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Weird fisher & paykel drain problem

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a4rye

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Hi, I have a fisher and paykel double dish drawer in my home that has developed a weird draining problem.

about every other use one of the dish drawers will not drain completely, usually a 1/4" or so of dirty water remains in the washer. I've checked the drain screens of both the top and bottom and they are both clear of debris. I have not yet snaked the drain lines because I figure that if it fully drains about 50% of the time that there must be some other problem.

Is this common with these washers? Thanks!
 

MWStout

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That's annoying. I don't have a ready answer, but is it possible that it is not a drainage issue? Is the washer stopping before the end of the cycle even though all water has not been emptied? Does it have some flood protection feature that is kicking in and shutting it down?
 

Kerrylib

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I have a Kenmore (made by Fisher Paykel) that occasionally does same thing. I've discovered that if you close the drawer and start it running, first thing that it does is starts to drain the water. Listen for the pump and water draining. When that stops, stop the dishdrawer and open it up to see if water is left in the bottom.

I don't have a real answer for you as to WHY it doesn't drain all the time, but yes I've noticed this happning to mine on occasion, so it isn't just yours doing something strange all on its own.
 

Rainsford

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Check to make sure there is a high loop in both drain lines. This keeps water from running from your sink drain into the drawers. To duplicate the condition fill the sink with water, then pull the plug. See if the water level rises inthe drawer. Also make sure the y connector at end of hose is horizontal (one hose not on top of the other) to keep one drawer from pumping into the other.
 

Kerrylib

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Good suggestions Rainsford. I'll have to take a look at the Y-connection on mine to see that it isn't set up to cause water to run back to the other unit. I did set it up with a good loop higher than the sink level, but you never know.
 

rldev

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Good suggestions Rainsford. I'll have to take a look at the Y-connection on mine to see that it isn't set up to cause water to run back to the other unit. I did set it up with a good loop higher than the sink level, but you never know.
Did you find a solution to your problem? I am having the same problem with my top drawer. I sometimes have to run a cycle 3 times to drain. Other times it works fine. The bottom drawer always works fine.
 

rnddude

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As previously stated, check the drain loop height, too low and it will back-drain into the tubs. Also, do you know how to strip all of the tub contents and clean it out? It may be contributing to the problem. It is easy to do....remove the silverware tray, then the entire wire rack, tipping it up from the REAR first. Then just remove the spray wand, it just sits there. Then rotate counteclockwise (I believe) the securing ring on the large stainless steel bottom and remove it entirely along with the debris filter. You will be amazed at how filthy it will be under there! Clean it well, remove all standing water with a sponge, reassemble everything in reverse order, CHECK THE DRAIN HOSES LOOP HEIGHT, THE TOP OF WHICH SHOULD BE AS HIGH AS THE HEIGHT OF THE UNIT IF POSSIBLE, then run a fast, non-eco cycle with a bit of soap and no dishes to clean the unit out. This has always worked for me. There is a really good forum site for Fischel-paykel I know of, mostly people bitching about how FP is garbage, but there is a treasure-trove of how-to-fix FP problems on it by the few believers who know how to keep this unique units running well.
 

Dabble-round

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I've had the same problem for about 3 months but its intermittent. The issue was a piece of egg shell in the drain between the filter ( where the water collects in the bottom of the draw) and the pump. I had removed all the racks, the silver filter and the pump about 6 times looking for the problem. In doing this it must have dislodged the shell a little to let the water past but it blocked a day or two later. Eventually I pushed a 4mm thick piece of flexible plastic wire through the hole in the casting of the draw, from the drain side too the pump area. If you have a squealing noise when the pump is working I've found broken glass in the pump area. Also, with this model of dish-draw, you need to clean around the top of the draw because the detergent used in the draw accumulates around the seal of the draw and will let water escape. It pools in the electrics causing a F1 default to flash. You need to remove the bottom draw and sponge up the water. You can then use a hair dryer to dry it completely or as I do now, leave the draw out for about 6 hours if its warm where you live
 

oncoals

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My 8 year old DD603 top drawer doesn’t completely drain anymore. The bottom drawer, which we use much less frequently, drains fine. I’ve snaked the complete upper drawer drain system. The drain hose was then removed, re-snaked, and high-pressure air (110 psi) and then high-pressure water (70 psi) pumped through it. It flows very well. There are no kinks in the ribbed, semi- rigid hose.

