Loose Insulation Removal

SpartanEpoxies
Shop deals on ebay
Advertise with us
House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
T

tk3000

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
384
Reaction score
41
After about 2 years dealing with this thing, it seems clear that the insurmountable and overwhelming amount of loose grey insulation (probably has asbestos too) in the attic is the main hindrance in the way of performing any work there (which is already claustrophobic anyways)

22303391354_d4feef9766_z.jpg


24156630783_02dce6476c_z.jpg


I called around yesterday regarding the removal of this insulation but nobody returned my phone calls yet. So, I was wondering how easy and fast it would be to remove all this disgrace from the attic; and the cost?

tk3000
 
tk3000 said:
I was considering paying to have it done also because I would need something like a semi truck to transport all this insulation. But even a power non-industrial vacuum would do it albeit much slower
Click to expand...

At least one of the outfits that installs here also removes it.

Maybe check with companies that do insurance work or mold removal.
This stuff is removed all the time, some one must have the equipment.
 
And the following is IMO ONLY... :rolleyes:

If I had an older home with inadequate insulation, I would want to remove it, install a proper vapor barrier and bring the replacement up to code.

I would lay open face bats (possibly mineral wool) between the joists and make-up the difference needed with blow-in.

The gentleman in the video had no vapor barrier.

Attic Venting _1 - Ridge-Gable-Soffit Venting.jpg
 
I didn't think a vapor barrier was suppose to be installed in ceilings. I can see air sealing around pipe and any penetration, but shouldn't there be a opportunity to eliminate moisture somewhere? Inability to exchange air, in my opinion, causes another set of issues.
 
oldognewtrick said:
I didn't think a vapor barrier was suppose to be installed in ceilings. I can see air sealing around pipe and any penetration, but shouldn't there be a opportunity to eliminate moisture somewhere? Inability to exchange air, in my opinion, causes another set of issues.
Click to expand...

The biggest problem with mold in the attic is warm moist air from the house.
 
All that being said I would not add poly to the top side of a finished ceiling, Paint on the ceiling is a barrier and stopping air flow thru open holes and sealing light fixtures will do.
 
nealtw said:
All that being said I would not add poly to the top side of a finished ceiling, Paint on the ceiling is a barrier and stopping air flow thru open holes and sealing light fixtures will do.
Click to expand...

Not any paint (oil base or latex) but specially formulated paint. I would imagine it would also be useful in baths.

Vapor Barriers in Ceilings

Is it true that vapor barriers in ceilings cause problems?

Building codes require a vapor barrier on ceilings to prevent moisture from moving through the sheet rock or plaster into the insulation. Some contractors have had problems installing vapors during the winter. When they do the drywall finishing, the drywall on the ceiling may sag from moisture. This is usually because they have not insulated the attic before beginning the drywall finishing. Moisture from the drywall finishing condenses against the cold plastic and dampens the drywall. If the ceiling had been insulated, the vapor barrier would have been warm and condensation would not have occurred. Another argument used against vapor barriers is that the house needs to “breathe.” The vapor barrier is intended primarily to deal with moisture movement. It only affects air movement to the extent that it makes the ceiling less leaky. Encouraging water vapor to get into the attic will lead to wet, ineffective insulation and possible damage to the house. It is much better and cheaper to provide some type of mechanical ventilation if you are concerned that the house will not “breathe” enough.


When reinsulating an existing attic is it important to add a vapor barrier?

Most older homes have enough air leaking in and out that a vapor barrier is not as important as it is in a new, tightly-constructed home. If you add a vapor barrier, do not try to pull back the insulation and install plastic between the ceiling joists. It’s better to use a vapor barrier paint. Vapor barrier (more accurately called vapor retarder) paints are available from many paint companies. These paints are formulated to stop water vapor from moving through the wall. To be effective, they must be applied according to directions. This means putting on a thick coat. It is probably safest to put on two coats to assure enough thickness.
Click to expand...

If one makes the house tighter, insulating the walls and fancy windows, there needs to be a vapor barrier directly above the ceiling drywall (IMO).

If the house has been made tight, then one needs a fresh air exchange system and maintain full control of humidity.
 
