Under cabinet outlets

[Ron Van]

Yesterday, I wanted to hide the under cabinet light wires. I previously ran Romex to the general area under each cabinet group and the Romex terminates in a plastic interface box under the cabinet. The box converts the Romex to a matching plug for the LED light system. At this point it is still 120vac. The step-down transformer is built in to the light bar. I ordered (1) 12" bar, (4) 36" bars and (1) 24" bar. All the light bars in each cabinet group link together. I have 3 groups of cabinets.

 

[Ron Van]

I had to make a custom wire length to hook one of the light groups up. My pre-planned Romex wire install wasn't in the right place for this particular light system. I bought the lights after doing the kitchen wiring. Had I know how these lights work, I would have wired the kitchen differently.

 

[Ron Van]

I bought some Wire channels to organize/hide the wires hooking the LED light bars together.

 

[Guzzle]

All splices should be in heat-resistant boxes.

 

[Ron Van]

All splices should be in heat-resistant boxes.

Good point! That is 110vac. I'll have to see if I can get the proper length cord from Ultra-Pro. I just have one that needed to be spliced. The Heat resistant box probably would be too big for under the cabinets.

 

[Guzzle]

The Heat resistant box probably would be too big for under the cabinets.

The NEC may have a cow but I think I once soldered a splice, used heat shrink tubing & then centered a 4" length of 1/2" ID copper tubing over the splice. But sometimes I just use crimp connections.

The failure rate of soldered/crimped connections must be way lower than that of Wirenuts.

 

[Ron Van]

The NEC may have a cow but I think I once soldered a splice, used heat shrink tubing & then centered a 4" length of 1/2" ID copper tubing over the splice. But sometimes I just use crimp connections.

The failure rate of soldered/crimped connections must be way lower than that of Wirenuts.

I agree. It's not at the top of my "Worry List".