I reinstalled the hose, replacing the flap return-water valve in the hose and installed a new impeller/rotor, in the top drawer. Prior to installing the new rotor, I switched the upper and lower rotors, with no change in performance of the drainage for either drawer.

I’ve disconnected the drain hose from the sink drain and measured the fill and drain volumes for both the top and bottom drawers. I’ve done this for the Rinse, Normal, and Fast cycles. The Rinse cycle is characteristic. The bottom drawer fills 8 cups and drains 8 cups. The bottom drawer fills 8 cups and drains 5.5 – 6 cups. 2 ½ - 3 more cups of water remain in the upper drawer than remains in the lower drawer after the Rinse cycle completes.

Visual observation of the output of the drain hose into a bucket reveals that the flow from the upper drawer is much weaker than the lower. The drain system of the upper drawer is clear and un-kinked and a fish-tape with a wad of cloth passes through well.

Eliminating a drain-line problem; I conjecture that the upper drawer motor has diminished in power output or something has gone wrong with the controller board. I looked at the electrical connections on the bottom of the upper drawer and they appear all to still be secure. I’ve considered swapping the electrical harness between the upper and lower drawers, but decided not to because they are different lengths and there are more connectors than want to mess with.

Suggestions or recommendations?
 

MadeInNZ

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This is a common problem, the fault will either be a piece of debris stuck in the drain tube from the sump to the pump impellor which will need to have a firm 4mm (preferably plastic) rod passed through the hole , remove the impellor before clearing the tube and turn off the power to the unit for safety. Or it is a cross draining issue which can be resolved with this part. http://www.genuineapplianceparts.net/index.php?categoryid=1&productid=7
 
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JanetSchwartz4

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I use my dish drawers only as drain racks -- I never use the dishwasher for its actual purpose. Evens so, my bottom drawer collects with water that never evaporates over night. (My top drawer works fine.) Can someone please tell me what I should do? The unit is only 2 weeks old. I can't imagine that anything is stuck, anywhere, as I have not used soap, and the dishes are totally clean when they go in there to dry, and the unit is only 2 weeks old.
 

joegrent

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As previously stated, check the drain loop height, too low and it will back-drain into the tubs. Also, do you know how to strip all of the tub contents and clean it out? It may be contributing to the problem. It is easy to do....remove the silverware tray, then the entire wire rack, tipping it up from the REAR first. Then just remove the spray wand, it just sits there. Then rotate counteclockwise (I believe) the securing ring on the large stainless steel bottom and remove it entirely along with the debris filter. You will be amazed at how filthy it will be under there! Clean it well, remove all standing water with a sponge, reassemble everything in reverse order, CHECK THE DRAIN HOSES LOOP HEIGHT, THE TOP OF WHICH SHOULD BE AS HIGH AS THE HEIGHT OF THE UNIT IF POSSIBLE, then run a fast, non-eco cycle with a bit of soap and no dishes to clean the unit out. This has always worked for me. There is a really good forum site for Fischel-paykel I know of, mostly people bitching about how FP is garbage, but there is a treasure-trove of how-to-fix FP problems on it by the few believers who know how to keep this unique units running well.
Care to share the links? I also PM'd you
 

bugbee

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I have really liked my stacked Fischer & Pakel dishwashers.
Have been using them for going on 8 years now, did upgrade the hose parts in the draws and have had to replace the motor Rotor once so far.
My question: the top drawer has not been draining? Cleaned and checked everything and seems to be in good condition? Why has this not been a problem until recently? Do you have to have use an air gap?
When I 1st installed these dishwashers I did not put in the air vent as the instructions did not call for it. I know some cities have that as code but I sure like my soap dispenser more than an air lock gadget on the counter. Could this be the issue?
Thanks for all this great networking!:)
 

Enviro

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I have a bottom draw which will not drain when pushed in. Thought it might be a hose kink. Did the hold lock and pause/start for 5 sec work my way through to P1 and pressed the lock button and the drawer drained. Filled it with water and did it again pushed in and it drained. Put it back in auto did a rinse and no drain? WHY does work in test mode but not auto?
 

sharpie

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Hi, I had this problem of the unused dishdrawer filling with the dirty water from the other dishdrawer that was in use. YUCK! I read that each drawer supposedly has a rubber flap to prevent cross draining, but they don't work very well, obviously, and it's a pain in the butt to replace.

