Walls & ceiling problems & advices

Advertise with us
SpartanEpoxies
Shop deals on ebay
House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
OK they say a picture's worth a thousand words.... The wires are not attached to the framing but to the bricks by anchors. My guess is that the anchors are becoming lose (just enough to move within the brick material) and cause friction noise.

Then if its whats going on, I fear the bracket one day let go and either cause a fire, a power outage, or worst, kill someone standing nearby.. There are kids all over the place here playing in the backyard.. That wouldnt be good at all.

I failed to mention that we have been having rather strong winds in the last few days.. Nevertheless, I think this shouldnt be heard.

2012-04-23_15-58-47_859.jpg

2012-04-23_15-59-30_230.jpg

2012-04-23_16-17-22_618.jpg

2012-04-23_16-17-42_843.jpg
 
If anything had come loose there, you would be able to see it in the picture. Don't let your immagination get away on you.
 
Are those cable wires hanging down over the gutters and sticking into the walls?
I can see where the wind blowing them around on those gutters could have the noise be transfured though the soffits.
That was one lazy guy who installed them that way. They should have been attached to the walls at least.
Other then all those power lines looking like a rats nest the brackets look fine in the pictures.
 
For whatever reasons, I was not notified as supposed by this forum of your reply of 04-24-2012.... Sorry for answering that late! Ive asked the neighbor (who installed the small cable wire hanging from the upper balcony) to tighten it up or somehow attach it firmly to the building. We'll see if that helps.

***

Coming back to the original topic of this thread (walls & ceilings), I managed to repair the damaged drywall tape on my own... LOTS of work, but Ive learned a great deal and now I feel comfident to do the same type of repair elsewhere (if need be!!). Since the person previously living here was smoking, I needed to hide the nicotine smell from the walls. I washed the walls & ceilings, rinsed them twice, and once very dried, I primed with Zinsser BIN.

I must admit, this is a tough paint to use.. It dries in a matter of minutes (not completely but enough to settle), and I am not sure what happened, but I got a weird finish on the ceiling. See attached pictures of the job. I think this is because there is different thickness of paint all over the place. Nevertheless, it feels smooth and there are no paint bumps or roll ridges. Should I put a second coat? Am I ready to paint? Obviously, a second coat would uniformize the finish (maybe?) but do I really need to apply a second coat?

What do you guys think?

IMG_0600.jpg

IMG_0602.jpg
 
Looks like you may not have had paint all the way around the roller cover while rolling.
On the ceiling it looks to be like you only rolled in one direction so it left rows.
 
Last edited:
I had lots of paint on the roll and carefully try not to apply too much pressure as i rolled... I indeed rolled only in one direction, back & forth. Should I apply a second coat from left to right?

What problems can I have if I paint right on top of that? Im probably going to use Benjamin Moore regal paint which is a very thick paint ..

First time painting with an extension pole, on a ceiling and with zinsser BIN....
 
So I am going to proceed with painting the ceiling and walls within the next few days or so.. And before I go ahead, I'd like to ask a few questions if anybody cares to help me!

First of all, should I apply a second coat of primer or leave it as is? Right now, you can see rows but its mainly in the small angled wall and the ceiling... The other walls are looking fine to me (as far as a primer can look good..)

Second question, probably the most important: how should I proceed with painting the room? OK I am comfortable painting walls, but a ceiling, not so much. Should I start first by painting the ceiling so any dripping, or drops on the walls dont affect the job too much? Also for the ceiling, should I start by brushing a fine edge in the corners and then roll them?

Every body have their techniques but I am sure yours are better than mine so looking forward to hearing what you can suggest!

Cheers!
 
If it was mine I would go over it with a second coat.
Reason being it will be to late to go back and fix it once the paint goes on.

All ways the cutting in around the ceiling first. Try to bring the paint out at least 4" so you do not keep hitting the wall with the roller.

I would then paint any trim, once dry cut in around all the trim and the inside corners and the ceiling.
Latex drys really fast so I found it works best to do the cut in then go right back over it with a second coat that way there's no areas that look lighter.
Now your ready for paint.
 
MMM ok.. The ceiling turned out well, but some walls did not. I am unsure about what Ive done wrong. When the paint was almost dry, I noticed a series of vertical bands (about same width) running all over the place. Glossy - dull - glossy - dull..... Here's my technique in a nutshell:

I dip the roll in the tray, roll about 6 to 8 times to spread the paint around the roll evenly, then I start painting. I paint this way:

1- I touch the wall, and start rolling up and down about 30% of the wall height.
2- I roll up & down about 60% of the wall,
3- I roll the whole height of the wall. By that time, the paint is nice and uniform.
Then..
4- I gently roll over the edge where I was coming from to ensure uniformity the paint and avoid a lap mark.
5- I also gently roll over the other edge (where I am going) to smooth the line out and ensure no future lap mark,

Then I dip again and move on...

