Daryl in Nanoose
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2006
- Messages
- 779
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I don't know about you but I always jump backwards to get the hell out of the wayI myself am working on my own bath remodel and plan on doing something similar. I don't see a water pressure problem, but what I do see is a concern for safety on the longer shower. The valve is a long way away from where you will be standing, and if there is a disruption of cold water, the chance of scalding could occur. Make sure you use a modern anti-scalding valve.
Not to sure what you are talking about or meaning, only the shower valve is going on that wall not the drain. The only difference between this and a regular shower is where you turn it on and off and adjust the tempeture.It will work but why would you want to do it that way. All the dirt, soap scum and dead skin is going to not be able to be washed down the drain that way. The shower head will be spraying water past the dirtyest spot in the shower. Then to adjust the temperature you have to turn around to get to the knobs.
I kinda thought there was not a problem. I to thought about 3/4 supply but would have to tear up the whole basement to get to it. Right now theres 1/2" copper right over head. :Hey Daryl, :agree:
I do this all the time. 1/2 pex feeding the shower valve and then 1/2" going to the showerhead is fine. On second floor sometimes i will feed with 3/4" pex right up to valve just to be safe if I have a lot of rise from water meter and then tall house. I like your idea. My clients like being able to turn on the shower and not get wet with cold water.
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