What causes electrical outlets to just stop working?

[thealfa]

I've never worked on electrical stuff at home so I'm not sure what caused an electrical outlet to just stop working. It doesn't have a reset button either.

Also I've attached a picture of a light fixture that used to work just by pressing a button but it just stopped working. What caused it to stop working? I don't know how to open it up to see what's going on with it.

 

[afjes_2016]

What causes electrical outlets (receptacles) to stop working - there are many reasons why something like this can happen so the first thing we have to do is process of elimination so we can narrow down the causes.

Since you are very limited in residential electrical experience we can only offer just so many suggestions before you have to say "this is beyond my ability". It is ok to admit this when the time comes. It could be something very simple or it could be something complex.

Just like when you go to the doctor you can't just say you don't feel well and you expect the doctor to know what is wrong with you. You have to give as many symptoms as possible to narrow down the possible cause.

It doesn't have a reset button either.

There does not have to be a reset button on the receptacle itself. If this receptacle and light is on a circuit which is protected by a GFCI upstream this could cause the circuit after the GFCI receptacle not to work if the GFCI receptacle tripped (the GFCI receptacle if this is the problem does not even have to be in the same room).

Narrow down the possible cause:
#1 - Besides this light fixture and this receptacle you show in the pictures is there anything else so far that is not functioning?
#2 - Have you checked to see if a breaker tripped in the breaker panel? Do you know how to test/see if a breaker has tripped?
#3 - I would go to each GFCI receptacle in the entire house and press the "Test" button and then the "Reset" button on every one of them. Use the very tip of your finger to press firmly inward on these buttons. Yes, every one; does not matter it's location in the home compared to where this problem is located. This is what an electrician would do to start with along with making sure no breakers tripped in the panel.

Once you check these 3 things get back to us and let us know your findings. If you find any GFCIs that you can not reset make note of where they are located.

 

[jik lower]

A few months ago, I was over at my niece's house for dinner. After we ate, I went to charge my phone but noticed one of the outlets wasn’t working. My niece mentioned that it had been acting up for a while, and they weren’t sure why. The first thing that came to mind was to check the breaker box. I got up, looked through the breakers, and sure enough, one of them had tripped. I flipped it off and back on, and the outlet started working again. It felt good to fix it without much hassle!

Later that evening, another little issue popped up. A small lamp next to the couch, the kind you turn on with a button, suddenly stopped working. My niece guessed the button might be broken. I took a closer look and noticed the lamp’s cover could be opened with a screwdriver. Once I got it open, I saw that one of the wires had come loose. I reattached it, and the lamp was back in business. That night taught me that small electrical problems often have simple fixes—provided you’re careful and follow safety basics!

 

[PJB12]

I work industrial and distribution, but do the required Family And Friend house freebies. Very often in houses I find that receptacle outlets or switches stop working because "upstream" someone put two wires under one receptacle screw. Sooner or later, heating and cooling cycles will loosen the screw enough so that a wire comes off.

Also often found are receptacle outlets that are the spring loaded Push-In kind. The wire leaving to the next receptacle loosens and burns off. Those type I advise against- strongly.

Now What?
Assuming you don't know the path, with power off, start opening receptacle outlets and switches. Look for a Fall Off or a loose wire that is about to fall off.

If you think you know the path (or can guess), open the first in line that is not working and if that is not it, back up to one that is working to seek a fallen off wire leading to the first dead outlet.


I'd have to say that 90% of the friend calls for suddenly dead receptacle or light I fix are from one of the above. The other ten percent are from twist on wire connectors (Wire Nut is a brand of those) where a wire fell out or was nicked during stripping and eventually broke.

Happy Hunting!
Paul

 

[afjes_2016]

Now What?
Assuming you don't know the path, with power off, start opening receptacle outlets and switches. Look for a Fall Off or a loose wire that is about to fall off.

If you think you know the path (or can guess), open the first in line that is not working and if that is not it, back up to one that is working to seek a fallen off wire leading to the first dead outlet.

I would suggest that before opening receptacle boxes and checking them that we make sure it is not a tripped GFCI or tripped breaker first. The OP does not have experience with residential electrical so this may be a bit too much too quick and may not even be necessary yet.

I suggest 1st to look for a tripped GFCI receptacle/outlet or breaker and let the OP come back with their findings and then take it from there.

 

[havasu]

I'm always helping friends with GFCI resetting. There is never a rhyme nor reason for where they are located.

