Caulk or not, where soffit meets fascia?

Not too far ahead, the house is going to get painted with Duration...a sherwin williams product...which is meant to last for many years longer than other paints. Low maintenance is the goal and I decided, for better or worse, not to go to the expense of vinyl siding for the soffits. These soffits are 3 feet wide. They slant downward and aremade of plywood installed circa 1971.

I had two painters bid on the project. One said that he would caulk where the soffit boards meet the fascia that holds the gutter. Another said that he would remove whatever caulking is there and leave uncaulked. His rationale is that mositure can gather there and needs a place to get out. My thought is that if the new roof and new gutter are installed properly, and the ventilation is balanced...then caulking would be a better paint job....then again, maybe a waste of time.?????

Fwiw...i'm still bewildered (my middle name these days)...about how to economically replace the continuous 2-3 inch vents in the middle of these soffits. These old vents are just too covered with paint that only can be p scrapped by hand, and even then I'd bet that the net flow is 10 percent of the area....and what people may not know is that "new" vents only have 33% net flow. So, I repeat my inquiry from an earlier thread....Can these vents be ripped out and replaced without removing the soffit plywood, too? The handyman says "NO" and a general contractor wants $1400 for 150 feet of replacement with 3inch vents. That's about the cost of wrapping with vinyl.

Bill, for what its worth from a roofer, I would not recommend caulking the fascia to the roof deck. I always see an air space to allow moisture to dissipate.

An alternative to replacing your continuous sofit vent would be to install SV10 starter vent. This is basically a large drip edge that extends past the roof edge about 1-1/2". Under the edge of the drip edge is a perforated vent strip. We use this to retro fit houses that don't have a overhang or sofit area. We cut up the roof deck 1-1/2" and there you have air intake. To much intake is not a problem, you run into problems when you outstrip your intake with to much exhaust vent.

You can go to the Air Vent web site and see the SV10.

Air Vent: Vented Drip Edge Specifications

oldog/new trick,

I don't see sv10..?
Looks like a low pitch roof with a long overhang, like mine, would benefit since there's not that much clearance...more is better for intake, not out take, and the chance that i'm out of balance is pretty good with a new ridge vent and old soffit vents.

Bringing this up with the roofers...feels uncomfortable... i missed the opportunity to do an install when the roof was installed....would they not have to take out the drip edge that was just installed?.....and the gutter guard planned (Leaf Terminator) is an undertheshingle design...there may be a problem with this product covering up the vent?

In all, a good looking product. I wish I had seen it earlier.

I'm sorry SV10 is a Lomanco product, the one you linked to is identical. Starter vent takes the place of drip edge. It will not interfer with gutter helmets or covers. The important thing to remember when installing starter vent is not to roll over the shingles past the edge of the vent. Your existing drip edge would require removal.

I am not aware of a way to remove the continous soffitt vent with out removing the wood of the soffitt. If you decide to go with a fascia-soffit wrap make sure your siding installer removes the old vent, pulls down the existing soffitt wood and uses all vented vinyl soffit.

So Bill....what are you gonna do with your spare time when all your little projects are over?

oldog/new trick,

Just to be sure, VDE?....there's a new one listed too. And, yes, if I go siding...all the wood comes down. I tried to tell the contractor that after a bad previous roofing job I was going to be a demanding customer.

(I called Air Vent...rep likes the newer product where the drip edge does not come into play and they say is fine with a 3x12 roof.) Any thoughts on pros and cons of these two products?

Air Vent: Continuous Soffit Vents

I'm glad to have a resource to turn to, such as yourself, but my wife has to restrain me at the hardware store. I do ask a lot of questions. What can i say, I'm a little obsessive and then there are other times I'm down right neglectful. A balance would be nice. These days, I'm at the computer more than I would like. Sidelined with increasing physical issues. I used to be quite active, until I retired. Next month I will be considering scoping both shoulders for bone spurs. Is there a forum for bodyrepair?

What I would like to do is to get back in my 18ft kayak, build a greenhouse, raise chickens, and to pull my wife away from caring for her mom so we can take frequent road trips from Louisville to my hometown/new orleans. Hey, we would pass thru nashille. I used to live there...on Parthenon avenue. A little duplex that I bet has been torn down.

Bill I have seen that vent before and we use a very similar product called Smart Vent. The thing I don't like about it is that on lower sloped roof it ski ramps the edge of the first course. It definitely has its place. SV10 lays flat to the roof deck. You can use the Continuous Vent/Smart Vent to ventilate head wall(exhaust) where you don't have a ridge, a sloped roof that runs into a wall.

Louisville, yes I know how to pronounce it, is a great town. Loved working up there during Derby week (not roofing, previous life). Can't help with the shoulders but wish you luck.

oldog/new trick,
I went to the site:
Lomanco Product Lines
I having trouble picturing this. Does it over hang the gutter?
Are you saying that this product would be appropriate for 3/12 roof?

I called back the other company...air vent...not consumer friendly at all...denied any issues with lower slope roof asyou point..when asked about the traditional continuous vent..."she" said that they lay in the soffit without being screwed down..."that's what the flanges are for"...Is this crazy...saying that this is the way that they are installed?

The Derby is a big deal here....and no doubt something more and more important to the local economy.

Closed soffits on a rake, with a long overhang? I would cut the soffit ply (rip) next to the fascia board about wide enough for the new continuous vent and a trim board that butts the ply cut edge. That is optimum location for the inlet supply, under the over-hang (away from the rain and splash) and near the fascia board: Audel Complete Building Construction - Google Books

Why replace a new drip edge on top when you have such a prime location underneath? And it is in-operative anyway, which you have to plug otherwise.
The new continuous vent are rated at an optimum 9sq.in. per foot, if you do the math, this works out to fit the majority of attics splitting 50/50% inlet and exhaust. If it was any bigger you would meet the balance sooner, and not vent some areas of rafters any. Be safe, G