Search results

So Home Depot sells flashing in a 4"x4"x8" pieces, are these ok to use? I would overlap about 1/2 inch? I don't have the ability to run and crease longer pieces. That plastic dome is cracked, there is another dome under that one, its 30 years old and I will have to replace it.

Yes, there was no flashing that I could see, the tongue and grove went all the way down to the roof shingles, what was there before the newer roof was installed I cant say, but your solution makes the most sense, Thanks so much!

Pictures, the indoor pics shows sheet rock seams coming apart above skylight and below it which makes me think it isn't the skylight or it would only come apart next to or below the skylight, I think..

Yes Buds solution sounds really good, I wonder if I could cut 6" of the tongue and groove, take it out and insert the flashing then replace it. Be a tough job as I would have 48' of wall to cut.

I have no headwall flashing that I can see, the contractor installed the cedar siding all the way down to the shingle, the roof isn't that old and now I am getting water which seems to be coming from that area of the roof all the way down to the gutter. I had another contractor look at it while...

Haaa, nice video, thanks, but I hopefully have a company that will replicate that skylight dome, if it works out I will post it as it took forever to find it...

So. the problem is, I have three of these, its size is a problem also, its 32.3/4 x 48.1/2 edge of flange to edge of flange, and its a double glaze, I'm thinking I will take the broken glaze off and just leave the smaller inner one, then maybe epoxy the crack and put it back on.???

I can't get anyone to replicate this cracked skylight and there is no identifying makings to say what company made it. If someone recognizes it, that would be so amazing..

Hi All, My roofing guy a few years ago placed the asphalt roofing over the flashing. I beleive its supposed to go under the flashing, no? I have a leak, there is a 1/4 step down between the siding and shingle, I have been smearing Henrys roof sealer in/on it, but it doesn't last very long...

I guess I will have to see what happens, if the floor gets to bad the tenant will have to be inconvenienced while I get it tiled, or the tenant could live with it until he moves out at which time I will tile it. Hopefully it will not get any worse! Thanks for your input!

The slab that its on is not below grade, its a kind of situated on a rocky outcropping, in soil and rock but nothing dug in the dirt, its kinda propped up on maybe 1 to 2 layers of cinder block in front and becoming slab like going towards the back, probably to level it. I wonder, does...

Well with all the rain we just had, I probably will see what happens next, tile would have been so preferable which is probably what I will end up with.

Thats what I fear I will have to do, but I'm going to wait and see what happens. The other thing is, I'm renting out the space and I hope it doesn't become an issue while I'm renting it.

Yes, particle board is nailed to concrete and it had a slight bulge which transfered to the oak I beleive. I'm hoping that water from the surface is what found its way down into the subfloor and not a wicking from below.

Has been down for at least two years, I think they installed it shortly before I bought the place.

So, after replacing almost a whole bundle of planks, and polyurathaning it, the floor is still raised where the doors touch it, its better, but I'm worried that with summer humidity and some rain storms I may be back to where I started.

I hope these pictures help, Im hoping the bulge is not so bad that I can't simply use some nails to flatten the floor, I'll wait for your opinions. thanks!

Ok, so the now twisted planks need replacing (or can I just nail it down with finishing nails?)and I have created a space between the wall and flooring, there is just one thing, I cannot in some places create an expansion space because there is either a to narrow area or a heating basebord or...

So, I took my circular saw and tore down the middle of one plank, what I found was, no moisture and that pink paper with particle board base with staple type nails in it from the board I just removed. My question is, is it possible to force down the twisted oak planks with screws or nails...

what if I use a concrete nail gun just to push the floor down now that I have created space between the wall and floor, or, drill a hole and inject glue then nail it down? I would like to avoid a big take it apart production.