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Thank you!

Job’s done. The grain is really busy, plus some features I couldn’t see came out after the polyurethane was applied.

I guess that’s true. I’ll continue the sanding process. I will need filler. I bought Pall X Kitt floor filler, but this is my first time using it. In your opinion, at what stage of the sanding process is best to apply the filler?

Hi everyone. I just recently refinished the floors in the sunroom and now I'm doing the rest (dining room, living room and a bedroom). I have sanded the floors three times with grit 36 and, while the old polyurethane is gone, the wood looks of uneven color. I know how it is supposed to look...

I was able to find a strip and replaced the damaged one. There’s a slight difference in thickness, but after the refinishing that’s not going to be noticeable.

Mystery solved, they dug out the hardwood until they reached the subfloor, which is hardwood laid out diagonally. To my surprise, the floor does use tongue and groove.

Well, I did add a cripple stud in the header. Not that that qualifies me as a good builder…

So, I ended up getting rid of the stud. I added two studs to the right and the edge of the frame stands under the double plate. I had to extend the wire (had to call an electrician because it was aluminum wire) and installed a light switch on the outer side of the new wall. I noticed that...

Thank you for the responses. I did look at a profile of the floor and subfloor , and it's an inch deep, nailed to another identical piece of one inch Douglas Fir. I didn't see groove and tongue. They're just nailed next to each other. The video is really helpful. I had thought about something...

In case the video doesn’t work, please see this pic.

Hello and thank you for accepting me into this forum. I am going to refinish my hardwood floors. They are between 100 and 120 years old. I just finished the sunroom and the result is spectacular. With the rest of the main floor, though, there are a few challenges. In a remodel done probably in...

Thank you for the input. I'm a beginner, aspiring carpenter. I love working with wood, but I'm not very fluent yet with building conventions.

I thought about it and it will be better to leave it as is. Will create a frame to attach the drywall and add a wooden frame to each opening.

Thank you for this advice. I was thinking that I don’t need the opening to be that long, and need wall space to place furniture, and in that little hallway behind the former arches, I’d like to build shelves. The house doesn’t have too many closets. So, what if I add two or three studs on the...

No, there’s an open space in front of the two rooms to which their doors open to. When I’m done remodeling, I’ll put carpet, two bean bags or a couch, and a tv for the kids to play with their Xbox. No structure is on top of that wall.

There’s an empty space in the second floor. A hallway leading to the upstairs rooms.

Here’s a picture of the whole wall section. They left a single stud in the middle. That wall runs all the way to the exterior wall, so there are several studs before and right after this arch. This arch ends in the wall that is perpendicular to the beam—about two feet to the right of what is...

Here’s a picture of the stud joining the frame. Is this helpful?

Hello everyone, I’ve demolished three arches in my house. Two of them were created by a house remodel in the 1970s. They were small arches in a hallway. For context, my home was built in 1900 as a 1 story cottage. Someone built a 2/3 second story, with a 45° angle roof, which starts tapering...