when the roto-rooter guy came one time, he gave us a container of enzyme and said to pour it down the drain once a month. anyone know if this stuff can be bought retail, and if so, where, and how much it costs?
Nestor:
thicker paint has more additives, correct? i don't understand the science why agglomeration would cause the whole paint job to be darker, i.e when applied with more shear force. i can understand that there would be blotches of darker paint, but not a uniform darkness. if that's the...
Nestor:
your making me think creatively. can you imagine a paint that is almost completely transulent, like just translucent plexiglass binder with added material that creates a glass effect with spotted elements scattered about. like looking at water on the wall with little fragments. sorry...
that is a very fine thumb mold. speaking of plaster of paris... isn't that the stuff you use in paper mache. what if you added very fine particles of paper mache or other fibrous material to the water putty, wouldn't that make the end product even harder?
Nestor:
what i think i've learned about paint is that it's all about "rocks" suspended in binder. flat paint has more "rocks", i.e. extender pigments, than gloss paint, which causes more whitening effect. there are alot of things to consider when you want to do touch up work. i think your...
i think i have it now. what i thought i would accomplish by diluting the paint, is really using a gloss paint instead of a flat paint. painting is a complex endeavor. i think i learned something. thanks alot. i'm sure when the latex paint dries and darkens, the match will be ok. i was looking at...
the glazing putty takes a long time to harden. it's great for nail holes and even anchor holes. i painted over it and it took the paint well. i'll never work with epoxy again. it's messy, leaves a bumpy finish and tends to discolor yellowish. i guess glazing putty is better than spackle in terms...
that's quite a wealth of information. However, the results of my touch up seems to contradict the science... which is the latex paint i used lightened up after it dried which left slightly visible spots. I was touching up little smudges and dirt marks, etc with the paint. It was a vinyl-acrylic...
so what's better for covering up the spackle color, flat or gloss? do paint cans state whether or not they use organic or inorganic? if i want to blend with old paint maybe flat is better because of the brownian effect. i'm not going to have the store mix the pigments i'm just buying a mass...
i noticed that if i pour some comet down the sink drain, it clears up the backup. However, in the tub, it doesn't work as effective. As an alternative to getting the pipes snaked, any suggestions for a quick non-damaging way to clear up a slow draining bathtub?
I am covering up some spackling in one spot about 4 cubic inches. the spackling is considerably lighter than the white paint on the wall. i matched the paint color with a sample but i want to get the best result possible. I am going to get a flat latex paint but was wondering which would work...
here's what i tried and how it turned out so far.
tried using epoxy and found the consistency to thin to built up much of a layer. Also left a crappy bumpy finish which didn't exactly feel hard.
then i put some "wood putty" in the hole and it was hard enough to build up a layer to cover...
Thanks. I never heard of an escutcheon plate before. i failed to mention that this is a white bedroom door. also the gap goes to the wood frame part of the door. will a plate look ok? i could probably put a plate on the door and put some white epoxy at the edge where the veneer got knocked off...