Here the result (see attached picture). First time I have this happening to me... Usually, I must admit I am not very technical about painting, as I go with the flow.. It usually gives good results, but with this structured technique, I got crap..

I am confused because usually, this will happen IF I roll over a surface that is half dried, producing what I call a sandpaper finish.. In my case, I dont see any difference in surface finish, and the paint does not appear to be rougher in these areas..

Also its the second coat.. The first one was WAYYY better. Damn it. Can I give a 3rd coat?

Many thanks!!

0003.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks nealtw for your pointer.. I will try to redo this wall during the weekend and post back on my findings!

I however believe this has something to do with :

a) applying the paint when the room temperature was around 30C (which is a NO go!)
b) back rolling in different directions.. Should be always up or down but always the same...

Like I said, I will retry with cooler room and brush in the same direction..
 
I am wondering if you guys would be able to comment on this problem (yet another one!) I am having with installing a stupid ceiling fan to a cathedral sloped ceiling...

I have removed the old electric box and discovered (unless I am wrong) that there are NO studs running on this ceiling... I am wondering simply if it is customary or the builder simply screwed up again...

see attached picture .. This is what I can feel putting my hand (and arm) thru the opening for the electric box in the drywall.. All I can say is the electric box was screwed to the 3/4" boards and was wired with 3 wires (black/red/white & ground) and the red was capped of with a wire nut indicating ceiling fan usage.. Feeling on the same orientation as the 3/4" boards shown on the picture below, I cant find 2x4's... The way I see it, it is just 3/4" boards running from wall to wall with drywall screwed onto them... I think this must be impossible the ceiling would collapse?

Can anybody enlighten me????

Without real studs, I cant install this fan. They recommend minimum 35# which I fear I cant get with the 3/4" boards....

Untitled.jpg
 
Your pic suggested the "pink" is insulation. If it is then I have a solution. You will need a real box for a fan. You could sister a 2x4 onto the 3/4" furring that is already in the ceiling by pushing the 2x4 above it -- yes, this will compress the insulation. Fasten the 2x4 by shooting screws (2 1/2" or 3") through the ceiling drywall, the 3/4" furring and the 2x4. The two pieces of 2x4 should be at least 12"-14" long.

Now, you have a solid edge where you can screw the fan box with screws through the sides. Obviously, you need to fish the wires through the boc and make sure you have a wire connector that prevents sharp metal from cutting into the wires.

Follow the fan's installation directions as to wiring and mounting. Since the ceiling is slanted, you will need to let the mast hang freely to orient the fan properly.

Someone else might have another idea . . . This is what popped int my mind.

Good luck! :D
 
Last edited:
Hi guys! Thanks for replying... this house is driving me crazy.. not in a good way.. nothing was built for upgrades or modifications..

Unfortunately the ceiling was freshly painted a few days ago so cutting and reworking is out of question.

I am thinking of hiring a contractor to look at the issue and I am thinking the easiest way will be to install a 2x4 from within the attic ..

Really I can't believe there wouldn't be any structural members on that ceiling.. 20ft wide by 25ft long at 30deggrees.. just 3/4" furring holding up the drywall?? There will be a lawsuit coming up if its the case..
 
What you are missing is your ceiling has rafters like you would expect and then for what ever reason they strapped below that and hung the drywall from the strapping. If you can get to this area from the attic, the fix would be quit simple.
 
Yes, Neal is correct . . . acces from the attic gives you a lot of options. BUT, I get the sense you do not actually have acces due to the 30 degree slope. Do you want to clarify or just get somebody on-site to fix the problem?
 
Hi guys! I am not sure if I have access since the outlet box is roughly 8ft from the bottom of the ceiling .. at 30 degree, I fear the ceiling will collapse and ill end up 15 ft below....

Until I go in the attic I won't know for sure. Also I am thinking the roof could be pretty close to the ceiling and not leave much space to work with..

Ill post some pics as soon as possible ..

Thanks guys!!
 
In the meantime please let me ask you this question:

I have applied a first coat of paint on a wall but I noticed 2 or 3 dull spot that for whatever reason appears to be patches with putty that were not (or improperly ) primed prior to painting.

Before I apply the second coat, what should I do to eliminate these spots clearly showing up as the paint sheen is different? ?

Sand, prime, then continue from there? Right now I have put a second coat with a 4" roller, it's better but the marks are still visible..
 
Last edited:
What are you using for a primer?
If it's Kilnz, there's your problum.
Use Zinzer 123.
It's a sealing primer and stain blocker.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top