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Good Move!

It's good on floors, however I wouldn't use it in a wall, no. For this you want mass.

I take it back. It's 100% cellulose, so it's the same old H440 and no damping layer.

That appears to be a re-marketing of the age-old classic Homasote 440. Very low mass - low isolation. There may be a chewey damping layer in between, but damping two lightweight boards is minimally impactful. I strongly suggest looking at double 5/8" Type X drywall. There's no lightweight...

Concrete could conduct, but concrete conducts footfall noise (impact) better than airborne. Without all the details, it would seem that removing your drywall and inspecting the insulation, adding either a clip & channel system OR a second wall to decouple, followed by double drywall that has...

Generally R13 fiberglass in a wall, or R19 in a ceiling. Avoid labels that say "acoustic" or "sound control." Just get the cheapest stuff you can find

Soundboard will not do the trick. Fiberglass insulation is as good as it gets.

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/sp-solutions/soundproof-a-ceiling/ . Asbestos' comment above is right on the money. Have a look at this link to get a few ideas for ceiling treatments

Drwall secured with screws secured into the sound board only... May the force be with you

As long as you understand that you have significant flanking. As I stated before, I suggest you stick with lab tested assemblies. There are many to choose from.

So a little noticeable immediate improvement. The existing wall is decoupled. You doubled the mass on one side of a staggered stud wall and damped that mass. Damping alone can increase a staggered stud wall performance 5 points. You added damping + mass on one side so one might have expected...

Yes. Curious when I asked if you heard any improvement, you said "initially," what were you meaning? I assume you mean you immediately heard an improvement? It would be helpful to describe / quantify the improvement.

A stud wall might improve 12 points with the addition of GG and drywall on one side. Presuming no flanking. There's always flanking, which will move down the achieved isolation. Flanking needs to be addressed. Ceiling, floors and adjacent walls. Decoupled construction is always a better...

Do you hear any improvement? People don't use foam and drywall in the manner you described.

The supplier should have provided installation instructions that clarified the 30 day dry period.

Regarding point #1, GG on the framing is not helping. You need to avoid contact. Consider a block plane and shaving that piece. GG will not sag because it is only used sandwiched between two sheets of building material that are thoroughly screwed together. There is nothing to sag

Blown in is tempting, but there's a great risk of compaction. If the insulation becomes overly compressed / compacted, it will conduct a vibration. This is the problem with foam. It's too dense and conducts a vibration readily. Doesn't matter if it is open or closed cell. Pre-coating a stud...

That shower usually replaces drywall in that general area. So any little tapping (water) on the fiberglass shower will transmit effectively into the wall cavity. There it can travel up, down, sideways and of course straight into the neighbor's area. Any remediation at this point would be a major...

Here's a general rule about insulation in an acoustical wall or ceiling application: Nothing works better than cheap fiberglass. You could spend big money on exotic insulation, but performance will not improve. You could build a formidible wall between you and your neighbor, but the ceiling...

Agree 100%