 

[thealfa]

I did check the gfci breaker panel and none was switched off. The receptacle outlet that isn't working is in the living room, yet other receptacle outlets in the living room works. So could the issue not be in the gfci breaker panel? The non working receptacle outlet does seem a bit unusually "tight" when I tried to charge my phone there to see if it's working. This receptacle outlet stopped working months ago, that's why I'm curious how to make it work again.

I've attached a picture of the gfci breaker panel located in the basement. I've switched off and then turned on the ones I think would fix the dead receptacle outlet. Still not working.

 

[havasu]

You took a picture of your breaker panel. This is a ground fault circuit, so it will shut off when needed, completely independent of the circuit breaker.

 

[PJB12]

I did check the gfci breaker panel and none was switched off. The receptacle outlet that isn't working is in the living room, yet other receptacle outlets in the living room works. So could the issue not be in the gfci breaker panel? The non working receptacle outlet does seem a bit unusually "tight" when I tried to charge my phone there to see if it's working. This receptacle outlet stopped working months ago, that's why I'm curious how to make it work again.

I've attached a picture of the gfci breaker panel located in the basement. I've switched off and then turned on the ones I think would fix the dead receptacle outlet. Still not working.

You mentioned Living Room, Thealfa.
Please don't take any disrespect from this reply. It's offered with respect and as a suggestion for something that is often overlooked.

In living rooms, there is often a wall switch that controls a receptacle outlet or half of it. And sometimes the switch also controls a wall sconce or two. Usually the sconces have a push button on the fixture for individual control. (Popular in the 40's and 50's)

I've had several times people call me because a living room receptacle outlet suddenly does not work. So often it is simply a switch that got turned off. And, in my home someone whose name will not be mentioned (me) sometimes forgets and wonders why the table lamp won't turn on. A quick flip of the forgotten switch solves the mystery!

Maybe make sure the switches are on and, if you are comfortable working with electricity, that the switch is good.
Paul

 

[afjes_2016]

In living rooms, there is often a wall switch that controls a receptacle outlet or half of it. And sometimes the switch also controls a wall sconce or two. Usually the sconces have a push button on the fixture for individual control. (Popular in the 40's and 50's)

Excellent point and something that can be overlooked quite easily by a home owner.

@thealfa PJB12 brought up a good point. You just may never had realized that a wall light switch controls this receptacle and wall sconce. Take a lamp or radio and plug it into one of the spots on the receptacle. Try flipping the light switches in the room. If the lamp/radio does not go on after flipping all of the switches in the room pull the plug out of the receptacle and place it in the other slots and do the same flipping all of the light switches in the room. It is possible that you just never noticed that a light switch controls the receptacle and wall sconce.

If the above, flipping all light switches in the room does not solve the issue then again, you need to test every GFCI receptacle in the house. Any receptacle with a "Test"/"Reset" button on them no matter where they are located in the house, the kitchen, garage, outdoors, basement, everywhere. Press the "test" button with the very tip of your finger and then the "reset" button on each GFCI in the house. It is possible that a GFCI receptacle may be protecting this downstream receptacle in your living room.

You refer to your breaker panel as a GFCI breaker panel. This is not correct terminology. It is a circuit breaker panel. A circuit breaker panel can have individual GFCI breakers in it. According to the picture of your panel you do not have any GFCI breakers in it. Are you sure you do not have any other breaker panels in the house, garage etc?

Sometimes when a breaker trips it is very difficult to tell just by looking at the breakers to see if a breaker has tripped. What I suggest you do is start at the first top left breaker, gently wiggle the breaker handle side to side and get used to how much play is in the breaker. Do not turn it on and off doing this. Then go to the top right and do the same thing to that breaker, repeat the same procedure on each and every breaker on the panel. You will find that they all have the same resistance when wiggling the breaker handles. If you find one that has far more "play" in it then push that breaker handle all the way to the "off" position (you will hear it click) and then back to the "on" position. This is the proper way to reset a breaker.

Report back after you have tried the above.

 

[PJB12]

You just may never had realized that a wall light switch controls this receptacle and wall sconce. Take a lamp or radio and plug it into one of the spots on the receptacle. Try flipping the light switches in the room.

Or, if it is like my "Fun House" was, the switch might be in adjacent room. A hallway switch operated a receptacle outlet in the living room. A switch at the bottom of the stiars operated an outlet in a 2nd floor room.

Are you sure you do not have any other breaker panels in the house, garage etc?

