Fridge cabinet installation

[vinny186]

The layout is in this order: Fridge side panel (30" deep), above fridge cabinet (24" deep), fridge side panel (30" deep).

I want the fridge cab to be flush with the top of my fridge (30" deep) which means I'll need to extend the fridge cab away from the wall be approximately 6". Any suggestions on how to do this?

 

[Snoonyb]

Install all the other cabinets in that row first, leaving the refer and allowing for the method you select for addressing the refer encl.

There are several; Add face frames to both end panels and cleats the dimension of the wall cabinet, to both end panels, so that it can be screwed too and supported by the end panels.
Build a 5-3/4" deep box, so you you have 1/4" adjustment, hung from the wall and/or ceiling, shim and screw the wall cabinet between the end panels and the box.

 

[vinny186]

That's such a good idea. I was going to attach the first end panel, then fridge cab then the other end panel but it would be much easier to "frame out" the enclosure by adding bottom supports between both panels along with blocking in the back to secure it to the wall studs. Thanks.

 

[vinny186]

Because I have to build out the back wall by 6," can I lag bolt four stacked studs to each other at the top and bottom of the cabinet?

 

[nealtw]

Because I have to build out the back wall by 6," can I lag bolt four stacked studs to each other at the top and bottom of the cabinet?

I would just screw it to the gables, if you are worried about the top and or bottom bending over time just screw a 2 x 4 to the back to make it more stiff.
Of if you want more put two 2x4 between the gables and and hang the box from those.

 

[vinny186]

Are gables the same as joists?

 

[nealtw]

Are gables the same as joists?

The gable is the big piece you put beside the fridge.
Sorry I did not read all the posts and assumed you were putting one on each side.... My bad.

 

[Snoonyb]

If you screw it to the end panels, you see the screw heads on the end that does not have an adjacent upper cabinet.

Build it out from the wall out of 2x's, because packing extra weight on the cabinet, without attaching it to the wall creates stress on the cabinet.

 

[nealtw]

If you screw it to the end panels, you see the screw heads on the end that does not have an adjacent upper cabinet.

Build it out from the wall out of 2x's, because packing extra weight on the cabinet, without attaching it to the wall creates stress on the cabinet.

The screw heads would be inside the over the fridge box.

 

[Snoonyb]

So, how many screws with a 1/2" depth of penetration, would you think would be necessary?

 

[nealtw]

So, how many screws with a 1/2" depth of penetration, would you think would be necessary?

Well you all ready have two on each side of the front two more near the backon each side and if there is a cupboard on each side of the gables the back screws could be longer, Shear strength on one screw is likely over 700 pounds and shear pull out would be at least half of that.

 

[Snoonyb]

2 screws on one side with 700lb shear still doesn't address the 1/2" penetration on the other side, for a loaded cabinet.

I'll build out the back and attach the cabinet there and let finish nails take care of the aesthetics.

 

[slownsteady]

Can you hang it from the ceiling joists?

 

[nealtw]

for the non believers you could use flush nuts and screws
http://www.rockler.com/cap-nuts-for-connector-bolts

 

[nealtw]

2 screws on one side with 700lb shear still doesn't address the 1/2" penetration on the other side, for a loaded cabinet.

I'll build out the back and attach the cabinet there and let finish nails take care of the aesthetics.

So just to be clear on what you are saying.

If we can agree that 8 screws will have plenty of shear strength to hold the cupboard and contents.

Are you saying that the wood would fail and the screw would scrape a track so that the cupboard would slide down.

Wouldn't that bring into question those little pins on the same cupboard installed to hold the weight of the shelf and it's contents.
I have seen shelves fail, I have never seen an enlarged hole

 

[bud16415]

The gable is the big piece you put beside the fridge.
Sorry I did not read all the posts and assumed you were putting one on each side.... My bad.

Just a related thought before you get too far along like I did. I had a very similar setup to what neal showed in his photo. I had 4 inches between the hinge side of the fridge and the wall. when you open the fridge it was very claustrophobic and difficult to open the pull out bins in the fridge. I used those 4 inches to tilt the fridge at maybe a 10 degree angle and matched the upper with the same angle. The whole end fridge setup works so much nicer now.

 

[nealtw]

Just a related thought before you get too far along like I did. I had a very similar setup to what neal showed in his photo. I had 4 inches between the hinge side of the fridge and the wall. when you open the fridge it was very claustrophobic and difficult to open the pull out bins in the fridge. I used those 4 inches to tilt the fridge at maybe a 10 degree angle and matched the upper with the same angle. The whole end fridge setup works so much nicer now.

Yeah that photo shows the same mistake we have upstairs, the wall beside the fridge will not allow the door to open far enough. Your angle doesn't work with a fridge that fills the hole.

 

[Snoonyb]

Can you hang it from the ceiling joists?

If the cabinets were full height and an 8' ceiling.

 

[Snoonyb]

So just to be clear on what you are saying.

If we can agree that 8 screws will have plenty of shear strength to hold the cupboard and contents.

So hypothetically, when facing that wall of cabinets, the refer. is on the left and the first end panel is against an upper and a base cabinet, which to keep that refer end panel square need to have an 1/8", or an FEP installed to bring the back side of both cabinets level with those cabinets face frame, so the right refer end panel will be square.

The same 1/8" or FEP needs to be installed on the refer cab. to keep it square in the opening between the two end panels.

There is a 6" overlap between the refer cabinet and the wall cabinet on the right, giving you about 1-1/2" of meat to screw into, 5-1/4" of which is probably particle board.

While using flush nuts is a good Idea, the time , fostner bit and accuracy may be beyond some homeowner's wifes patience level.

Are you saying that the wood would fail and the screw would scrape a track so that the cupboard would slide down.

"What can go wrong will", and a wood screw with 1/2" penetration is a failure waiting for an opportunity.

Wouldn't that bring into question those little pins on the same cupboard installed to hold the weight of the shelf and it's contents.
I have seen shelves fail, I have never seen an enlarged hole

They are a tight fit, but, require the user to make up their ---- mind.

 

[bud16415]

Yeah that photo shows the same mistake we have upstairs, the wall beside the fridge will not allow the door to open far enough. Your angle doesn't work with a fridge that fills the hole.

I measured mine and saw I had room for the fridge at the end of the run with 4 or 5 inches left over. I figured I would make an oak filler for the end or a little cubby for the broom. As it was 4 or 5 inches of cocking the fridge let it swing open great. I cut the counter top at the same angle as my fridge doesn’t have that wood wall thing. Gives you the side of the fridge for magnets too. So now I have a wedge shape corner by the fridge and the dog keeps her toys in there.