Wall Corner Damage To Repairs

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Tumbleweed

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I've been procrastinating on this repair to the wall's edge. The damage occurred when the door was being closed while the deadbolt was not retraced. OK, accidents happen.
I am wondering if this is something a layman can tackle. In the past I've been successful with stucco repairs & texturing, brick-n-mortar border repairs, and pouring concrete mow-strips. I will spend some time learning and practicing before jumping in to the actual project. If this is a more involved repair than I perceive, please let me know.

First, I expect the metal strip needs to be addressed. Should I use a hammer and a piece of wood to drive down the high spots before filling in the low areas ?
Second, Does the existing metal strip need to be wire-brushed and a coat of primer applied, say Rust-Oleum, to address the weathered condition of the strip and inhibit future rusting ?
Third, Should I tack a new section of metal corner strip over the damaged metal strip while filling the depression area ?
Forth, Would FixAll powder patch compound or Oatey Fit-It-Stick (Epoxy Putty in a tube} be a better product than a drywall putty filler ?
Fifth, Would this need a layer of the Drywall Repair 'Mesh' material as a reinforcement over the corner edge ?

Thank you in advance, I appreciate all feedback and recommendations.
 

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Hmm, not getting much inspiration or advice on this one. Guess I'll make the best guess of it and hope it works out. Thanks for reading,
 
Hi Tumbleweed,
Something I've had good success with for corner bead dents & crushes like yours is auto body filler. Lightweight fillers sand easily. (Epoxy is difficult to sand and may pop off of the corner bead.) You can get these in white with various colors of hardener. I choose white or light blue hardener so the paint will hide it in one coat.

Duraglass is a very strong filler that will tolerate the next time the bolt's out when the door slams hard. It is a little more tedious to sand than the light weight ones, but is crazy-tolerant of being hit. It's waterproof, too.

Both accept regular latex wall paint well.

One Important Note: Be sure the door is open and a fan is blowing outdoors. The VOCs in body filler are kind of high.

OR:
Occasionally, I've use wood filler in a pinch. A good one can be sanded glass smooth. Ace Hardware brand cheap stuff is the one I find works best. Or, if you have some laying around, setting type drywall joint compound will work well. Neither will take the next hit as well as body filler.

Paul
 
Hi Tumbleweed,
Something I've had good success with for corner bead dents & crushes like yours is auto body filler. Lightweight fillers sand easily. (Epoxy is difficult to sand and may pop off of the corner bead.) You can get these in white with various colors of hardener. I choose white or light blue hardener so the paint will hide it in one coat.

Duraglass is a very strong filler that will tolerate the next time the bolt's out when the door slams hard. It is a little more tedious to sand than the light weight ones, but is crazy-tolerant of being hit. It's waterproof, too.

Both accept regular latex wall paint well.

One Important Note: Be sure the door is open and a fan is blowing outdoors. The VOCs in body filler are kind of high.

OR:
Occasionally, I've use wood filler in a pinch. A good one can be sanded glass smooth. Ace Hardware brand cheap stuff is the one I find works best. Or, if you have some laying around, setting type drywall joint compound will work well. Neither will take the next hit as well as body filler.

Paul
Paul. I appreciate the suggestions n recommendations from your personal experiences. I'll look into the body fillers for starters. Sounds a lot better then my original idea of using FixAll. Thank you,
 
Paul. I appreciate the suggestions n recommendations from your personal experiences. I'll look into the body fillers for starters. Sounds a lot better then my original idea of using FixAll. Thank you,
My Pleasure!

An odd coincidence:
This afternoon, a door's corner bead at home got bashed by a furniture collision far enough to bend out and pop the flanges. I hammered it sorta straight with a ball peen. To restore the crisp corner, I used some USG Special Lite body filler with light grey hardener that I had. It's super easy to sculpt and sand. The damage is gone.

If there is an auto body paint supplier store near you, it will have a variety of colors for the hardener as well as a wide variety of fillers. I forgot to mention that Duraglass is dark green & sands to a lighter green.

If you do end up having to use the usual red filler, a good stain blocking primer will allow one coat of any finish paint. PPG Seal Grip Gripper Bonding Primer works very well on everything. Home Depot sells it, but it is about 1/2 the price per gallon at a PPG store.

Happy Sculpting!
Paul
 
To All,
One more thought, any ideas or suggestions where I might find a short length of brass finish corner strip I can place over the repaired area, perhaps something that has the same 'brass' finish as the door hardware ?
 
To All,
One more thought, any ideas or suggestions where I might find a short length of brass finish corner strip I can place over the repaired area, perhaps something that has the same 'brass' finish as the door hardware ?
This place has a very wide variety & lots of widths. They aren't the cheapest place, but service is good: https://www.thecornerguardstore.com/brass-corner-guards/

If you want unequal angle widths, or more thickness and alloy (color) variety- perhaps one of these suppliers will have what you desire:

OnLineMaetals.com has standard brass angle stock in various gagues that can be used. Grainger, McMaster-Carr, smithmetal com and polishedmetals com are other sources. I would imagine that Zoro, Amazon, Temu and eBay stuff too.

Some come with beveled holes for brass, flat head screws. Some have plain holes for pan, oval or round head screws. Some are blank and you can drill or use carpet tape or adhesive.

Paul
 
I think it is more common to have wood trim around a door opening.

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Get some trim, paint it, nail it up and be done. Then you don’t have to match the texture or mess with the corner bead at all.
 
I think it is more common to have wood trim around a door opening.

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Get some trim, paint it, nail it up and be done. Then you don’t have to match the texture or mess with the corner bead at all.
However, to employ the use of wood trim, which I would agree, is by far more architecturally appealing, he'd need to add to the jamb to overcome the depth of the milcor.
 
To All,
One more thought, any ideas or suggestions where I might find a short length of brass finish corner strip I can place over the repaired area, perhaps something that has the same 'brass' finish as the door hardware ?
Each vendor will finish their hrdw. according to their own selected finish/s. Those, while appearing to be similar, are proprietary, so to match that finish you'll need to contact the mnfg. and ask that number.

The other obstacle is the method the finish, and follow-up maintenance of, raw bras.

Door hardware finish charts; https://www.trudoor.com/hardware-finishes/
 
However, to employ the use of wood trim, which I would agree, is by far more architecturally appealing, he'd need to add to the jamb to overcome the depth of the milcor.
I did this just last week. I removed some thin paneling off the walls and replaced it with 1/2” Sheetrock creating a 3/8” gap at the door jams.



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I put a 3/8” strip of wood in there and then installed the trim.

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