Want to install SANUS Full-Motion TV Mount on Metal Studs

[Letareus17]

Not 100% sure this is the right forum for this, but there is no TV/Video forum and this relates primarily to putting something on the wall, potentially opening up the wall, and wall studs.

I want to install a SANUS Full-Motion TV Mount (Model SLF428-B1) for my 65" TV, but it requires wooden studs or concrete. What's the best way to make this happen? I am a total novice when it comes to TV mounting. According to my building manager, the walls in my building have metal studs that are 16" on center (which I think means they are 16" apart" and are about 2" x 3".

These are the products involved in this installation:

Mount: SANUS Preferred 37"-90" Full-Motion TV Mount
Model SLF428-B1
24.7 lbs.

https://content.syndigo.com/asset/c553df21-5189-40c0-90ce-2d80e63d2e5a/original.pdf

TV: Sony A80CK 65"
50.7 lbs.

https://www.costco.com/sony-65%22-class---a80cl-series---4k-uhd-oled-tv---allstate-3-year-protection-plan-bundle-included-for-5-years-of-total-coverage*.product.4000187548.html

Soundbar: Sony HT-S2000 8.16 lbs.

Amazon.com

Soundbar Mount: SANUS Universal Soundbar TV Mount Kit: 3.52 lbs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09V8DW4FF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detail

All these products have already been purchased. I actually brought a guy over to install all this, and he told me that it requires wooden studs (not knowing anything about TV mounting, I thought one bracket was as good as another for whatever wall), and recommended that at least 2 floor to ceiling wooden beams/studs be put in behind the drywall, and that he's not able or willing to do that.

Afterwards, I did some research, and while the SANUS does require wooden studs or concrete for this mount, this guy did manage to install a similar mount on metal studs by putting a piece of wood in front of the drywall:

If that's a viable solution, someone please explain to me why putting a piece of wood on top of the wall works. And is it the best solution? I won't be able to do any of this myself regardless. What he did in the video is way beyond my capabilities. And I would prefer any wood reinforcement be done behind the wall so the TV has a lower profile (which is important to me). I would have my GC do it if he's willing/able. However, it may be extremely costly and messy to open up the wall and install anything there. What would be the best solution for me here?

 

[Snoonyb]

Interestingly, how drastically would, even as must of an 1-1/4", affect your desire for a, "low profile", appearance, be affected, when your stand-off, with the appliance attached, would likely already be about 5", + the thickness of the ply or OSB.

Since the wall framing is likely 25ga steel studs, opening the wall and inserting a 2x3 backing in the stud pocket, would satisfy the, suggested, mfg's. backing req.

Spend you money wisely.

 

[bud16415]

I actually did this same project last week in our bedroom with a very similar mount and a 55” TV. Luckily I had wood studs 16” OC, and my stud finder worked well letting me know where they were located. The kit came with four .25 lag bolts and going thru plaster there was no doubt it was up there way strong enough.



In your case the manufacture has to be very careful in what they suggest you can do, just as the guy you hired to do the work doesn’t want the responsibility of the TV falling and even possibly hurting someone. The thing with these mounts is they allow the TV to be extended out close to 18” from the wall, and that provides a big lever arm holding the rated weight.



I personally feel the steel studs if you can find and hit them correctly with proper screws suitable for self-drilling and tapping would most likely be ok. I do understand where it could also be questionable to someone doing it professionally.



The idea behind the plywood backer is that the guy in the video split the load up over 3 studs instead of 2, and likely used more than 2 screws into each stud. If he put 4 screws x 3 studs he now has 12 holding rather than 4. He could then use the .25” lag bolts into the plywood.



I think if you did it with good quality .75” thick plywood and then framed it with .75” quarter round mitered in the corners filled the screw holes where the plywood was held to the studs, then sand prime and paint it wouldn’t look too bad.



The other option is to remove the drywall floor to ceiling place in some new wooden studs solidly and then patching the drywall so it will all look like it was never touched.



Again I would be tempted if DIY to just try it using Tek Screws and if you don’t need it to pull way out from the wall maybe put a strap or something that limits it say 6-8”. Mine I angle the TV side to side and also top to bottom so it can be viewed from the bed and I only pull it out about 8”.

 

[Letareus17]

So after much discussion with the GC we used for the renovation, he is going to open up the wall to reinforce the metal studs with wood. Not sure entirely exactly what he's going to do, but I want to go into the discussion prepared. Given that we're opening up the wall, should we put a plywood board like the guy in the video did but behind the drywall, or put some partial 2x4's on the studs we're mounting it on, or put in full floor to ceiling wooden studs (I don't think this is the option he's going with)?

I called the manufacturer (Sanus) and they insisted that it be mounted on actual wooden studs, that reinforcing the metal studs wouldn't be sufficient. They said that the only thing they'd recommend is putting full floor to ceiling wooden beams behind the drywall, effectively giving me wooden studs. Otherwise I'd void my warranty. Are they just covering their behinds legally or should I do what they said?

 

[Snoonyb]

Your paying, so have the contractor open the wall, floor to ceiling, and insert whatever you want, wherever you want.

Both the top and bottom of the walls will be 20ga. steel channel.