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  1. L

    Windows/Counter Tops

    Thought about that after I posted. The window sill is at 36"' The window is located directly above the sink. The windows are old, original I believe, House built around 1900 or so. I was thinking around the line of seperate items, back splash and top, but could not come up with a idea on how...
  2. L

    Windows/Counter Tops

    Old house. Getting ready to install new cabinets and counter tops in the kitchen. Measured from the base of the window sills and compared to my cabinet options and counter top options and nothing matches up. It seems if I use off the shelf cabinets and standard top my sill will be lower than...
  3. L

    Wood Flooring Front Hallway

    That would be good, but sure would need a lot of them, as my flooring is 1 3/4 wide. Did more looking today and discovered some of my flooring is loose and the sub flooring is loose. Looks like floor will be coming off. Now that I have determined a new floor will be put down what would you...
  4. L

    Wood Flooring Front Hallway

    Ya I like the old stuff too. You do not think the wood filler would stand out with such wide gaps? I am concerned how much sanding I would have to do to get the floor even, as I am sure that there is some sagging going on and raised flooring.
  5. L

    Wood Flooring Front Hallway

    Yes there is a sub floor made up of 10" wide boards and I think 3/4" thick that is rough sawed. I think the existing flooring is either oak or some other hard wood that has been stained a lighter color.
  6. L

    Wood Flooring Front Hallway

    Since I received some great advice before I thought I would start here. First question I have, is when is better to rip out tongue and grove flooring and replace or resurface. My flooring is over 100 years old and I would call it character, but the wife calls it ugly. Have some large gaps...
  7. L

    Painting Archways

    What is the general rule of thumb for painting a doorway or arch between two rooms that are a different colors.
  8. L

    Ground

    Sure did. Ran that second line with ground all the way around
  9. L

    Ground

    Wire tied to cover bare wire and shoved behind fixture
  10. L

    Ground

    I am getting confused. speedy posted no ground required as all components are plastic, slowand steady what I think is no ground just wire tie for future use Did not understand nealtw was kind of saying two things ground and no ground. Wire 14/2
  11. L

    Ground

    Referring to early post, using plastic boxes and plastic fixtures (see pic in post} no ground required according to one poster. These fixtures have no designated ground screw.
  12. L

    Drywall Joints.

    I guess that's why pros make the money would have done things different. Just used 1/4 over existing plaster. Plaster and lathe in an 100 yr old house. Ran a level across bottom of drywall and cut then I cut some strips of drywall for the bottom. My mudding leaves something to be desired but...
  13. L

    Drywall Joints.

    Which is easier, Wall board up but need to make it closer to the floor. Vertical installed. Want to run horizontial strips 8inch for filler. Do I want to butt joint or butt and recessed side for easier mudding Thanks
  14. L

    Ground

    Sorry for the delay. Work. Decided to go with the two runs, Made one run ungrounded with lights and a grounded run for receptacle with a GFI box. A little more work but I like this idea best. Thanks for all the reply's and ideas
  15. L

    Ground

    Sorry for the delay. Basement open ceiling. You are correct Pic not the best Thanks
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