ThermoPride oil furnace

Help Support House Repair Talk:

raymond-

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I am saving up for (as reading up on) a heat pump. In the meantime I am still using a oil furnace in
mild Seattle WA. My oil useage is lower than average and I get my 300 gallon fillup ever 2-3 years.
In the interim, I'm seeking to perform my own oil furnace PM this year and viewed quite a number of
Youtube videos. I figured at the very least, I should be able to vacuum and change out the fuel filter.

What I can't figure out is how to shut off fuel upstream of the filter. The tank is approximately 15 meters
away, underground. The supply lines rise out of a concrete slab and connect to the fuel filter (that is the
first connection I see). If I attempt to dismantle the fuel filter container to remove the filter, what is to
prevent fuel (biodiesel, in my case) to spurt forth unabated? (I've located the bleed valve already).

I'm hoping those more learned from the hive can provide me with clues on how to proceed. thank you

001.jpg002.jpg003.jpg
 

Blue Jay

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I am saving up for (as reading up on) a heat pump. In the meantime I am still using a oil furnace in
mild Seattle WA. My oil useage is lower than average and I get my 300 gallon fillup ever 2-3 years.
In the interim, I'm seeking to perform my own oil furnace PM this year and viewed quite a number of
Youtube videos. I figured at the very least, I should be able to vacuum and change out the fuel filter.

What I can't figure out is how to shut off fuel upstream of the filter. The tank is approximately 15 meters
away, underground. The supply lines rise out of a concrete slab and connect to the fuel filter (that is the
first connection I see). If I attempt to dismantle the fuel filter container to remove the filter, what is to
prevent fuel (biodiesel, in my case) to spurt forth unabated? (I've located the bleed valve already).

I'm hoping those more learned from the hive can provide me with clues on how to proceed. thank you

View attachment 24349View attachment 24350View attachment 24351
From what I see and read your fuel tank is below level of the furnace, 1st picture shows a check valve to the left of the filter (that is to keep the fuel from flowing back to the tank), the 2nd line below the bleeder valve is a return line so the only fuel you would spill is what is in the filter.
Before you put the filter back on fill it as much as you can to help the pump re prime.
 

raymond-

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I am most grateful for the benefit of your experience, Blue Jay. I will carefully proceed with the filter change....with a big catch tub ready. r-
 

billshack

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normally a preventative maintenance job consists of
1) changing the oil nozzle
2) inspecting the fire box and making repairs as necessary with bricks and or refractory cement. and cleaning fire box.
3) inspecting and repairing smoke pipe and damper .
changing the oil filter.
4) bleeding oil line and stating up
5) adjusting the burner air oil mix for efficiency.
6) doing smoke test
7) doing air over burner and air damper
8) taking stack temperature
9) doing efficiency test
A good turn up should take 1-2 hours if done right
 

raymond-

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Thanks, billshack. Normally I have the service provider perform cleaning. I switched to bio B15 the last fill up so I figured I would perform the recommended fuel filter change this year and then alternate years with the more thorough inspection. Next year, what I can do is hover and watch their procedure....that is, if I put off on heat pump installation. It isn't that extreme in Seattle to where I am finding it is a 'must' to convert (or not). I can actually go almost 3 years on 100 gal use per year. It isn't prudent to push the envelope though, on the chance that Mother Nature decides to dump snow like Denver yesterday....where the previous days saw over 100ºF. crazy....then back into 80º later this week
 

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