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Your "practical experience" story had nothing to do with the OP's question. You posted it in a pathetic attempt to make your answer seem right simply because I said that external heat wouldn't cause the breaker to trip. As for you taking issue with me, or my "minions"...I didn't know I had...

What does your little fairy tale have to do with the OP's question about his or any arcing breaker tripping from the heat generated from it? Nothing! You said yes...sorta, I said no. Heaven forbid someone says anything contrary to you. So you come up with some story that's not even remotely...

I was wondering how long it would take you to convolute it in some way just to justify your other answer.

Kick plates aren't actually there to be kicked, they're there to protect the door's finish from minor shoe contact when going in or out. You should just use a boot scraper or something like this that you can have out there for a snow storm but stored away when not in use...

No, the arcing is usually because of a bad or loose connection outside of the breaker. If the lug where the power feeds into the main was loose, arcing there could heat the panel or wire to the point of ignition. Same thing with a breaker plugged into the bus. The breaker could start to melt...

What that sounds like is electrical arcing. The only noise you should ever hear from your panel is silence....and sometimes a hum from a breaker. If it's arcing at the main breaker or behind it, it needs to be checked asap. Arcing causes heat and heat causes fires.

Typically the in slab and the water heater use the same boiler but they are separate water sources. The heated water from the boiler is used to heat the floors and circulated through the water tank to heat the domestic hot water.

I'm assuming you have in slab, rather than on slab, radiant heat. The slab acts as a huge heat sink but takes a fair amount of time to heat up. When you stat calls for heat, hot water is pumped through the slab heating it which then heats the flooring on it. Then the space heats up. Once the...

I'm not a fan of corner sinks, especially with cabinets over them. It's too closed in, you have wasted counter space in the back of the sink, odd counter space to the left and right of the sink, and anyone using the sink is going to be blocking those cabinets if someone else wants into them.

I think bud has the right idea. Put a shelf just above the water supply and put on a hinged skirt board that will hide everything but allow access to them also. Then instead of having to look at the connections you'll be looking at all the crap that gets tossed on the shelf.

In simplest terms...if all the lights were on the same circuit you could locate the line side of the circuit and install a switch to control power feeding the load side....the fixtures. It's probably not that simple so you need to determine if the fixtures are on multiple circuits and what the...

I would get a drywall rasp and shave and bevel down the protruding edges. It's easier than having to add extensions or partial extensions. Depending on the trim you're using it will have a slight inward pitch but won't be that noticeable and the trim will cover the beveled drywall.

You have to check a couple of things. Check if there is even voltage at the switch going to garage from the house. Check with it in the off and on positions. You should also check the wiring at the fixtures. The light fixtures will be wired with switched power coming from the house into one...

Plexiglass is easy to form. Get a couple sheets of thin plexi and use a heat gun to bend them into the shape you want. There's plenty of info online if you search... bending plexiglass.

Instead of renting one buy one of these from Harbor Freight. I used one to tear up 1400 sqft of tile and the thinset off of a slab. One of the best tools I've purchased from them...

Put it in perspective, you have an 1/8" line filled with grout, that's over thinset, that's over backer board. I'm no expert, and I don't know how long products like Hydro Ban have been used in homes, but the way you've done it is the way it's been done for a very long time, without issues.

Try this cleaner. I've used it on PVC trim boards and latex painted surfaces outside. Works great on mildew and dirt. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Krud-Kutter-32-oz-Original-Concentrate-Cleaner-Degreaser-KK3212/203396788

Easy way to fix it? Yes, raise it up 6". As mentioned earlier, you're going to have issues when you install the baseboard trim. That low and you'll have to butt cut ends of the baseboard against the grill. Raise it up and the baseboard runs uncut below it. It will also look better raised up.

I would try screwing it in tighter to see if it helps. As an aside.....I'd be curious as to what underlying issues would cause a 6 year old's desire for a punching bag. Hopefully it's just a phase not a need for self protection. I'll also give you a nice site for free boxing info that you can...

It's not the weather stripping that's the issue...it's your install. The door is racked, the frame is a bit twisted so the door isn't closing properly. Looking at the picture it looks like the the jamb isn't plum with the stud. As for the trim, you can figure the additional depth and attach...