Vapour will condense on cold surfaces, which you seldom find on a ceiling except for extremes in bathrooms with out a fan.
The biggest trick is stop the air movement.
Nothing stops vapour, if you find a chart you will find that anything with out an air leak has a value.
 
Sitting here with things to go but averting them... :)

From your Referred URL-

When reinsulating an existing attic is it important to add a vapor barrier?

Most older homes have enough air leaking in and out that a vapor barrier is not as important as it is in a new, tightly-constructed home. If you add a vapor barrier, do not try to pull back the insulation and install plastic between the ceiling joists. It’s better to use a vapor barrier paint. Vapor barrier (more accurately called vapor retarder) paints are available from many paint companies. These paints are formulated to stop water vapor from moving through the wall. To be effective, they must be applied according to directions. This means putting on a thick coat. It is probably safest to put on two coats to assure enough thickness.
Click to expand...
My take on the author's meaning is to try to skip present insulation removal but the use of vacuum machines seems to make the task simpler, If the insulation (fiberglass-cellulose) effectiveness has been compromised by vapor or poor attic ventilation, it may be advisable to remove the old and install new. The vapor barrier install will be much easier with the old insulation removed.

In high humidity areas (bath-kitchen-laundry) I would vapor barrier and vapor proof paint as drywall will absorb excessive moisture.
 
KULTULZ said:
Sitting here with things to go but averting them... :)

From your Referred URL-

My take on the author's meaning is to try to skip present insulation removal but the use of vacuum machines seems to make the task simpler, If the insulation (fiberglass-cellulose) effectiveness has been compromised by vapor or poor attic ventilation, it may be advisable to remove the old and install new. The vapor barrier install will be much easier with the old insulation removed.

In high humidity areas (bath-kitchen-laundry) I would vapor barrier and vapor proof paint as drywall will absorb excessive moisture.
Click to expand...

OK, then let's get deeper into it.
I am a firm believer in vapour barrier but there are reasons for not doing it.
Just imagine trying to to fit that tight to the joists from above and then you get to the end where the joists and the rafters sit on the outside wall and now you want to seal that end. If you don't get it sealed and and there are any gaps between the poly and the joists you have a clear path for outside air to get to the center of the ceiling just above the drywall.
If that happens you a sure to loose some value of insulation.

Let's say you are in a 2 story house, bedrooms upstairs. Will the drywall cieling up there absorb more moisture that the ceiling down stairs
 
nealtw said:
OK, then let's get deeper into it.
I am a firm believer in vapour barrier but there are reasons for not doing it.
Just imagine trying to to fit that tight to the joists from above and then you get to the end where the joists and the rafters sit on the outside wall and now you want to seal that end. If you don't get it sealed and and there are any gaps between the poly and the joists you have a clear path for outside air to get to the center of the ceiling just above the drywall.

If that happens you a sure to loose some value of insulation.
Click to expand...

Agreed.

Maybe seal with spray? Have you seen the Harry Homeowner Version in use?

Let's say you are in a 2 story house, bedrooms upstairs. Will the drywall cieling up there absorb more moisture that the ceiling down stairs
Click to expand...
I would think yes (unless there was one heck of an air leak @ the first floor ceiling) as the 2nd story ceiling would be colder as it is exposed to outside air (attic ventilation).

What do you think of fiberglass faced drywall on the ceiling?
 
nealtw said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQqcgxiFeUE
Click to expand...

Good deal! I used to buy tools at harborfreight but in hindsight they are a bad deal all the way around (with exception of wrenches and some hand tools). The coupons just make overepansive non-name non-warranty tools more acceptable (but still a bad deal: often I can buy much better quality for the same price at Sears when it is on sale, etc). Having said that, for a one time job I am willing to try this; even though this dust collector seems sort of weak.

thks
 
KULTULZ said:
And the following is IMO ONLY... :rolleyes:

If I had an older home with inadequate insulation, I would want to remove it, install a proper vapor barrier and bring the replacement up to code.

I would lay open face bats (possibly mineral wool) between the joists and make-up the difference needed with blow-in.

The gentleman in the video had no vapor barrier.
Click to expand...

It seems that below the blown insulation there are some even older fiber glass insulation with one face with paper (I assume that would be sort of vapor barrier). Would the paper face of the mineral wool or fiberglass suffice as a vapor barrier.?

thks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top