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Vinyl cladding on Anderson door

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slownsteady

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I have an Anderson slider that a piece of the vinyl is peeling off. It's wood underneath. I want to re-glue it. I think it would be smart to remove it completely first, clean it up and then glue it back down. The first question is what kind of adhesive should I use? And second, what do you think will work best at cleaning off the old adhesive to get it prepared?
 

bud16415

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I don’t know what is the proper glue to use, but I would use liquid nails.
 

slownsteady

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I don’t know what is the proper glue to use, but I would use liquid nails.
I'm thinking along the same line. Just want to make sure I can get it flat / flush enough cuz it's the fixed unit and the slider passes in front of it.
 

Mastercarpenty

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Contact cement would be my quick choice. Most other glues that bond to plastic are too thick-bodied to flatten the cladding back where it belongs. I'd mask everything off and use the spray type so it reaches into every space. But Andersen may have a better answer.

Phil
 

slownsteady

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I guess contact cement is waterproof enough for this outdoor-facing piece. I also guess that contact cement needs a near-perfectly flat surface. Would a finish sander be appropriate for removing old adhesive?
 

slownsteady

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I just looked back at this thread and thought I should put an end on it.

I went with a Gorilla brand adhesive. I think contact cement would have been the correct choice, but I would have had to remove the whole door to place the panel with total accuracy, and contact cement is not forgiving. It was the stationary door, and as I read up on the assembly instructions I realized that I would have had to disassemble just about everything to take that door off to lay it flat. Since I was racing the cold weather, and since the chances of cracking some odd piece of trim was a possibility, I decided to work it in place.
There were a couple of spots of soft wood under the panel which I had to dig out. Then I used a wood hardener over the whole area and filled it with a two part wood putty. I scraped and sanded off the remaining adhesive from the door and from the back of the vinyl panel (it actually was more of a laminate..it looked pretty much like Formica). The Gorilla construction adhesive that I went with was waterproof and white like the door - two good reasons. The adhesive claimed to be easy to clean up and since I was worried about squeeze-out, that was also a good reason. It turned out that it was easy to clean up and spreadable enough that I was able to get a nice flush tight fit without much of a problem. The white color that is visible in the seam means I didn't have to try to caulk the seams.
It held up good through this winter and i will let you know if it continues to hold up in the nicer weather. :)
 

oldognewtrick

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I've had good results with gorilla tapes and glues. Glad it worked out for you.👍👍up!
 

jaaasshh

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@slownsteady How's that gorilla glue holding up? Curious to know which kind you used. (If you remember at this point!)

The core of my door looks like some kind of OSB-type wood. The standard gorilla glue that expands as it hardens seems like it might be a good fit here to expand into the wood's texture - if I can get a good clamp on it. Do you recall if your door was similar?

Thanks!
 

slownsteady

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2 1/2 years later and I still am happy with it. I used Gorilla Construction Adhesive (Gorilla 9oz Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive-8010003 - The Home Depot) I was careful to spread it on very thin, pressed the panel into place and blocked it with a piece of plywood and weights leaning against it until it dried overnight. Putting it on thin prevented any squeeze-out and also prevented any lumpiness.

I would be cautious of an expanding glue, as it could expand outward instead.
 

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