Search results

my kitchen originally had 2 220v 3-wire feeds (6 GA), one 30A for an oven and a 50a for a counter mounted cooktop. the oven was replaced with a standard kitchen range (cooktop + oven), and the counter cooktop removed. so i have a 50A 220v circuit sitting there doing nothing (breaker open at...

thanks, we figured around october. it's at a friend's house, his wife wants it gone. gave them some rhodies last year. how far back can i trim it?

what time of year is best to cut back and transplant a boxwood plant? it's about 2' at the base and 6' at the top, about 3' tall.

hung the drywall and mudded the screws. then hung the door on the track and tacked up the door header. now it's just waiting for mud and texture. all the other drywall in the room has about 1/8" of mud on it, then the knockdown on top of that. that will come later...

since the pocket frame was about 4" taller than the opening, i had to cut it down. i left the rear frame about .5" long so that it would lock into the header rails i had to put the original side jambs back in to get spacing i needed to not see around the door and into the pocket...

so here's the steps i did for installing this: had to cut the carpet out down to the slab. the new carpet and pad was installed over the original carpet, which was glued to the concrete. then i leveled and hung the header/track assembly

that's the funny thing, the bits are fine, they just stopped.

it did it. 5 tries later. it wasn't the drill or the bits. must be a lot of rock in the slab. in clean concrete it did fine, even with the bits i thought were shot. thanks for the input. now on to the drywall...

:) yes, correct direction.

the first one was. then 2 other versions from different stores. they are for the 3/16 tapcon screws.

cool, thanks. a friend has a rotary hammer, i'll see if he can drop by. it's even worse than that. it's a 5/32 hole, not 5/16. i typo'd.

i'm trying to drill 2 2" deep 5/16" hole into my concrete slab. i've already gone thru 4 masonry bits and the hole is only about 1/4" deep. i get a little bit of concrete dust and then nothing. it just won't go any deeper. i've tried light pressure and heavy pressure. low speed and high...

removed the carpet down to the concrete. reinstalled the side jambs to get the spacing i needed. here's the progress so far: not too far off from the photoshop above. :banana: don't let anyone tell you that a 36" door won't fit in a 73.5" opening. i actually had to reinstall the side...

thanks. yep, the trim and jambs are already gone, that's just an old pic. basically i just wanted a confirmation that the pocket door would still work ok if it was shorter...

i have a 2 door wide closet door opening (was 2 bi-folds) that i would like to install a pocket door into to regain some wall. this is the existing opening (73 1/2" W x 80 3/4" H rough opening): and this is what i want to do: the problem is that according to the millwork guys at...

thanks guys.

it's a column, a post, not a beam. it's vertical, not horizontal...

i have a 24'x24' garage with a 6"x6" wood column right in the middle supporting a beam that crosses the garage. the beam is 3 2x12's laminated together (supports the upstairs wall). the wood column is cracking and is twisted. actually it was twisted when it went in as the little concrete...

SolaTubes have a special piece of tube that holds a light bulb. re-route the closet light wires and drop a wire for the switch. then when you turn on the light, it still comes from the diffuser...

great idea. that would look sweet held up with a few upholstery tacks. and you'd get the light reflected back down...