Step Repair

Discussion in 'Bricks, Masonry and Concrete' started by gembob, Oct 15, 2010.

  1. Oct 15, 2010 #1

    gembob

    gembob

    gembob

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    I recently had a patio installed in my back yard and had to get the concrete step down removed to do so. When it was removed the contractors dinged up part of the concrete slab under the door and I need to patch it up. I'm wondering what I should use to fill the gap and also what I need to use to patch the surface - you can see there is some sort of textured strip (notice the red weaving), but I don't know what that is or how to get it to look like the rest of the house. Any help would be appreciated.

    IMAG0061.jpg

    IMAG0062.jpg
     
  2. Oct 15, 2010 #2

    kok328

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    The textured strip appears to be vinyl or fiberglass mesh used to hold the stucco in place. If it were me, I just paste over the whole thing with ready-mix cement and trowel it to a 45 degree slope kinda like a base molding.
     
  3. Oct 17, 2010 #3

    gembob

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    So you think just have a small concrete slope the length of the door?
     
  4. Oct 18, 2010 #4

    itsreallyconc

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    no idea why the mesh is there either but, if it were mine, i'd head for a const supply house & buy a bag of ' just add water ' polymer-,modified conc mix,,, you can color the water w/dry pigment PRIOR to mixing the patch mtl,,, then again, that's our work,,, just don't be in a hurry - do it like our wives - READ THE DIRECTIONS WELL FIRST ! ! ! :beer: there isn't anything of value for this job to be found in anyone's apron store
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2010
  5. Oct 18, 2010 #5

    resurfacer

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    The Red is a stucco mesh . I don't think I would recommend U use ready-mix cement, as it has large aggregate.

    Loews's and Home Depot have concrete dressing and concrete colors U can finish with a trowel, broom or apply with a drywall hopper gun, very DIY user friendly. It comes in concrete gray. if U want a color, add the color to the water. Easy $25.00 fix
     
  6. Oct 18, 2010 #6

    itsreallyconc

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    oh, NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO,,, jeeze, just as i decide to post, another guy ( ardex, too ) decides an apron store has the right stuff :eek: not sure if gembob has ever SEEN a marshalltown sharpshooter let alone run 1,,, its only 5 or 6 sf so why would anyone blow it on OR spend $70 - $ 75 to buy a gun ? ? ?

    come to think of it, most everything's easy IF you know how, have the tools, & can apply some experience - even ardex & gypcrete :beer:
     
  7. Oct 19, 2010 #7

    gembob

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    Don't know what a drywall hopper gun is, and I've never done any concrete work at all, but willing to give it a shot. I definitely would like to match the color and texture if possible, I believe that the stucco mesh covering was painted, and I have the paint - so would it be possible to fill the gap then replace that stucco mesh and achieve the same texture and color? So what is the difference between concrete dressing and the polymer? Thanks for all the advice so far....
     
  8. Oct 19, 2010 #8

    itsreallyconc

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    paint won't adhere to mesh,,, topping mix is sand/cement - polymer-modified is much stronger & more flexible,,, n either should be feather-edged in this app to me.
     
  9. Oct 25, 2010 #9

    gembob

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    So how would I go about doing that myself? The feather-edging? Will it match the surrounding texture if I do that?
     
  10. Oct 26, 2010 #10

    itsreallyconc

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    already said where to get the mtls,,, read the directions on the bag, get a 6gal bkt from some pool guy, TRUE 1/2" drill, & a m ud mixer - that's what we use,,, will it match ? depends on how good you are or get to be :2cents:
     
  11. Oct 26, 2010 #11

    Ben8n

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    IF you 45 it the edges will become weak and will crumble over time.
     
  12. Oct 26, 2010 #12

    itsreallyconc

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    maybe for you but we've never had the problem w/our material of choice,,, however good conc practices should apply til 1 gains experience w/polymer-modified mtls & you find out what you can & cannot accomplish.

    IF 1 selects apron store grade stuff, i agree - edges will degrade depending on point & tire loading
     
  13. Oct 27, 2010 #13

    gembob

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    Okay I'm going to give it a shot this weekend - just one more thing I wanted to add, I saw in itsreallyconc's post a mention of this only being 5 or 6 sq. ft. I think the pictures might be deceiving. The entire "hole" I'll call it, is only 1-3inches high in most spots and maybe 2-2.5 feet across, its really pretty small. Does that change the approaches you've outlined or same approach smaller quantities?
     
  14. Oct 27, 2010 #14

    itsreallyconc

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    you might consider ' extending ' the volume w/CLEAN washed aggregate ( landscaping pebbles sold in plastic bags - garden section of any apron store ) IF its that ( 3" ) deep,,, that will give you more yield w/o compromising the compressive strength of your mix.

    but you sound as if you're capable of 5th grade math, right ? :clap:
     

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