door?

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nealtw

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I would change out as much of that rot as I could. Rot is a living mass so anything you are leaving that has as much as a stain I would paint with end cut treatment.
 

gottodo1

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Neal, that's probably a good idea so I'l l just cut out all of the overhang of the rim joist and replace it.. not really that hard I guess. I've never heard of end cut treatment do you mean like a polyurethane?

Any thoughts about the bug thing?
 

gottodo1

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... Maybe I'm just too tired, Peel and stick what? Flooring? The flooring is called Adura but pretty close but we really like it since it's so warm compared to the tile we had in Arizona and looks good with the real grout. Did you see something wrong with how it was installed?

I found it, https://www.menards.com/main/paint/exterior-paint-stain/exterior-wood-toners-and-clears/wood-toners/woodlife-coppercoat-green-wood-preservative-1-gal/p-1444452898274.htm and I think I'll coat the crap out of that area not to have to worry about it again, not to mention the flashing this time ;).
 
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mabloodhound

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Yes, you do need to add flashing around that door sill. It will keep the water out.
 

gottodo1

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SO Yesterday I took it all fixed it all up really well. Today I set the door in and it was great just a little warping int he frame but I was going to straight that out no problem.... That was UNTIL my wife. First she noticed this was the "old" style of window blind control with 2 levers instead of the 1 we had been promised. I got her to accept that after some grumbling... THEN she tried them and the internal blinds on the fixed door don't work... I can't believe my luck. I'm going to call Minnkota Monday but I'm so ticked. I've done the 2 clicks it should work thing but it doesn't... THe sliding door works just fine. Thankfully I just set it in before I applied caulk behind it... If I didn't have bad luck I'd certainly have no luck with this dang house.
 

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