Recent content by MinConst

I've just about completed my router cabinet. Cost was pretty high I figure around $250.00. And I had left over plywood for the carcass. The plate, top and some hardware was all I needed to purchase.

In general when using screws to hold two pieces of wood together you want the first piece of wood to allow the screw to turn freely. When it bites into the second piece it becomes a clamping effect. Unless you are clamping the pieces together first this is what you want to have happen. You don't...

That will do fine. It might be a bit hard to break it away from the floor but it is fine if you can do it. You may need to re shim the top to make it tight. Get all the rock off first so you can see what your doing. Watch for any electrical or plumbing lines that might be running through the...

When you open the walls by removing the drywall make sure there is an inch space between the 2x4 framing and the block wall. If the walls are dry and you have this space just insulate with R13 with the vapor barrier on the inside of the wall. If the walls are wet you will need to stop the...

If you go through from under just drill the holes from the top. If you go this route use both the screws and the adhesive. I've tried the adhesive by itself and had bad luck with it. Went back and it had lifted. I would use countersunk screws myself and fill the holes. Finish washers will ;eave...

I agree with triple d it looks cross threaded. I would remove it all and replace it all with new plastic. The upper elbow of the trap looks like it is pretty corroded anyway. It also looks like quite a contraption getting into the wall. But it also looks like all the 45s are glued so it would be...

Ya know Black and Decker was my first hammer drill. It burned up the bits just like you said. When I went to Milwaukee HD everything changed.

Are you using a hammer drill? or standard. I have very good luck with Milwaukee bits. They last the longest for me. Much longer in a good hammer drill as they don't heat up as much in hammer mode. Also I have found that tap cons are not the best in block only in cement. I use lead inserts...

How about having a strip of stainless steel or bronze cut and cement it in place. It would add a distinctive touch.

You can try slicing down the edge of the corner bead with a knife then remove the screws and side sections. You will have a harder time finishing the new corner bead as there is already mud and paint on the bottom section. It never comes out as nice as fresh. But saving hanging 5 sheets of rock...

Hello and welcome Ryan, Congratulations to you and your girl on your new home. If your figuring 4k for your budget I would say plan on 6. Thats without adding anything new to your list. You sound determined to go the DIY route and that is fine as long as you do it right. The floor...

A good caulk person can lay a bead that will look finished. Most of the rest of us smooth it after application. I doubt there is any reason not to if it is not perfect out of the tube. I've been caulking counters for over 25 years and am not of the chosen ones that lay it down perfectly out of...

TX I know this was a very old post but I just saw it. I built this a few years ago and honestly don't remember the figures for the materials. It was built on deck blocks no pilings. If I remember correctly is was 18' so there were 2x6 joists, 1 x 6 tops and standard 4x4 rail posts and 2x2...

When I prime new drywall I use a PVA drywall primer. It is not an expensive primer but made for the task. Never had a problem with any of it. Once I had found it in 5 gallon pails real cheap and it went on so nice it could have passed for paint after on coat. But that was then and now I use any...

What happens when the ladder gives way?