I found a dual air gap on ebay and that solved my problem with cross draining and it was simple to install. It's basically 2 separate air gaps, one for each dishdrawer, making it impossible for the dirty waste water from one dishdrawer to flow back into the other dishdrawer. It fits where your single air gap mounts on your sink top.

Why doesn't Fisher Paykel provide this solution when you purchase their dual dishwashers? It fixed my problem. Hope it helps. Just search ebay for "Dishwasher Dual Air Gap" and you'll find this product.
 

nealtw

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Hi, I had this problem of the unused dishdrawer filling with the dirty water from the other dishdrawer that was in use. YUCK! I read that each drawer supposedly has a rubber flap to prevent cross draining, but they don't work very well, obviously, and it's a pain in the butt to replace.

I found a dual air gap on ebay and that solved my problem with cross draining and it was simple to install. It's basically 2 separate air gaps, one for each dishdrawer, making it impossible for the dirty waste water from one dishdrawer to flow back into the other dishdrawer. It fits where your single air gap mounts on your sink top.

Why doesn't Fisher Paykel provide this solution when you purchase their dual dishwashers? It fixed my problem. Hope it helps. Just search ebay for "Dishwasher Dual Air Gap" and you'll find this product.
Good tip and welcome to the site.
 

fredmacias8

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As previously stated, check the drain loop height, too low and it will back-drain into the tubs. Also, do you know how to strip all of the tub contents and clean it out? It may be contributing to the problem. It is easy to do....remove the silverware tray, then the entire wire rack, tipping it up from the REAR first. Then just remove the spray wand, it just sits there. Then rotate counteclockwise (I believe) the securing ring on the large stainless steel bottom and remove it entirely along with the debris filter. You will be amazed at how filthy it will be under there! Clean it well, remove all standing water with a sponge, reassemble everything in reverse order, CHECK THE DRAIN HOSES LOOP HEIGHT, THE TOP OF WHICH SHOULD BE AS HIGH AS THE HEIGHT OF THE UNIT IF POSSIBLE, then run a fast, non-eco cycle with a bit of soap and no dishes to clean the unit out. This has always worked for me. There is a really good forum site for Fischel-paykel I know of, mostly people bitching about how FP is garbage, but there is a treasure-trove of how-to-fix FP problems on it by the few believers who know how to keep this unique units running well.
What is the site you are referring to for Fisher Paykel?
 

mamadorf

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I loved my previous ones so much, I got a new set for my remodeled kitchen.
I am currently having continual problems with my NEW dish drawers,
Water often stops draining & collects in the bottom. I have been told by Fisher & Paykel that I don't rinse properly, & things are getting stuck in the hose somewhere causing the dishwasher not to drain & that it is NOT a dishwasher problem. I am not doing anything different that I haven't done in the past. One would think they would make improvements over 15 years, not get worse. I am currently very angry about this, because they were built in, as integrated pieces, matching my cabinets. HARD TO REPLACE, now.

Hi, I have a fisher and paykel double dish drawer in my home that has developed a weird draining problem.

about every other use one of the dish drawers will not drain completely, usually a 1/4" or so of dirty water remains in the washer. I've checked the drain screens of both the top and bottom and they are both clear of debris. I have not yet snaked the drain lines because I figure that if it fully drains about 50% of the time that there must be some other problem.

Is this common with these washers? Thanks!
 

Bill D

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After 17 years of working OK, the top drawer in our Fisher & Paykel DD603 started having water left over like others on this thread. I found it was not a drainage issue, but it was going into "pause" mode (the icon was blinking). Pressing the "Start" button made it continue for a while until it randomly paused again. Removing the front door cover revealed that the Controller module's plastic tabs had broken off and it was wobbling around causing it to randomly malign slightly with the light pipes on upper right side of the door. This is how it detects if the door is open. The controller was intermittently detecting that the door was opening and put it in Pause mode while it still had water in it. I fixed this misalignment by holding the Controller module in the proper position with duct tape and the problem went away.
 

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