The photo shows Circuts 38/40 for a sub panel. Gotta check that load center, too.

Sometimes when a breaker trips it is very difficult to tell just by looking at the breakers to see if a breaker has tripped. What I suggest you do is start at the first top left breaker, gently wiggle the breaker handle side to side and get used to how much play is in the breaker.

That's a very good point, Afjes_2016!
The new Eaton BR (as shown above) and the older Cutler Hammer BR will be obviously tripped with a short circuit, but not with an over-current trip. Same with the older ITE snap-ins.

With over-current trip, the handle is just wiggly-loose and looks at a glance to be still on. (Square D's older QO = Halfway handle for over-current trip and red flag with short circuit.)

Wise Idea-
At least once per year, cycle every circuit breaker from on to off to on. Do this twice a year if they are in a damp location such as outdoors or in an unconditioned area of a basement.
And don't forget to test GFI devices monthly.

Paul

 

[thealfa]

I think I've tried most of the suggestions, still no luck.

There is another circuit breaker panel upstairs but from what's written in it, it seems like it's only for that floor. I've switched off then on each one of them.

There was 1 gfci receptacle in the upstairs bathroom that was not lit up green, turns out turning on the (light) switch would turn on the gfci receptacle. I did press "test" then "reset" on all the gfci that I could find in the house. I'm still not sure what a gfci in the basement would have anything to do with the dead receptacle in the living room though. There aren't any gfci receptacle in the living room.

 

[thealfa]

Another thing; the dead receptacle outlet sort of shares a wall with the dead light fixture I posted at the start of the thread (see pictures). The dead receptacle is downstairs while the dead light fixture is located going up the stairs (same wall). Maybe that's significant?

 

[afjes_2016]

I'm still not sure what a gfci in the basement would have anything to do with the dead receptacle in the living room though.

Logically you are correct in thinking this; unfortunately this does happen. Even a GFCI in a garage may kill a circuit that leads into the house. When you think of GFCIs you have to forget logic when it comes to placement of the GFCI receptacle and what downstream receptacles and lights they may control/protect.

I went on a call once where a home owner lost power to the 2 bathrooms receptacles; 1 on the first floor and 1 on the second floor, 2 receptacles in the kitchen. No GFCI breakers in the panel. But, next to the panel was a GFCI receptacle which happened to be tripped. I asked the home owner on the phone if they checked all GFCIs in the house and the reply was "yes". Once I reset this GFCI next to the breaker panel all those receptacle now had power. This GFCI next to the panel was in the basement. Who ever wired decided it was much cheaper to use one circuit protected by this GFCI in the basement next to the panel. This is why we tell people to check ALL GFCIs in the house regardless of their locations. A circuit does not necessarily power receptacles in one room only; it may extend to other rooms maybe not even on the same floor but down below.

Even a SABC (small appliance branch circuit) that starts in the kitchen and extends to the dining room which is protected by a GFCI receptacle on the kitchen counter top could protect a receptacle in the dining room or even extend to the living room; again, reason to check ALL GFCIs no matter their locations. GFCI receptacles and breakers should really be checked monthly anyway by pressing test and then reset buttons. The newer ones don't require monthly testing.

A light on a GFCI is almost meaningless. Reason is because there is no standard as to what lights on a GFCI mean. What one manufacturer does with a light on a GFCI receptacle does not follow what another manufacturer does with a light on a GFCI. The only way to tell what a light does is to have the original instructions on hand or know the model of the GFCI and look it up. Other than that you just run the normal press "test" and then "reset". If a GFCI will not reset then that means either it is faulty or not power going to it.

If you are absolutely sure that all GFCIs are operating, no breaker in either of the panels is tripped then the next step would be to actually shut the power off to this circuit and start taking out the receptacles from the box to check the wiring. You say you have never worked on electrical before so maybe you have reached your limit with your troubleshooting and time to bring in an electrician as the only next step would be to actually work on the circuit pulling out receptacles, checking the wiring etc and of course this would require you to be sure you have shut off the proper circuit so you don't get hit (electrically).

 

[PJB12]

Logically you are correct in thinking this; unfortunately this does happen. Even a GFCI in a garage may kill a circuit that leads into the house. When you think of GFCIs you have to forget logic when it comes to placement of the GFCI receptacle and what downstream receptacles and lights they may control/protect.

That is a very good point. For example, in my home GFI receptacles and dead fronts are scattered all over the basement. After figuring out who was who, I put a chart in the load center. I gives each a letter name and the chart shows where it is located. At the circuit directory, if a circuit has a GFI, a note says "GFI A", "GFI B", etc. Someday, I'll move them all to one location or use GFCI breakers- maybe.

