Sweat 3" Copper

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum' started by kok328, Apr 23, 2014.

  1. Apr 23, 2014 #1

    kok328

    kok328

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    Anyone have any experience sweating 3" copper pipe?

    I'm not sure about the piping but, I plan to use a 3", Type M, coupler and was wondering if MAPP gas with a Bernzo-matic head will be sufficient to heat that much pipe.
     
  2. Apr 23, 2014 #2

    JoeD

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    I have done it with a normal propane torch.
     
  3. Apr 23, 2014 #3

    Wuzzat?

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    Last edited: Apr 23, 2014
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  4. Apr 23, 2014 #4

    TomS1

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    a lot of plumbers use a dual head torch to heat up lager fittings like that.
     
  5. Apr 23, 2014 #5

    JoeD

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    I don't remember how long it took. I only have a normal propane torch and I have used it for 3" copper drains. So it can be done.
     
  6. Apr 23, 2014 #6

    Wuzzat?

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    Your skill level may be above average.
    If I ever have to do this I guess I'd use two nozzles with flame spreaders to get uniform and quick heating. Maybe two propane canisters strapped together with a wedge-shaped spacer and hose clamps coupled end to end, so opposite sides of the joint get heated at the same time.
     
  7. Apr 23, 2014 #7

    guyod

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    If it was a drain pipe with under 1 psi or water pipe up to 80 psi, would be the deciding factor here.
     
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  8. Apr 24, 2014 #8

    kok328

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    Well glad to see it can be done without any special tools.
    I had already considered another set of hands and running two torches at the same time.
    I only use propane for the BBQ grill and a regular propane torch head won't give you the full benefit of using MAPP gas.
    Hey, no guts, no glory, what could go wrong ?
    I'll let ya'll know how it turns out.
    Thanks.
     
  9. Apr 24, 2014 #9

    Wuzzat?

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    So. . .is it pressurized?
     
  10. Apr 24, 2014 #10

    nealtw

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    Years ago I helped a plumber do this with a gas blow torch. He tinned both first and had me hold one peice and push them together while he heated it. As soon as they slipped together he removed the heat and said done.
     
  11. Apr 30, 2014 #11

    kok328

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    Yes, it is pressurized, 50psi. Job is on hold for now, missed my window.
    Got it all layed out and once the insulation was removed from the pipe, it doesn't look all that intimidating.
    I'll let ya know how it goes.
     
  12. Apr 30, 2014 #12

    Wuzzat?

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    So there's 350 lbs trying to separate the joint you will solder and if you have water hammer it will spike much higher. :hide:
     
  13. Apr 30, 2014 #13

    nealtw

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    Talked to a plumber who pointed out that the newer solder needs a lot more heat than the old lead did.

    I found a good discussion at the handyman site.
    http://handymanwire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/225885/How_to_solder_a_3_inch_copper_
     
  14. Apr 30, 2014 #14

    Wuzzat?

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    I saw that site. They were a lot more helpful than the formal handbooks on the subject.

    Most Web hits dealt with pipe 3/4" and under and almost anybody can figure that job out.

    There's BTUs/hr delivered to the joint and there's flame temperature and there is the melting point of solder and the melting point of copper.

    And then there's
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cool_flame
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2014
  15. Apr 30, 2014 #15

    kok328

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    No just 50psi in the system. I have MAPP gas and MAPP torch heads. I will be running 2 torches so heat shouldn't be an issue for the lead-free solder.
    I also plan on installing a VFD controller to alleviate water hammering.
     
  16. May 6, 2014 #16

    kok328

    kok328

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    MAPP torch on each side, sweats up just like 3/4".
    Just takes a little longer to heat up.
    Almost looked like I knew what I was doing ;)
     
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  17. May 6, 2014 #17

    oldognewtrick

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    Love it when the plan comes together...:clap:
     

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