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Yeah, it's definitely not metal. I took a magnet which stuck to everything nearby made of metal but not the supply plenum. I would think it is fiberglass board as suggested.

I had purchased a whole house humidifier to install on my furnace. When I went to measure everything and figure out what the best installation technique would ultimately be in my attic, I discovered that the supply plenum above my furnace and AC coil was not a rigid rectangular duct as I have...

Manufacturer says allow 1/4'' expansion space for nail-down installation. That's the only explicit note on spacing.

That is certainly very comforting to hear! Sub floor is Advantech OSB btw. Going to try to keep the humidity high enough before and during installation because it's in the instruction manual.

I've started installing engineered maple that is 5" wide. I am using the nail down with glue assist method recommended for wide flooring pieces. My question is since I am installing my flooring in the winter time and it is mostly contracted, do I need to install it with an intended gap between...

Went with several applications of the 2 mold cleaners and two coats of mold killing paint. A little of the wet moldy smell is still present but most of it seems to be gone. Here's my progress so far. Getting the framing for the new cabinet floor assembled. By the way rip cutting a 2x4...

Disregard the tangle of wire. That was just to keep the garbage disposal and dishwasher supply line out of the way of my oscillating tool.

It's a P trap

Photobucket has officially lost a user once I get some of my images backed up! EDIT: Those are the best shots of the floor air-dried after the Concrobium treatments I could probably get right now, unless I add a bunch of artificial light. It was much darker before. Right now I've got...

Does the end grain treatment help kill existing mold that could be left or is it more preventative?

Yes, it seemed dry. It definitely wasn't spongy. I didn't realize it was mold at first and was just thinking there was black all over the place from dirt until it dawned on me. Do you think the primer would be worth it for extra insurance?

The cabinet floor beneath my kitchen sink has had old water damage from previous owner for a number of years. I finally had an opportunity to go in and try to replace the area. After I got the floor completely up, I ran into what I am pretty sure is mold as the subfloor and some of the wall...

Yep. I am taping the seams. Practically every seam has sheet metal screws as well as tape. I am using two types of insulation - fiberglass and self adhesive. Edit: Kinda hard to capture the whole run especially since some of it is hidden by subfloor but a couple more shots. I have to...

I have the whole pipeline complete and just about finished adding insulation except I realize that I have not overlapped the insulation anywhere. I just have coverage on all the pipe except the elbow joints that go through holes in the joists. Do I need to overlap the insulation? It seems...

The bathroom is on the first floor which means I'd have to get it up through the 2nd floor and to the attic to run it vertically. There is a wall cavity near where the vent fan is housed but if I am thinking about this correctly, a 4'' pipe will not fit in a wall cavity because the max depth is...

Unfortunately, there isn't a straighter option without ripping up a good bit of subfloor and also cutting out rim board and siding. Also would have to pull up carpet and padding in a bedroom. This would change the exit to the rear of my house (vinyl siding) instead of the side (brick). Then...

OK. I think I follow. I have two possible plans right now. One of them has 6 joints with angles of 45 degrees or less. The other plan has 5 angles but one would be a 90 degree. Neither plan really eliminates 90 degree turns altogether because I basically have to turn 180 degrees to reach...

Pictures of current state of things as mentioned before: Best shot I could get of run I already installed Where vent exits a mid point in the run current end As mentioned before, it would be 8 elbows with the current plan I have. The total estimated length of the completed run is ~25...

I had a feeling that might be the case. I will take some pictures tomorrow hopefully to show what I have so far before I go the route of ripping a lot of stuff out. If I do try to eliminate the elbows I will have to cut some more holes in the I joist and possibly seal some of the existing...

I am still deciding on whether or not I need to add insulation. Also it is a long run and there will be at least 8 elbows (which seems like a LOT) using the existing route the plastic flex followed through the i-joist webbing. I am using sheet metal screws and aluminum tape to secure each joint.