A light on a GFCI is almost meaningless.

That's very true! I have some where the light is on if power is on the line side, regardless whether the unit is tripped or not. I have another where the light is on when it is tripped. Most of mine, the light is on when good, off when tripped.

Another consideration is power interruptions and GFI devices. I have a couple that have to be manually reset if power is lost.

f you are absolutely sure that all GFCIs are operating, no breaker in either of the panels is tripped then the next step would be to actually shut the power off to this circuit and start taking out the receptacles from the box to check the wiring. You say you have never worked on electrical before so maybe you have reached your limit with your troubleshooting and time to bring in an electrician

My bet at this point, based on what you reported, is that the above is the next step.
Way back at #4 I explained common things you may find when you inspect for this. I did not, and should have, added to #4 to only do this if you are certain that the power is off and only if you are comfortable working this project.

A service call to an electrician most likely will be very quick and relatively inexpensive. You can also ask for a "once over" check of your load center & the sub panel.

 

[Ron Van]

That is a very good point. For example, in my home GFI receptacles and dead fronts are scattered all over the basement.

This has been said many times but I’ll add my example. Our old house had a receptacle on the back porch that Ruby used to plug in outdoor lights. When they stopped working, I found that a GFCI in the upstairs primary en-suite had tripped. At first I thought, that’s weird, but really, it makes sense since the upstairs en-suite was about 8 feet above the back porch outlet. It just wasn’t a convenient location after the walls were put on.

After figuring out who was who, I put a chart in the load center.

I think this is an excellent point. When everything is working, the homeowner should take a couple hours and figure out what circuit every outlet, every light switch, and every appliance is on. It makes troubleshooting much easier.

 

[afjes_2016]

Reference to mapping circuits: When I did a rewire of a house I always made up a mapping of each floor; ceiling looking down view and marked all receptacle, lights and light switches. Something like the one below. I also marked next to each receptacle, switch etc the breaker number. You can find these on the Net. You can also just hand draw each floor/room and then mark everything. I would then place the sheets of layouts in a sheet protector and place it either on the panel door or next to it. There is only so much you can write on the little tab papers next to each breaker. This makes it so much easier when you need to troubleshoot. Invite a neighbor over, crack open a few beers and then say "oh, by the way, can you help me with a little project?" and map out the house by floor including any outdoor lights/receptacles. If you don'thave a breaker finder just use a lamp or radio

 

[thealfa]

Regarding turning off then on each switches on the breaker panel; couldn't I just turn off then on the 1 main switch at the bottom of the breaker panel? Or is it ideal to turn off then on each individual switches on the breaker panel, including the main switch as well?

Must I turn off or unplug anything off the electrical outlets prior to doing this? Such as microwave, refrigerator, personal computers, heat/ac, and so on or it's not necessary?

The pic I posted above of one of the breaker panel has an "off", "trip", and "on" written on the 1 main switch located at the bottom of the breaker panel. Should I just switch that off then on and see what happens?

I'm curious if this receptacle tester sold by harbor freight would read what the problem is with the receptacle:

https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical-receptacle-tester-with-gfci-diagnosis-63929.html

 

[afjes_2016]

I had to reread this thread to refresh my memory.

In your post #18
A.) Are you asking how to map out each receptacle and light so you have an electrical floor plan of your home?
OR
B.) Are you asking how to pin point the circuit that has partially failed with the receptacle and light fixture not working?

The plug in GFCI/tester (you link to in post #18) will show you only certain possible issues with a receptacle/circuit. This is fine for very basic troubleshooting.

Circuit Breaker tracer will aid you in mapping out the house electrical system so there is far less flipping circuit breakers while you map.

Turning off the main breaker in the main panel will shut off all power to everything including power to the sub panel.

With all due respect though my mind is telling me that you may be better off calling in an electrician to find this problem. I say this because your questions truly tell me that you have very little understanding of how the electrical system works in your home. This is fine, it is a complicated theory and takes time to learn. However, one must know their limits especially when it comes to electricity.

We could guide you as to each step of the way but you lack the basic understanding/knowledge and it is hard for us to keep track of every step of the way to prevent you from being hurt or causing more dangerous issues.

This is what your questions are telling me. Again, no disrespect intended; I/we just don't want anyone to get hurt or cause damage to their electrical system.