Search results

Hard to be sure from a small photo, but dry rot can look similar and can travel across masonry...

Yes, I see that problem quite a lot, also with thick metal wall ties in older cavity walls.

Being a bricklayer myself, I can understand why he wants to do the job as we need to work as much of the year as we can. Work can proceed in winter if the correct methods are used. However if work can wait till the spring it's normally better, although it is better to stop any moisture entering...

Have you looked at what may be causing the cracks? eg there might be metal lintels rusting and pushing up the brickwork when expanding.

Did you mix by hand or with a mixer?

What's the brickwork tied to at the back?

Thanks, that was what I meant as it looks like somewhere in the UK, but the area can greatly affect the price.

Get it repointed. The main cost is in the scaffolding. Where is it located?

Matching mortar can be done if you take your time. Getting the same or similar sand helps. To check the sand dissolve some of the mortar in acid, and you will be left with a sample of the sand. Mortar can be aged also by adding a darker sand to the mix, or mortar dyes. A bit of black dye can...

It depends on the type of brick and type and condition of the mortar.

There does not like there is any. If the inner wall is blockwork the builders don't usually put them in, although the original designs for cavity walls had them. When then inner wall is timber, as is a common type of build in the USA, weep holes are always put in at DPC level, or just below.

Here's a photo of the DPC on the external skin of a brick/block cavity wall. A DPC of some kind has been required on house walls here since the Public Health Act in 1875.

They are on a concrete slab. The foundation depth depends on ground conditions and your climate. The slab just butts up against the wall. The exterior wall will have stucco down to the batten, which is just above the damp proof course. nealtw, You may know damp proof course by a different...

Quite a common problem with some types of bricks. Nowadays we have to use frost resistant bricks up to the damp proof course, which is at least 6 inches above ground level. http://www.brick.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Frost-Resistance-of-Clay-Bricks.pdf If replacing the bricks I would...

Steps don't have to be attached to the house. Here's a brick set that have a gap as they would bridge the damp proof course if touching the wall.

In the USA brick and block spacing rules can be used, but here we use a piece of 2x1 batten with the course marks on it. For example if the height of the block is 8 5/8 inches with a 3/8 inch bed joint you mark the batten every 9 inches and when building the corners check the heights with this...

Do you mean the bed or perp joints, or both?

What I have used many times in the past are things called frame ties, which are used to tie timber door and window frames to the brickwork as it is built up. It's a smilar idea to BridgeMans. You could probably make some up by bending some metal bars and drilling a fixing hole. As long as you...

To do a job like this the top course of brickwork should have been headers overhanging the brick face, and the cill formed by rendering the headers. I would take the cill off and replace the stretcher course with headers and re form the cill.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/wall-multi-starter-kit/66650?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Building%and%20Joinery-_-Wall%20Multi%20Starter%20Kit These are good, but may not be available near you. Click on proceed to link destination.