Draining Hot Water Heater - Nothing comes out!

[thatguy188]

Hey there!

So as a brand new homeowner, the first thing I'd like to do is go through a yearly checklist since Im not sure when or if certain things have been done in the past (House was built in 2011 so fairly new!)

What I am trying to do is drain the hot water heater. It's electric and I have drained a hot water heater before, but this one I just can't get to drain!

Here is what I've done so far:

Hook up water hose to drain valve, shut off main water supply, shut off W/H at Breaker Box, opened 2 hot faucets in the house, and opened drain valve.

Nothing came out.

Did some googling, and this time turned main water supply on, trying to "flush".

Still, nada.

Removed water hose, tried to open drain valve again. Nothing.

Opened Pressure Relief Valve and water came gushing out the outside of my home (its connected with a hose), opened drain valve again, still nothing, very very small trickle.

Then I saw only about taking a metal clothes hanger and shoving it into the drain valve to try and loosen any sediments. Problem is, I can't even get a metal hanger in there. The opening is very very narrow inside the drain valve (picture attached of drain valve).

Basically I've done tried everything I can think of to get the thing to drain, but it won't budge.

Does anyone here have any ideas/suggestions for me?

Thank You!

 

[slownsteady]

I suppose it's possible that the drain valve is faulty. Did it offer any resistance when you turned the handle? Have you checked the hose? Does it have a nozzle on the end?

 

[thatguy188]

I suppose it's possible that the drain valve is faulty. Did it offer any resistance when you turned the handle? Have you checked the hose? Does it have a nozzle on the end?

Yes there is definitely resistance when turning the drain valve. If I opened it about "half way", it very very VERY slowly trickles out. No the hose doesn't have an attachment on it. It's a very long hose so I was thinking maybe that's the issue so that's when I took it off completely, still nada.

 

[Snoonyb]

Yes there is definitely resistance when turning the drain valve. If I opened it about "half way", it very very VERY slowly trickles out. No the hose doesn't have an attachment on it. It's a very long hose so I was thinking maybe that's the issue so that's when I took it off completely, still nada.

With the heater cool and the hose connected and the valve closed, remove the bonnet nut and open the valve, however, continuing to turn the valve stem can result in removing it which can result in a flood if the calcium plugging the valve now, breaks loose.

If it does not and the water flow remains at a trickle, try inserting a screwdriver into the stem hole to break the calcium plug.

Once you break it loose, quickly insert the stem to mitigate the flood.

 

[oldognewtrick]

What about getting a male-male adapter, hooking a garden hose to the drain and back flushing with a couple faucets on down stream?

 

[beachguy005]

You could try removing the top heating element and using the hose to siphon out the tank. You'll get some water out of it but most will be below it. Bleed off as much as you can from the relief valve. Completely remove the drain valve and you'll be able to see what's causing the blockage.
I had an issue with mine which was slow. Drained it then found about 2 inches of deposits on the bottom. Used a poker, a shop vac and a modified hose to get most of it out,

 

[slownsteady]

You mentioned turning the valve halfway; what happened when you turned it all the way?
Remember that it's not a faucet valve and that it requires several turns to fully open (you probably know that, but it can't hurt to mention)

 

[KULTULZ]

What about getting a male-male adapter, hooking a garden hose to the drain and back flushing with a couple faucets on down stream?

Most likely the bottom of the WH is filled with sediment and the small opening of the valve will not allow drainage.

You are going to have to douche and then upgrade the drain valve once emptied.

 

[frodo]

..........................

 

[bud16415]

My advice is let a sleeping dog lie.

I have never drained one. I never thought you get enough of what has built up in there out to make it worth the risk the problems it might cause.

 

[thatguy188]

You mentioned turning the valve halfway; what happened when you turned it all the way?
Remember that it's not a faucet valve and that it requires several turns to fully open (you probably know that, but it can't hurt to mention)

When I turn it halfway open, a very very light trickle comes out, when I open it fully it acts like its closed and nothing comes out.

With the heater cool and the hose connected and the valve closed, remove the bonnet nut and open the valve, however, continuing to turn the valve stem can result in removing it which can result in a flood if the calcium plugging the valve now, breaks loose.

If it does not and the water flow remains at a trickle, try inserting a screwdriver into the stem hole to break the calcium plug.

Once you break it loose, quickly insert the stem to mitigate the flood.

Which bonnet nut are you talking about? I've tried sticking a metal wire hanger in the valve opening to get in there to maybe break something lose, but that seems impossible as the valve itself is very narrow. I've attached a picture looking inside the drain valve. Is it normal to be so narrow?

 

[KULTULZ]

My advice is let a sleeping dog lie.

I have never drained one. I never thought you get enough of what has built up in there out to make it worth the risk the problems it might cause.

Let me ask you a question... (I come in peace)

Depending on the sediment/hardness of the water and without proper filtration, the sediment will build to such a level as to possibly interfere with the bottom burner (a gas WH is completely negated once sediment is allowed to build up) and each time the dip tube introduces water, the sediment is stirred causing it to be drawn into the hot water distribution system possibly fouling pipes and fixtures.

Same thing with periodic testing of a TPRV, if it is fouled you won't know until you can inspect it while resting in the back yard or the neighbor's back yard.

 

[user 4883]

Replace the manufacturers drain with a 3/4", full port ball valve. Problem solved.

 

[Snoonyb]

When I turn it halfway open, a very very light trickle comes out, when I open it fully it acts like its closed and nothing comes out.



Which bonnet nut are you talking about? I've tried sticking a metal wire hanger in the valve opening to get in there to maybe break something lose, but that seems impossible as the valve itself is very narrow. I've attached a picture looking inside the drain valve. Is it normal to be so narrow?

The bonnet nut, is the only nut in the picture. The shaft sticking out of the bonnet nut is the stem, and what you turn to open and close the valve.

When the stem is removed there is a straighter line into the calcium deposits which are obstructing the drain.

Another method in overcoming the hardened accumulation is to chuck a piece of a metal coat hanger into a cordless drill and employ it as a rheem. (yes I know it's a model)

 

[mako1]

Open the cold water valve on top of the water heater.

 

[oldognewtrick]

Now as a new homeowner, learn the proper terminology, you have a water heater, not a hot water heater. You heat cold water not hot..😏

Now, I'd hook up the hose, let it drain and try replacing the valve. May take a while since you said its only a trickle.

 

[thatguy188]

I'm going to give that a shot thanks for the suggestions!

And yeah I better get to learning the terminology, down here everyone does call it a hot water heater though, at least everyone I've ever met

I'll remove the bonnet but and stem, while having my shop vac handy, haha. Running to lowes to get a better ball valve.

 

[Snoonyb]

I'm going to give that a shot thanks for the suggestions!

And yeah I better get to learning the terminology, down here everyone does call it a hot water heater though, at least everyone I've ever met

I'll remove the bonnet but and stem, while having my shop vac handy, haha. Running to lowes to get a better ball valve.

TOWELS and wadders, as well.

 

[oldognewtrick]

TOWELS and wadders, as well.

As long as he has a 40 gallon shop vac he should be ok....😏

 

[slownsteady]

The basic plumbing tool.......a bucket.

you may have some success by exercising the valve a few times. You may hear some gritty sounds as sediment in the gate gets crunched. You should be replacing the valve anyway.