Recent content by rokosz

Barn door. Originally I'd wanted to use the 1" dowels as the fasteners. I've never done that before and got cagey about it after doing some test attachments. So, I elected the steel carriage bolts with caps as pictured. The overall 1" holes can be a little too loose to snugly hold the 1" caps...

thank you bud and Steve. chiseling? I presume a more accomplished woodworker could get that nice, smooth and level/square. But I think I'd end up proving my second greatest woodworking skill (making chips). My first greatest skill is making sawdust. Nope the boards are cut to the proper length...

I've got 4 timbers 2 3/4" thick I want/need to take 5 1/2" inches off each of the ends for 90 deg. lap joints. I've come up with free-handing a router (with appropriate support around the 3 outsides), while fencing/being really careful on that inside line. I've never fenced for this kind of cut...

kerf! yes that's the word, yup what I was thinking. Got a brad nailer that takes tiny (3/4" up to 2"). drilling out the recesses makes sense I don't have a drill press (or would that be overkill), but I do have patience. Thanks Eddie_T. I think I just gotta find the frame pieces and go for it.

I've decided to build my own sliding barn door (interior). Since shipping is through the roof (along most everything these last months). It'll be kind of large for an interior but due to the layout of its intended wall it lt only works as a 6x6. I was kind of stymied by the prospect but...

hi odnt, yes, finish/veneer is the same, problem there is the veneer is damaged with some splits and missing pieces. But at least looking at it give me a better idea of how thick i can expect the front ven to be.

Thanks Steve123, Maybe I'll take the 120->220 steps inside the circle (normally hidden by the clock) see how that works out.

You can probably draw a line from all the waste humanity generates right to the door of the trouble(s) we have now... Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. and that still may not save us.

Hi, the image is a mount/backing for a wall clock. Its veneered wood at least 60years old. I thought I'd put a new/restored finish on it. I took a 600gr piece of sand paper and gave it a light rub. The dust that came off was white. turned the 600g paper white too. tack cloth wiped. Since I...

No, not really. that link is the typical link for practical use. I need the unit maintenance level doc. think I found it, but haven't tried yet: Adjustment Of Components; Bevel Angle Adjustment; Ball Bushing (Linear Bearing) - Hitachi C 12LSH Technical Data And Service Manual [Page 40] |...

This is the Hitachi saw in question: How do you adjust a Hitachi compound miter saw? (findanyanswer.com) Before I chase the Hitachi site, I thought I'd start here. The link has the obvious, user's manual, answer: When you _want_ to change the bevel for your desired cut. I need to adjust the...

ahhh something I hadnt considered -- though it faces East, gets long angle unshaded sun only in the winter and Summer early mornings. the angle of reaction(?) in the finish always made me think of rain/snow. The door is in a corner of the covered porch with its jamb at the north wall

Any chance you can divine a manufacturer? Maybe, if a sash can be removed/opened for cleaning you might find better information. Chances are you may not know until you remove the frame from the rough opening. So many manufactuerers and so many years, you might want to balance your effort...

Hi, The pics show a front door. It will catch rain/snow lower down. Its about 20-25 feet from a somewhat busy street, passing at 30mph (speed limit). Good mix of light trucks, vans etc.. Salted/sanded in snow. By Spring there's a nice coating of gray dust on the porch. The door was stripped...

Hi, The pics show a front door. It will catch rain/snow lower down. Its about 20-25 feet from a somewhat busy street, passing at 30mph (speed limit). Good mix of light trucks, vans etc.. Salted/sanded in snow. By Spring there's a nice coating of gray dust on the porch. The door was stripped...