How do I move this wall over 5 feet?

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farmerjohn1324

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If I ever want to make the kitchen bigger and move the wall 5 feet in the direction of the green arrow?

I would probably hire a contractor, but just so I know what to do so I don't get ripped off.

How do I make sure I'm not tearing down a load bearing wall or something that shouldn't be torn down?

I know there's all kinds of plumbing and electric stuff in the wall for sink and refridgerator line, and for outlets, oven, and garbage disposal. Also, the range hood vent leaves through one of the cabinets.

I put the blue and red marks just to show the same locations in different pictures.

I'm not asking for complete details, but just a general list of steps, then I could Google/YouTube it. I know how to build a wall.

XCamera-20171219_185650.jpg

XCamera-20171219_185608.jpg

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1219171903_HDR.jpg
 
The beam in the upper left corner would be bearng so the corner of the wall is holding that beam and could not be moved. You would have to check the attic for the structure but at first glance it looks like the rest could go.
 
nealtw said:
The beam in the upper left corner would be bearng so the corner of the wall is holding that beam and could not be moved. You would have to check the attic for the structure but at first glance it looks like the rest could go.
Click to expand...

The upper left of which picture?
 
Who ran the flex-a-duct hood vent?

Here's a method to determine if/which wall is load bering; If you have a basement with a center support beam and this wall occurs above above that beam, either parallel or perpendicular with the floor joists, it could be*load*bearing.

If your house is single story, in the attic, if the ceiling joists continue over it, end over it, are spliced over it, or you have roof bracing landing on it, It's a*bearing*wall. If the ceiling joist are parallel with the wall and you have roof bracing landing on it, It's a*bearing*wall.

If there is a 2nd floor above the wall, you have two options. You can remove a section of ceiling on both sides of the wall to determine if the 2nd floor, floor joists, cross it or end over it. If so, Its*load*bearing. Or you can use a stud finder to determine the location and direction of the joists.

Here is a link that should be of assistance; http://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standa...-WCD1-ConventionalWoodFrame-ViewOnly-0107.pdf

Illegitimas non-carborundum
 
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nealtw said:
Sorry I only looked at the first picture. No you will not remove the kitchen wall. The beam in the first picture tells you the whole wall is bearing.
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Not necessarily.

None of the photos determine anything more the what they are, doorway headers.
 
Engineering via a couple of pictures is always a challenge. I suspect the wall in the first picture is load bearing, but we can't tell from the pictures.
 
nealtw said:
You think it is just a door between dining and living room?
Click to expand...

The header is at doorway height and until the OP either goes into the attic or opens those ceilings, it's all speculation.
 
Ceiling joists that land on the wall or framing from the wall to the roof. Joists usually meet and over lap on the center wall. unless you have trusses and the picture will help with that.
 
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