Whirlpool direct driver washer won't spin

Discussion in 'General Appliance Discussion' started by tepolt, Mar 29, 2008.

  1. Mar 29, 2008 #1

    tepolt

    tepolt

    tepolt

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    Hello,

    I have a direct drive Whirlpool Washer Model GSX9885JT0 that will not spin. The last time it ran it went through all cycles and drained/spun out, however when the extra spin sycle was selected, it did not spin, you could just hear the drain solenoid activating-that was it. The motor does not run at all when spin is selected. I have put a jumper across the lid switch so I have eliminated this as the problem. I have measured all motor winding resistance values and all are within correct range. I also recently tested the wiring harness from the control board to the motor-all have continuity. I tested the motor capacitor and it tests ok with an ohmeter-charging and discharging in both directions with no measured short. I tested the motor actuation switch and no problems found there. I replaced the control board-it still won't spin-(I thought there was a bad solenoid on it). One of my suspicions is that the off-balance solenoid switch may be bad. The electrical schematic states that the coil resistance of this solenoid should measure 1.2 ohms-when I measure it directly with its switch closed, open it measures ~1150 ohms. The whirlpool tech sheet on this model states that by unplugging connector P5 and checking the resitance between P5-1 (BK) ans P5-3 (GY) that it should be near 1200 ohms with the lid closed. I think this is a misprint because I read 1.2 ohms which the tech sheet states as the 1200 is closer to the open contact resistance of the off-balance solenoid switch coil. I have also measured the voltage at the motor when I put it into spin mode, it read about 18 volts in several locations. The motor does not hum or smoke. When I run the neutral drain/spin test the LED's come on but nothing happens other than the drain solenoid that makes a big noise. Any suggestions on what to do next-I am kind of at a loss right now. Is there a way to create a cheater cord to energize the motor to see if it works if I removed it?
    Thanks-Ted
     
  2. Mar 29, 2008 #2

    tepolt

    tepolt

    tepolt

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    I just tried to run a normal cycle-it will not agitate either. I checked the motor coupler and it is fine. When I pulled the motor off I was able to turn the drive to the transmission and it did turn the tub when I moved it.
    Ted
     
  3. Mar 30, 2008 #3

    tepolt

    tepolt

    tepolt

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    I figured it out! There was a main power wire-white-that was burned out on the inside and not visible to the naked eye. when I traced the power that's where it stopped, so I did a through connection continuity test on the connector. While I was doing this the wire broke off the rest of the way. I soldered the wire back on and secured/insulated with silicone. It's working fine now! Through connections are always important to check.
    Thanks-Ted
     
  4. Mar 30, 2008 #4

    Square Eye

    Square Eye

    Square Eye

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    Gee,
    We were so much help! :)

    I hope you still come back lol
     

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