Window Flashing During Siding Replacement

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mmulk123

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I'm preparing to replace the siding on my house with vinyl. The one part I'm unsure of is how to properly seal around the windows. The previous owners had replacement windows installed about 10 years ago. The house was built in the 60s in Massachusetts. I removed a small portion of the old siding to see what I was dealing with. I attached a few images for reference.
I'm planning on wrapping the house with Tyvek. All of the installation documents I found are for new flanged widows. Does anybody have advice on the best way to handle around these windows? I could remove a little more of the old materials and take a few more pictures if it would help clear things up.
 

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Someone took the lazy way out when they wrapped that window and did not cut that old caulking out so the metal would cover the whole side of the old brick molding.
Now your stuck with removing those wrong nails they used and bending some coil stock in the shape of an L and slipping it in behind the coil stock that's already there.
You start at the bottom, then the sides, top last.
I'd want at least 4" against the wall.
 
Someone took the lazy way out when they wrapped that window and did not cut that old caulking out so the metal would cover the whole side of the old brick molding.
Now your stuck with removing those wrong nails they used and bending some coil stock in the shape of an L and slipping it in behind the coil stock that's already there.
You start at the bottom, then the sides, top last.
I'd want at least 4" against the wall.

I was able to remove some of the aluminum. The wood underneath is in tough shape. I was hoping to get away with your suggestion of sliding a new piece under the current coil stock, but I wanted to make sure everything was sealed properly. I was thinking of trying to get flexible flashing tape behind the window and they caulking the window to that flashing. Then finishing the whole thing with new aluminum that overlaps the wall as you suggested. Does that approach make sense? Or did you think another approach would be better here?


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By doing what you have done you have just made a whole lot more work for yourself.
It does not matter what it looks like under the metal as long as there no rotten wood under the metal.
Who cut off the bottom off that window stop molding, it should have been left in place, and the bottom plastic strip cut to length to fit.
Did that piece of metal on the sill slide all the way under the sealing strip?
It should have been long enough to just touch against the back side of the window stool.
To each there own, but when I wrap a window I use a zaws- all and cut into the jambs and that window stop molding on each side so my metal slides under the bottoms of the jambs and stop, so there would be no huge gap at the bottom like you have there.
 
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