vacuum breaker hose bibb

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hr_veedu

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Stuck with one of those broken vacuum breaker hose bibb situation. I took out bottom half of the piece but the top is stuck. I can't see a break out screw anywhere. I tried hacksawing (without cutting into the thread) to look for the screw but no obvious indication. There is a small dent on the backside. Can't see a screw and it seems weird to have it twisted to be beyond reach. Thanks for any insights on how to unscrew this.


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Unfortunately I've removed many of these for boiler, cooling tower and chiller work. They never are easy access locations. Here are some tricks that may help make your job easier:

The dent on the back is probably the set-screw, HR-Veedu. Often they are hex head (Allen) screws. Perhaps try some Allen wrenches to see if you have good luck.

Bad luck is that the screw was a break-off type used in commercial applications and is broken. If so, can you fit a drill in to drill or use an easy-out? (No such luck, right?)

Any luck that the hose bibb is NPT so you can spin it off for easier access on the workbench?

OR-
Looking at the saw cut in the 3rd photo, you're pretty deep. Maybe make another cut just as deep 180 degrees away. Then use some water pump pliers, like Channellock 420's, to turn the fitting. It'll peel apart. (Those are made with soft, yellow brass.)

OR-
Make another cut at an angle and have the bottoms of the two cuts meet. When you turn with pliers, the wedge you just made will fall out. Tapping the side of the wedge gently with a dull chisel will spin the body off.

A Dremel with a cut off wheel might help you cut faster & with easier access, too. (Good excuse to buy a Dremel)

A large Nut Splitter will crack the body in half without damaging the hose bibb threads. You'll have to shop on line for a large enough one with a wide chisel that won't break the bank. Those at plumbing suppliers are really expensive.

For the replacement, I suggest a stainless steel screw with anti-seize paste. Leave the head sticking out so you can grab it with pliers. (Or skip the vacuum breaker if you can get away with it.)

Best Of Luck & Let Us Know How It Goes!
Paul
 
Thanks for some ideas. I will give it a try tomorrow. The whole mechanism seems to have never thought about the future replacement situation given that these vacuum breakers fail regularly.
 
The whole mechanism seems to have never thought about the future replacement situation given that these vacuum breakers fail regularly.
That's For Sure!

In commercial, the screw is intended to break off on purpose when installed- especially in industrial facilities and restaurants. That's so the people don't take them off after inspection because they sometimes spit.

The plumbers at work used to use set screws so it looked like the break-off screw was snapped off until the inspectors got hip to it.

Let us know how the project goes! Smoothly I hope.
Paul
 
Thanks to Paul's tips, I was able to cut through with confidence.

For completeness to help the community. Screenshots step by step cutting through it. The cut out screw was at the bcak and my guess was right trying to hack through it (but not enough space).

Now, I have a different problem though, there is a small droplet leaking through the tap every second. The vacuum breaker was hiding that tap seal issue?




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I'm glad the project went well! Thanks for posting the photos. They will surely help others in the future!


For the drip:
Turn off the supply indoors feeding the hose bibb.

Open the hose bibb's handle part way between closed and open.

Remove the handle's screw & lift off the handle. It might take some creative words to get the handle off. (Plus wiggling)
If it won't budge, try pouring some vinegar on the center of the handle & waiting a few hours for it to break the lime.
Handle pullers are also sold for the worst case scenarios.

With an adjustable wrench, unscrew the packing nut counter-clockwise (Photo attached)

Lift the packing nut off of the stem. (Optional, but makes checking the packing possible See below)

Put the handle back on.

Turn it counter-clockwise and the stem will screw itself out of the faucet body.

The washer on the stem is probably worn, shattered or missing.

Feel inside for the seat. It is at the bottom, where the washer lands. If it is rough, you will have to either dress it or replace it.
If it is smooth- No attention is needed. (Probably it is smooth unless someone wrenched down on the stem with a missing washer.)
Dressing the seat is done with a tool that hardware stores loan or you can buy inexpensively.
If it is replaceable, a Seat Wrench or the proper size Allen wrench will unscrew it. Your valve looks old enough to
have a replaceable seat.

At the hardware store, pick up a matching washer. It's probably Size 00 flat. (Guess)
It's wise to also pick up a packing gasket to put under the packing nut.
They wear out. (Failing to find a gasket, packing string will work well.)

A Mom & Pop Hardware store will most likely replace the washer and gasket for you right in the store.


The whole project, although sounding complicated, takes abut 15 minutes.

Happy Plumbing!
Paul
 

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Great write up Paul. Thanks for this!
 

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