Search results

My ohm meter has alligator clamps on it, so I went to plug the cord in and test it at the terminal instead to give me something to clamp too. As soon as I plugged it in to the wall the washer started to fill up!! I'm thrilled but baffled at the same time. I know I tested the new terminal...

What should I look for on the cord? It appears fine. I'll test the receptical when I get back home. If the receptical or cord was bad, why does the dryer still tumble? The breaker wasn't tripped either. I flipped it once to make sure its on. I appreciate the input guys!

The main breaker wasn't tripped. I haven't been able to locate the fuses, do they have them on older models? FLSE60RGS2 I haven't thought to check the voltage. Could the timer switch be bad?

The other day my washer made a popping sound. I started investigating and found the terminal on the back where the power cord attaches to fried, so I replaced that. The washer was working intermittenly but now the washer wont turn on at all. Also, the dryer will tumble but it wont get hot...

Ok thanks! Also, the brass drain and the P trap don't line up, they're about 3/4" off (in every direction) because I'm using a standard P trap with a short sink. Right now I'm using the plastic flex drain 1-1/2" but it doesn't seal properly. What other options do I have?

Thanks for all the replies guys! I have plumbers putty rolled under the drain flange and sink basin already. I wasn't able to tackle the job yet as I've picked up a stomach virus. Redwood, so your saying its leaking down the threads? Will pipe dope be sufficient on the threads?

After switching from a pvc to a brass drain and trying several different design washers I can't get the rubber mack washer to completely seal against the sink bottom. Water slowly begins dripping between the two. Could the bottom of the sink be uneven from the factory to prevent a flush seal...

I have installed new cpvc and pvc sch 40 throughout the house. I installed new metal shut off valves on both lines under my bathroom sink, toilet and under my kitchen sink. Each valve was wrapped twice with teflon and tightened. After turning the water on each valve began to slowly leak? Any...

Ok I see, so how would you recommend connecting Cpvc to the galvanized outside the house? Thanks

Or are you saying to use pvc only for cold water throughout the house and Cpvc for the hot water? I'm aware but didn't specify.

So your saying, once it reaches the foundation it has to be another material even if its for cold water?

I'm installing new pvc in my house and have taken out all of the old galvanized pipes. I would like to replace everything back to the meter with new pvc. How difficult is it connecting to the meter? Or can I use a compression fitting (not sure if thats the right term) to connect the gal. to the...

I'm installing new cpvc in my house so the old clean out had to be taken out.

While breaking out my old cast iron clean out for the kitchen, I damaged the cinder block that it went through. Its still together like a puzzle, its just cracked. What are my options for repairing it? I'm also putting the new cpvc clean out back through it. Thanks

Thanks for the responses guys. I agree that I'll have to shim out the wall to make the cement board come down the wall and flush with the lip (flush because the lip around the tub is beveled in, therefore it doesn't go straight up) then tile over the lip in order for the tile to run almost into...

I don't think is has anything like that. When I pulled it out it was just sitting there. I was wondering if the 3/4" on each end was to accommodate for some sort of board like cement board but they probably didn't have that when it was installed 1940. Should the tub be a tight fit around all 3...

I've completely gutted my bathroom which is 61" x 8' and now I'm getting ready to set the tub back in position for new plumbing. If I center the tub between the front (side with shower head) and back wall there is about 3/4" gap on both sides. My question is how far away from the front and...

Its a brick chimney. How do I make this "pan"? And can it be fabricated from regular flashing? Or does someone make a pre-fabed one?

My roof is a basic A frame style with the chimney going up the side of the house. So there is a high side of the chimney and a low side. I know I'm suppose to use step flashing up the side, but do they make a piece of flashing or something besides tons of caulking that is designed for that...

Ok, thanks. Although, lowes has their knock-off version for a little cheaper?