Recent content by sadavis80

I agree with Paul. Pull the refer away from the wall, take off the rear (usually light cardboard) cover and CLEAN everything you can reach with a vacuum - use a shop vac since it's likely to pick up some WATER from the drain tray. When the refer goes through its defrost cycle it dumps a good...

That should be LINT cloggs.. for some reason I can't edit anything after I type it.

All above posts are about right.. however, I have had to disassemble my dryer(s) over the years at about the 5 or 6 year marks to access the INTERNAL areas around the 'flight path' of the heated AIR. Lint clogs up in areas you wouldn't expect over time. I have pulled out some pretty big clogs...

Wow. Fantastic that you found that loose connection AND fixed it! Glad to hear it's finally fixed!

It sounds to me like you still have the EXACT same problem you had with the old unit that you replaced. SOMETHING, that DID NOT get replaced "must?" be the problem.. unless it worked perfectly AFTER the new installation and has now failed again. I can't follow the time line of all this for...

You need to call whomever installed the new compressor/outside unit and see what they have to say. Did they TEST the unit after installation? Seems that all this should have been tested after/during the installation.

You'll need to reset the Temp in each mode to make sure the system actually tries to change the switch.

IMO, the most likely culprit is the reversing switch.. either the relay that activates it or the switch itself. Suggest you try cycling it several times between heat and cooling but probably best to give it 3-5 minutes in each mode - don't just bounce back and forth. Steve

I would guess that your outside unit would not weigh more than 500 lbs. 2 guys usually install these things with no issues and ONE person can easily move it around on a pad for specific positioning. PROBABLY more like ~300 lbs.. but I haven't weighed one. Steve

Don't know who your 'AC Repairman' was.. but it's really EASY to 'decide' that the compressor is bad .. when it's really NOT .. it's just the relay. Depends on how much you trust your repairman .. and I WATCH any repairman that works on any of my equipment. I can tell if they checked that...

First thing to check is the relay that's inside the outside unit. You will have a power shutoff-probably on the wall of the house carrying power to the unit. It will have 220VAC with a connection to the relay inside the unit. That relay can fail to switch power to the compressor. I had to...

The only problem with the small pancakes is that they have no 'reserve'. The CFM is quite low and it won't be able to keep up. since the CFM is low, it can't keep up enough pressure to blow a line clear if it's more than about 10 feet long. If your valve box is accessible, I'd bet you can open...

Agreed.... Obviously, I didn't make myself clear .. I run the 1/4" poly from the bottom of the tank up near the top to some convenient position where I mount the gate valve. The OTHER side of the gate valve is vented outside through a small hole in the wall for the 'stuff' to get outside...

YES.. plumbing the drain back up to a convenient location is perfectly acceptable. I used 1/4 poly 'brake' tubing - you need something good enough (copper would work fine.. just a LOT more a PITA to work with) to handle the max pressure of your compressor setup. I put a ball valve at the top...

OK.. after going back and looking at the entire thread.. *I* think you just have a failed thermocouple on your oven. When the oven calls for heat, the igniter activates and heats up to whatever temp it's going to get to.. after that temp is reached, the gas valve opens and allows the burner to...