Welcome to the forum, NoverMYhead!
Insofast has been discussed many times.... here is info I posted elsewhere;
But why use such a product compared to rigid foam board sheeting.... unless it is way cheaper or a better insulator.... just too many design flaws, IMO:
"channels for the moisture"- appear to be 3/8"x3/8" cut every 3/4" apart on the back= 1-1/2" x 3/8' missing foam per foot. Double that for 2' wide= 3" x 0.375" = 1.125 sq.in. per 2' panel.
Every 2' is a wiring channel cut (missing foam/R-value again); 3/4" x 3/4" or 0.56 (1/2") x 1" deep ----- added to the back drains = total of 1-1/2" wide where the R-value is only R-4.45---- that is every 2' times a 30' wall = 1.5 x 15= 22.5" almost 2' of only R-4.4 rather than your R-9.8--- full 2" of thickness.
The channels also promote air movement dispersing any moisture vapor through the network of channels- wiring every 2' horizontally and every 16" vertically. Where foam board should be applied with a 1' square grid glue pattern- IMO, to limit air movement behind the foam board;
http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/743
http://www.dow.com/webapps/lit/litor...0.pdf&pdf=true
Few other comparisons;
Inso. -- R-4.45 per in vs. R-5 per inch XPS (true R-value, no thermal reduction by 50% at a portion of every 2' panel for drainage).
Inso.- 3.5 perms rating vs. 1.5 or 1.1 perms for others sited. Lower perms equal less water per hour coming through at a slower rate- 50% slower- easier for HVAC to handle. Inso. will have 3 times the volume of moisture coming through, that is the water that doesn't run down the drainage channels to puddle at the bottom plate if you missed a tiny gap under them with canned foam. Wait, no the directions only use glue on the backs in vertical lines to allow convective looping as sited above. No canned foam at the bottom/top to stop any basement air getting between the panel because of the glue bead holding it away from wall OR all the many channels in design to allow air/moisture to condense on cold concrete.
A good building inspector will catch the rated R-=4.45 per inch and product is 2" thick = R-9.8 not R-10 as most locals require- or more- what then- buy more Inso. and double wall? You count the rated R-value of "continuous" footnote "c" not the inside air film= 0.68 plus the 1/2"gypsum board = R-0.45 to get code minimums; and under new codes- min. for Zone 5, 6, 7, and 8 are now R-15- redesign......
http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic..._11_sec002.htm
Illinois adopted that 2012 code requiring R-15 below grade in basements;
https://www.energycodes.gov/sites/de...gy Codes.pdf
Always check locally for stricter rules with local AHJ.
Just use XPS, save money with a quality installation, product just seems inherent with design flaws to me;
http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...Lstiburek_2004
From
my answer, #10- here;
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/wall-moisture-126170/ See also the
link I supplied in #6.
Gary