Stove burners not working correctly

Discussion in 'General Appliance Discussion' started by Yod12, Jul 17, 2017.

  1. Jul 17, 2017 #1

    Yod12

    Yod12

    Yod12

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    I have a Tappan Millennia stove. The two front burners are not working right. They are difficult to start and don't reach full flame anymore. The low and high settings are basically the same and there's no graduation of the flame as I turn the dial. The power burner won't even boil water. The two back burners are working fine.
    These don't seem to be typical burners that I've run across before. Other stoves I've been able to lift the top to access all piping/ductwork and burners.

    Stove burner 1.jpg

    Stove burner 2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2017
  2. Aug 16, 2017 #2

    maxdad118

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    That brass colored piece in the middle is your orifice, often times gets build up and needs clearing. The fact your rear burners are working fine tells me your appliance regulator is fine. Take a pick and clear out the orifice. A tooth pick may be too short..Also some compressed air or a blow hose of some sort and blow thru the orifice. One last thing to check are all the slots around the burner- make sure you don't have grease and oil build up. I'm leaning towards the orifice needing clearing out. Yes, don't lift up the top or you might damage the igniter wires or burner tubes.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2017
  3. Aug 16, 2017 #3

    bud16415

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    I cleaned all mine on my charm glow grill this spring. Gas and propane deposit some kind of minerally deposits in these offices over time and the front get used more than the back so they will slow down first. Cleaning as suggested above is the right fix. I haven’t had much luck with a wire or toothpick as the stuff is crusted on pretty good. I use a tiny drill bit and turn it by hand. Don’t put it in your power drill or you will snap it off in the hole.

    Mine went from taking 30 minutes to cook a hamburger to about 3.
     
  4. Aug 16, 2017 #4

    maxdad118

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    If you use a drill bit, make sure it's smaller than the hole. You do NOT want to open the original I.d. If you make the orifice bigger you can make poor flame characteristics(candeling flame). Which results in higher CO reads. The idea is to clear the opening.
     
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  5. Aug 16, 2017 #5

    bud16415

    bud16415

    bud16415

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    Spinning a drill bit between your fingers especially a 1/32 bit or whatever it is, would be really hard to remove any metal IMO. That’s why I always recommend doing this by hand. It is that the cutting edge and flutes of a drill work well at scraping away the crud and bring it out of the hole. When you turn the gas on it will blow some of the crumbs out as well.

    It is good advice to warn about drilling though. If you see brass chips coming out your drill bit is too large.
     
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  6. Aug 18, 2017 #6

    Yod12

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    I vacuumed it out as it seems a tooth pick or the like would push anything further in. The brass piece looks like a jet with a hexagonal shape...I'm wondering if that screws out. I pushed the burner a little and it sank down. So I pried the top off and saw that the burners are basically just hanging there on the ends of the gas lines. I managed to bring it back up. There are no holes in this burner - just slots; not sure if the picture is clear enough to show that.
     
  7. Aug 18, 2017 #7

    maxdad118

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    Most newer burners have slots and basically you want no buildup in them. Cheaper, aluminum burners often have holes and slots. If a toothpick won't reach, use a long paper clip straightened out. Don't worry too much about the little debris that falls in there. It SHOULD get forced out when you turn the burners on. We're talking about minor buildup on the edges of the orifice opening. It doesn't take much to get the flames from weak to new again. Did whatever you did, help?
     
  8. Oct 13, 2017 #8

    Yod12

    Yod12

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    I finally took a proxa-brush - ya know, those dental thangs to em and good as new
     
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